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Shocks Install Help...

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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 02:27 PM
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Default Shocks Install Help...

Guys,

Searched some prior threads on this topic and have some questions.

This will be my first time doing this and want to see if anyone used these sites as guides:

http://www.c5forum.com/diy/shocks.php
http://fuzzydiceracing.com/test.htm

Are the steps accurate?

Also, in one thread, someone said they snapped the rear lower shock bolt when attempting to torque to 162ft-lb. I'm no expert, but man that seems like a helluva lot of torque! Is this accurate, I would think 75-100 would do the trick? Do you have to replace these bolts when replacing the shocks?

Thanks a ton.
al
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ALVETTE00
Guys,

Searched some prior threads on this topic and have some questions.

This will be my first time doing this and want to see if anyone used these sites as guides:

http://www.c5forum.com/diy/shocks.php
http://fuzzydiceracing.com/test.htm

Are the steps accurate?

Also, in one thread, someone said they snapped the rear lower shock bolt when attempting to torque to 162ft-lb. I'm no expert, but man that seems like a helluva lot of torque! Is this accurate, I would think 75-100 would do the trick? Do you have to replace these bolts when replacing the shocks?

Thanks a ton.
al
I used the second of the two links you posted as a guide, and it worked out well. The biggest PITA I found was getting to the top nuts on the front shocks, which is tougher with the Bilsteins I was installing. I reused the lower bolts upon the recommendations of others here and torqued to 140ft/lbs, mostly because my wrench only goes to 150. The spec does seem excessive, but I'm not an engineer. Good luck
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 02:42 PM
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The one on c5forum looks about like I did it. I didn't remove the washer tank though. Also, it's a LOT easier if you collapse the shock and hold it with some zip ties or something (I used motorcycle tie downs) when you're putting the new ones in (front). Otherwise it's kind of a game on how to get them in there.
No, I didn't torque to any 162 ft lbs. If I remember it was more like 90 ish. I'd have to look at my book which I don't have with me.
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 02:43 PM
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Hi ALVETTE00 -

I have never had to remove a ball joint or the windshield washer reservoir to replace shocks.

The rear lower mounts do specify 162 ftlbs., I just set my torque wrench to 150 (the max) and leave it at that.

I use a piece of stout coat-hanger wire fashioned into a hook on each end so that I can compress the shock, latch the wire onto the shock to keep it compressed, and then pull it out.

On the front shocks, the shaft that protrudes up is flatted, and you can get a wrench on it so that you do not need to get to the torx end of the shock to remove it.

Shocks are a pretty easy job on the C5.

best regards -

mqqn

Last edited by mqqn; Sep 3, 2008 at 02:59 PM.
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 03:00 PM
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I torqued my lower bolt to 162 lbs, then I bandaged my broken knuckle a replaced the broken bolt with a new one.
(Which I did not attempt to torque to 162 lb)
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Last C5
I torqued my lower bolt to 162 lbs, then I bandaged my broken knuckle a replaced the broken bolt with a new one.
(Which I did not attempt to torque to 162 lb)
OUCH

So what did you torque the new one to?

Thanks
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 04:22 PM
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I just used a 1/2" air gun to torque that rear shock nut back on. No worries....
162 ft/lbs? yea who wrote that spec the janitor on his lunch break?

Last edited by briann510; Sep 3, 2008 at 04:25 PM.
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 12:52 AM
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I used the fuzzy dice instructions and they made the job easy. The zip tie idea works great. I also didn't understand the 162 lb. spec on the rear but I got as close as possible anyway. I had no problem re-using the original bolts. I installed Bilsteins, so for the front shocks I cut down an Allen wrench to fit in the top of the shock, that way I didn't have to remove the tanks in the engine compartment.
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by striper
I installed Bilsteins, so for the front shocks I cut down an Allen wrench to fit in the top of the shock, that way I didn't have to remove the tanks in the engine compartment.
That was a good idea. I happened to have a bit in that correct Allen head size, which I held with vice grips to get things tight. Definitely saved time not having to pull the reservoirs.
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by B-ras
That was a good idea. I happened to have a bit in that correct Allen head size, which I held with vice grips to get things tight. Definitely saved time not having to pull the reservoirs.
Why do you need to fabricate special tools and remove the tanks???



Is that a Bilstein thing only?
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by striper
I used the fuzzy dice instructions and they made the job easy. The zip tie idea works great. I also didn't understand the 162 lb. spec on the rear but I got as close as possible
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