When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I had a 4-wheel alignment done in conjunction with new tires being installed this weekend. To show what a great job they did , the dealer provided me a print out of the data from their alignment system showing what the final numbers were after the alignment. The problem is, it appears many of the parameters are out of the specified range, at least according to the print out. Unfortunately, I'm at work right now, so I can't upload an image of the entire document, but for instance:
For the "Thrust Angle", it shows:
"Actual" of 0.13 degrees
"Specified" of -0.10 degrees
"Range" of 0.10 degrees
Now obviously, if nominal is "negative" 0.10 degrees and the actual was "positive" 0.13 degrees, that is out of tolerance.
I'd like to have some answers in my pocket before I call the dealer about this one. Any technicians out there that can help?
Hey Pete, last time I had an alignment done, my data sheet had several sets of numbers, including "before" and "after" measurements. Any chance you have something similar?
I would be most concerned about too much negative camber, and the toe-in setting. What were those numbers?
Be aware that, the camber can be "within factory specs", and still be too aggressive for street driving and acceptable tire wear.
Much more than about -1/8 degree on the front, and you will see inside tire wear.
Hey Pete, last time I had an alignment done, my data sheet had several sets of numbers, including "before" and "after" measurements. Any chance you have something similar?
Sort of. There is an "Actual" and a "Before" column, but conveniently enough, there is no data at all in the "Before" column.
IMO, I wouldn't pay for an alignment unless I saw before and after #s. How do you know they did anything at all?
Why is the LR toed out and the RR toed in? (Or is that vice-versa?) In any event, that doesn't look right to me. The range is the same for both, and they are WAY off.
IMO, I wouldn't pay for an alignment unless I saw before and after #s. How do you know they did anything at all?
Why is the LR toed out and the RR toed in? (Or is that vice-versa?) In any event, that doesn't look right to me. The range is the same for both, and they are WAY off.
Well, the reason I did it was uneven wear on the original (I think; unless the previous owner changed them) run-flats.
I'm hoping that the data is the "as-found" numbers. The guy that does the alignments was off today, so I couldn't get an answer.