Changing Rotors
Drifting
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,908
Likes: 0
From: Manassas, VA, USA
Re: Changing Rotors (Speeder)
Amen on the tight rear caliper bolts. Also, the rear rotors are sometimes tricky to get off because of the parking brake inside the "hat" part of the rotor. Make sure the p-brake is off, and be prepared to turn-pull-turn until you find the "sweet spot" (or more likely the least sour spot) that will allow you to pull the rust ridge on the inside of the rotor over the brake shoes.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 50,808
Likes: 9
From: Buy USA products! Check the label! Employ Americans
Re: Changing Rotors (lyonsh)
Make sure you can get the car up high enough to get a big breaker bar at the caliper bracket bolts. One side is worse due to the rotation of the bolt and bar. I thought it was 175 ft lb. Get some red locktite for the all the bolts. Check to make sure all tie rod ends are tight and ball joints as I had one back off and ruin A arm. When youget the caliper lose hang them with a small bunge to keep pressure from hanging of the hoses. Go easy on removing rear rotors as said above or it's very trying to say the least to get them back together. Take your time is not a hard job if you have some brake experience or team up with someone who knows. You may want to access to adsto do tem at the same time depending on miles or change brake fluid depending how hard you run the braking system. If you want my cell let me know. Sockets 15 mm & 22 or 21 I forget but could look when I go home. 16 mm wrench to keep guide pin from turning. Small wire brush to remove old loctite. I do it so often from running track events I literally do it in almost darkness. I keep a seperate set of tools just to do this job. Get the torque spec's I forgot the calper bolts as I just do it by feel.
[Modified by John Shiels, 8:31 AM 1/3/2002]
[Modified by John Shiels, 8:31 AM 1/3/2002]
