I just would like to know some of your feeling about Nitrous Oxide and the vette. Do some of you guys have it/would you get it? Why

 

Why........hmmmmmm....MORE POWER. I love my setup. :lol:

 

i ordered mine last week....now i just have to get it installed :D

 

There is a lot of competition these days in the market which has produced better quality sytems from NOS, TNT and NX. Also, the PCM is so good that it can easily figure out the right A/F ratio without too much tuning. There are many new safety devices available these days as well that greatly lower the chance of a delivery malfunction.

To the point, the LS1/6 loves the stuff and the only damage I've seen was due to greed..i.e. up-jetting too far for the fuel system capabilities.

When I last made some n2o pass at HRP back in '99 I was running consistent high 11's @ 123+ with only a couple bolt-ons on the original EMT's. Me likey :D

 

C5Cemo is absolutely right. Get an MAFT with the nitrous setup of your choice and richen up your WOT O2's and you're good to go. Nitrous is AWESOME. I'm going to get 30 lb/hr SVO's and bump up the shot to around a 150-175 but with careful autotap watches :D. It's great!

 

My system is coming this week. I did not get an MSD window switch....can someone tell me how it works? Do I need it? Is there a better way or a work around....the person I talked to said I do not need this? :confused:

 

MSD window switch only allows N20 system to spray at certain RPM's.
Prevents N20 from spraying at to low or high RPM. Good safety to have :cool:
Mine set at 3000 RPM to 6000 RPM.
Nitrous is great, you only use it when you need it:cheers:

 

Jeff, The window switch (I recomend the Mallory because you can set any rpm with the turn of the ****), Is a engine rpm on-off switch. If you have a six speed, you really need it because one missed shift or one late shift and you will hit the rev limiter which will shut off the injectors but the nitrous is still flowing resulting in a very bad situation (lots of nitrous and very little fuel) engine can be ruined very quickly. With an A4, as long as you leave the shifter in D or 3, you should shift up, and never hit the limiter. There are other considerations however. Nitrous should never be engaged below 2,500 rpm and (3,000 rpm is safer) and now especially with the A4 the nitrous "turn on" is automatic to the rpm you preset. Also with the A4 to preserve the life of the tranny, the nitrous off rpm can be set at just below the shift rpm so the nitrous will shut off just before the shift. After the shift, nitrous will again engage. You will need a bottle heater. And then the big decision of what kit to get and the decision to go WET or DRY. wet is good if you want a really big shot, like over 150 horsepower, but I don't know where you are going to find the traction to use all that power. You WILL need drag radials and an expensive ($500) progressive nitrous controller. Personally I do not like a wet system. Too much to go wrong. If the fuel solenoid does not open, very bad. If it gets stuck open, not as bad, but not good. With the wet you want a good supply of nitrous at all times, this means good pressure, a hot, mostly full bottle. With the dry system, there is no fuel being added with a fuel solenoid and nozzel. The nitrous is triggered by two solenoils hooked up in series. This way if one fails open, at lease the other will close off the nitrous (again this would be too much nitrous and too little fuel, the worst case), and this holds true for either wet or dry. Dry is simple. Bottle, line, two solenoids, nozzel or nozzels. With the dry, the nitrous sprays before the MAF, and the computer adds the extra fuel evenly through all eight injectors ( not extra fuel dumped into a manifold with sharp bends, not designed for fuel-"as in a wet shot"). Also with a dry shot, if your nitrous pressure starts dropping off because you are running the bottle low, no problem (on a wet shot the car will go very rich and load up) just keep shooting if you like, the MAF will add a little more or a little less instantly. Well there you go. Good luck.

 

All of the information really helps.

 

Not me, I am old fashion.

 

I'm with Al on that one. NA is fine for me.

 

Another thing to remember that is very important! Use only conventional non-projected tip sparkplugs. Stock projected tip plugs will get too hot and the ground strap will glow red hot, eventually leading to detonation. Also, avoid platinum plugs for the same reason.

This is very important!

 

I am a fan of N20. About a year ago, my buddy had an NX kit on his 98 SS Camaro. He needed some cash and the system was only on the car for a month so I took it off his hands. Now in doing some research, it is the exact same part number that fits on the Z06. I am having a really hard time refraining from installing it on the Z. hahaha This kit is complete. He had two bottles, one had never been installed. Dual purge, filters, gages, bottle heater, and all.

I need more will power. hahaha :smash:

 

Norman, if I was in your shoes, the only dilema wuold be which car to install it on. Viper or Z06? Vipers have been known to run in the 10's on the bottle alone!

 

HEY!!, you aren't helping me any? hahaha :smash: :smash: :D

 

I dont know about u, but i like it wet.

Chan :cheers:

 

yeah and what a dilema...Viper I would say

Now I got to see what Norman does for a living...


[Modified by JeffsVette, 7:37 PM 1/1/2002]

 

Most of my friends say that I don't do much. I guess they are somewhat right. Besides being a gigalo, I own and operate and insurance office. :D

 

Dito C5Noir:
I have the MAFT as well, and I love the NX kit I have. I seriously would not want to be without it. I have a lot of fun with the set up. Total control with the "maximizer". I am blasting away my competition. I can just see everyones faces when race on the new drag set up (tires & wheels) from CCW. Considering, on a good day, my best 60' times are like 1.870. Not exciting! The new set up will allow me to reduce this to a possible 1.650. I should be taking off .30 - .40 seconds on my final E/T's. I know will be looking at the low 11's next outing! I say you can't beat that for performance. And the $1700 for the system is easier than $8,000 for internal work. Plus, I am still faster anyway over H & C.
I can blow away just about anyone now...and with the roll bar that was installed just last week, Carlsbad wont kick me off of the track anymore.
My ultimate goal is within reach: ......The 10"s .....

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

:)


[Modified by bruce1, 4:23 PM 1/1/2002]

 

No doubt about it, nitrous is the most cost effective way to go fast. With my ZR-1 and nothing more than a NOS kit and a set of BFG DR's I recently ran a 7.49 @ 94.6mph in the 1/8th mile. That will make for a mid eleven second 1/4. Too bad our 1/4 mile track is 50 miles away. That's a long drive for one run.