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ive done enought brake jobs to be comfortable on just about any vehicle. however yesterday i came across something ive never seen. the vehicle is a 01 chrysler 300m. the brakes are completely shot. no brake pads. all rotors are destroyed. i pulled front passenger side tire, opened to brake fluid resovoir, removed what was left of the pad and tried to depress the piston. piston would not budge. put a c-clamp on it and it still would not move. any ideas or suggestions.
I don't have a manual for a Chrysler, but some pistons take a special tool to rotate the piston to get it back into the bore instead of just being able to push them in.
Also, you might want to crack the bleeder screw to push the fluid out instead of pushing old fluid back into the system.
Is the piston face smooth, or does it have a face that looks like a tool would fit?
Only time I have seen the twisting pistons is on the rear calipers when the e-brake is integrated. Piston is probably just too far extended and off it's axis put a straight edge across it and see if it's square in the bore.
Only time I have seen the twisting pistons is on the rear calipers when the e-brake is integrated. Piston is probably just too far extended and off it's axis put a straight edge across it and see if it's square in the bore.
I've seen cars with all 4 calipers requiring the "special tool" ..... You can get the tool at almost any auto supply shop ... most carry a "universal tool" ... it goes on the end of your ratchet drive .... it is a cube with each face having a square hole in it for the drive and then each face has the appropriate pins or prongs to interface with the different types of pistons.
But, BlownBlue may well be correct, the piston may be out of square and is jammed in the caliper. If it is you can use brake pressure to "pop" it out .... BUT .... be very careful, the piston will come out with incredible force ..... have some shop towels in place to try and slow it/catch it as it comes out of the bore.
If you are going to try to push the piston out with hydraulic pressure, I would put a block of wood or some kind of spacer in the caliper so that the piston can move, but cannot blow all the way out.
If you are going to try to push the piston out with hydraulic pressure, I would put a block of wood or some kind of spacer in the caliper so that the piston can move, but cannot blow all the way out.
The block of wood is a better suggestion than my original "use shop towels" ....
Sounds like it is time for 4 rebuilt calipers. Once you figure in the cost of parts required to rebuild the calipers you might as well save yourself some headaches and buy rebuilt calipers. Let the rebuild company figure out how to free up the piston in the old calipers.
From: Marlton. Increasing performance one speeding ticket at a time! NJ
Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn
Sounds like it is time for 4 rebuilt calipers. Once you figure in the cost of parts required to rebuild the calipers you might as well save yourself some headaches and buy rebuilt calipers. Let the rebuild company figure out how to free up the piston in the old calipers.
Bill
Completely.
Don't waste your time. Whenever I see a caliper with a piston problem, I don't care how it happened or how to fix it. I just replace the caliper. Brakes are the single most important safety feature on a car........why screw around with potential bad parts?
I agree with above - scrap it all, get new rotors, pads, calipers, and bleed the brakes - hopefully the lines are still good, and not collapsed internally. If they have the money, I'd personally replace the front lines at the same time - gotta bleed them anyway, and it's not that expensive for new lines up front. The whoa is more important than the go.
thanks for everyones input. rebuilt calipers are CHEAP for his car. thats the route im going. i believe the pistons were overextended and no longer perfectly lined up. but also good point that the caliper was taking alot of heat due to the no brake pad condition. rebuilds all around.