I broke in my forged motor on Rotella 10W-40...
LS6 build-- N/A Piston ring gaps?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 781
Likes: 0
LS6 build-- N/A Piston ring gaps?
I just noticed Diamond sent me the wrong rings for my pistons. I haven't had much luck finding 1.5mm, 1.5mm, 3mm rings from the usual sources (other than MAHLE, not ruling them out). Who else makes nice, affordable, metric rings for LS1s. They shouldn't be this hard to find, should they?
Prefer a file fit set, so I can set my own gaps.
Since these LS1/6 engines have pumping issues, who has had good luck going with the TIGHTER (narrower gap) side of spec?
2001 LS6, 347ci, stock crank.
3.905" Diamond 2v relief flattop pistons (#11502)
6.125" forged rods, full floating .927" pins.
Minimal block and head decking, staying around stock (10.4-10.6) compression.
Stock LS6 heads, mild hand porting, some combustion chamber clean-up/hand polishing.
2002 GM MLS headgaskets (.040"-ish?).
95% streetcar, daily driver, long highway trips.
Naturally aspirated, 89-92 octane pump gas. No nitrous, don't even start in on that shyt.
Should be around 450rwhp, good to 7,000 RPM.
So, what are you N/A guys using for TOP and 2ND ring GAPS?
Thanks, Joel.
Prefer a file fit set, so I can set my own gaps.
Since these LS1/6 engines have pumping issues, who has had good luck going with the TIGHTER (narrower gap) side of spec?
2001 LS6, 347ci, stock crank.
3.905" Diamond 2v relief flattop pistons (#11502)
6.125" forged rods, full floating .927" pins.
Minimal block and head decking, staying around stock (10.4-10.6) compression.
Stock LS6 heads, mild hand porting, some combustion chamber clean-up/hand polishing.
2002 GM MLS headgaskets (.040"-ish?).
95% streetcar, daily driver, long highway trips.
Naturally aspirated, 89-92 octane pump gas. No nitrous, don't even start in on that shyt.
Should be around 450rwhp, good to 7,000 RPM.
So, what are you N/A guys using for TOP and 2ND ring GAPS?
Thanks, Joel.
Last edited by 500hp; Sep 1, 2008 at 07:19 PM.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 279
Likes: 27
From: Dearborn mi
you should be ok around .015-.017 of an inch gap. make shure u offset ring gaps correctley start with your top ring away from the thrust side of the cylinder wall plus only deburr your rings with a fine stone. the blow by issues are usally more to do with cylinder surface finish do you know what the surface finish is? the factory used a platue stone finish witch actully left a glased like finish for long life. it would not be a bad idea to use a high zinc break in oil too NO MATTER WHAT NO SYNTHITC OIL UNTILL BROKE IN. good luck
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 781
Likes: 0
I had TPIS hone the block with torque plates. Finish looks good for break-in.
Yeah, it had 116,000 miles on it when I took it apart. Except for the glazing, the bores looked like new. Piston skirts didn't have a mark on them.
I am all about using Zinc/Phosphate infused oil for start-up and breaking in. I'm concerned that most oils have been dropping these additives, though.
Who still puts Zinc in their oil? Diesel or European blends only?
I've heard of some trick, non-synthetic racing oils, but they sound like they may be a little too heavy for a tight/new street engine.
This was next on my list to research...
Any recommendations?
Yeah, it had 116,000 miles on it when I took it apart. Except for the glazing, the bores looked like new. Piston skirts didn't have a mark on them.
I am all about using Zinc/Phosphate infused oil for start-up and breaking in. I'm concerned that most oils have been dropping these additives, though.
Who still puts Zinc in their oil? Diesel or European blends only?
I've heard of some trick, non-synthetic racing oils, but they sound like they may be a little too heavy for a tight/new street engine.
This was next on my list to research...
Any recommendations?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 5,970
Likes: 20
From: San Marcos Texas
I like .018 top and .022 2nd for a nice NA setup with good compression..Keeps you safe if you want to do a weekend driver track event.. For comparison I used .028 and .032 on my boosted motor..
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 7,604
Likes: 8
From: Belleville Il
Back when I built my old Big Block flat tappet motor Com Cams recommended Shell Diesel (Dello or something like that) Being a flat tappet cam I run some kind of diesel oil all the time,,so far so good. I say a zinc phosphate oil certainly can't hurt for initial break in(this could set off a debate)
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 781
Likes: 0
Yeah, Rotella was going to be my 'back-up' if the day came for start up and I hadn't found anything else.
I am wondering, though, if Shell (and others) has been dropping the Zinc content from their diesel oils, as well.
Stricter EPA rules and emissions concerns, and such?
I am wondering, though, if Shell (and others) has been dropping the Zinc content from their diesel oils, as well.
Stricter EPA rules and emissions concerns, and such?
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,924
Likes: 78
From: Forney Texas
You can always just buy some additive for it. STP is and pyroil is supposed to be real high in ZDDP & ZDTP.
