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I am going to have my oil changed for the first time at the local Mobil Lube. I have used them in the past for my SVT Lightning. Is there anything that I should tell them or be aware of? I plan to use Mobil 1 5W30.
First of all, I would seriously consider changing my own. You're in Florida, right? So there's no cold or inclement weather to keep you from rolling out the old Rhino ramps and getting down to the joys of a self-service oil change.
Those Jiffy Lube cats are gonna hit you up for what? $50 to $60 bones for an oil/filter swap? Yeah, but who makes the filter? What quality is it? Are those wage slave tweaks in the service bay gonna take the good 20 minutes or so to let ALL the old, dirty oil seep out of your baby's crankcase? And just listen to them as they run the old, "uh, looks like you need a new oil pan bolt, sir, yours is leaking," routine.
And, if all this doesn't scare the bejeezus outta you, consider this. That oil they're gonna put in your Vette might be coming out of some huge, bulk container that's been exposed to dust, dirt, mouse dookie and other godawful contaminants. Do you really want that crap pulsing through your precious LS-1's engine? Not me!
I guarantee you can do it yourself for around $30 bones or less by purchasing the 5-quart convenience jug of Mobil One 5W-30 and an AC/Delco filter at your local Wal-Mart! You can take your time, do the job right and experience the priceless peace of mind that comes from knowing you did right by your baby. If you need help, we got your back on the Forum, dude.
Still, if you just gotta go the instant oil change route, buy your OWN oil and filter first, even if you have to pay that bogus "customer supplied parts" surcharge. It's the automotive equivalent of movie theatre popcorns sans the butter true, but it's the next best thing to changing your own oil/filter. Good luck!
I originally said Jiffy Lube, meaning Mobil Lube (I edited the original post). They have Mobil 1 in separate containers for each quart, and also carry Mobile 1 filters. I changed my own oil for years, but just don't have time any more, and am looking for a quick, but efficient means. I just want to make sure I cover all of the bases.
Just remember that you have an aluminum oil pan down there and it doesn't take much to over-torque the bolt. The oil change jockeys at the jiffy-quick probably aren't used to that and could easily damage your pan. That, my friend, would end up being an expensive (if not emabarrasing) trip to the dealer.
Given what you said earlier you MIGHT be ok. But I still don't trust `em further than I can thrown 'em. You can't expect them to take the time to drain ALL the oil out of your crankcase or even ensure that they HAND tighten the oil filter or even remember to REPLACE the filler cap.
Also, don't let them run the old, "you need a new oil pan bolt" scam on you for upsale. It sounds trivial, but trust me. I've seen some of these IOC cats screw up the basics things pretty badly. In short, you'll likely get your oil changed relatively "fast," it that's all you want, but it's the competency thing that would bother me.
If you're still determined to do through with it and provided it'll be cheaper than the customer surcharge, I'd still purchase my own Mobil One oil and filter from my local auto parts store. I know that'll be cheaper than Jiffy Lube's cost per unit. And no one ever gets tired of saving money, right? ;)
yeah I have heard a lot of really bad things about these Quick Lube joints - Like the time when they topped off my buddies Z's Brake fluid with Transmission fluid.....you could only imagine! :U
Skydive,
A friend used a Mobil 1 oil change close by. We both watched them do the oil change. No problems. They work similarly to Jiffy Lube, where they they don't jack up your car.
As I said, I went to watch them do the work and everything went smoothly.
Mobil 1 charges around $55 vs almost $80 at the dealer.
I will say that no one is going to work on our beauties with the TLC that we provide them.
You may not want to hear it but no one will treat your car as well as you will! With the Rhino ramps, it's a 60 minute drill the first time (to go slow and double-check everything), then a 20 minute drill after that.
Is it really saving time to wait in line with the soccer moms, then have to refuse all of their 'add-on' services they always push?
If you do decide to go, make sure they wait 2-3 minutes after adding the oil before starting the car or checking the level. It takes a while for the oil to make it down to the crackcase.
Why in the world would you even think about doing that? Not to mention what everyone here has already mentioned, but what about jacking the car up? What type of lift would they be using or do they have a pit? Are they going to really raise the rear end a few inches to make sure all of the oil drains out? Come on, do it yourself and enjoy it along with the satisfaction of knowing the job is done right. You paid alot of money for that car, it deserves better!
Don't forget you should always fill the new oil filter before installing it ! and the I am sure the kids at the quick change or the dealer will leave out this step.
At least bring a couple of 2 X 8 boards to get your rear end up a little to drain more old oil out. Watch them closely when they screw plugs back in. If you've got an MN6, make sure they don't top it up with a little 90 weight. If the brake master cylinder is down a little, I wouldn't trust their supply can that's been sitting around with the lid off picking up moisture. :smash: