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Also, in one thread, someone said they snapped the rear lower shock bolt when attempting to torque to 162ft-lb. I'm no expert, but man that seems like a helluva lot of torque! Is this accurate, I would think 75-100 would do the trick? Do you have to replace these bolts when replacing the shocks?
Also, in one thread, someone said they snapped the rear lower shock bolt when attempting to torque to 162ft-lb. I'm no expert, but man that seems like a helluva lot of torque! Is this accurate, I would think 75-100 would do the trick? Do you have to replace these bolts when replacing the shocks?
Thanks a ton.
al
I used the second of the two links you posted as a guide, and it worked out well. The biggest PITA I found was getting to the top nuts on the front shocks, which is tougher with the Bilsteins I was installing. I reused the lower bolts upon the recommendations of others here and torqued to 140ft/lbs, mostly because my wrench only goes to 150. The spec does seem excessive, but I'm not an engineer. Good luck
The one on c5forum looks about like I did it. I didn't remove the washer tank though. Also, it's a LOT easier if you collapse the shock and hold it with some zip ties or something (I used motorcycle tie downs) when you're putting the new ones in (front). Otherwise it's kind of a game on how to get them in there.
No, I didn't torque to any 162 ft lbs. If I remember it was more like 90 ish. I'd have to look at my book which I don't have with me.
I have never had to remove a ball joint or the windshield washer reservoir to replace shocks.
The rear lower mounts do specify 162 ftlbs., I just set my torque wrench to 150 (the max) and leave it at that.
I use a piece of stout coat-hanger wire fashioned into a hook on each end so that I can compress the shock, latch the wire onto the shock to keep it compressed, and then pull it out.
On the front shocks, the shaft that protrudes up is flatted, and you can get a wrench on it so that you do not need to get to the torx end of the shock to remove it.
I torqued my lower bolt to 162 lbs, then I bandaged my broken knuckle a replaced the broken bolt with a new one.
(Which I did not attempt to torque to 162 lb)
I torqued my lower bolt to 162 lbs, then I bandaged my broken knuckle a replaced the broken bolt with a new one.
(Which I did not attempt to torque to 162 lb)
I used the fuzzy dice instructions and they made the job easy. The zip tie idea works great. I also didn't understand the 162 lb. spec on the rear but I got as close as possible anyway. I had no problem re-using the original bolts. I installed Bilsteins, so for the front shocks I cut down an Allen wrench to fit in the top of the shock, that way I didn't have to remove the tanks in the engine compartment.
I installed Bilsteins, so for the front shocks I cut down an Allen wrench to fit in the top of the shock, that way I didn't have to remove the tanks in the engine compartment.
That was a good idea. I happened to have a bit in that correct Allen head size, which I held with vice grips to get things tight. Definitely saved time not having to pull the reservoirs.
That was a good idea. I happened to have a bit in that correct Allen head size, which I held with vice grips to get things tight. Definitely saved time not having to pull the reservoirs.
Why do you need to fabricate special tools and remove the tanks???
I used the fuzzy dice instructions and they made the job easy. The zip tie idea works great. I also didn't understand the 162 lb. spec on the rear but I got as close as possible