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Won't start -electrical

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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 05:53 PM
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Default Won't start -electrical

Car won't start ... '97 A4

turn key, gauges, radio, lights, etc come on, but no starter click

battery voltage 12.4 (checked with meter, not gauges) removed cables and cleaned/retightened.

tried different key

pulled inside fuse panel cover and can hear a little click when trying to start, but no click like the starter selenoid

Ideas?
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by floridarob
Car won't start ... '97 A4

turn key, gauges, radio, lights, etc come on, but no starter click

battery voltage 12.4 (checked with meter, not gauges) removed cables and cleaned/retightened.

tried different key

pulled inside fuse panel cover and can hear a little click when trying to start, but no click like the starter selenoid

Ideas?
Try jumping it..
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 06:13 PM
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tried with charger on in "boost" position ... nada
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by floridarob
tried with charger on in "boost" position ... nada
I've never had good luck with my charger in the boost position either. I'd go old school with jumper cables. Note, sometimes a bad battery won't take a jump either.
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 07:37 PM
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I'll try getting it out of the garage for a jump...

Hmmm...noticed I'm getting 12.4 v with a digital multimeter outside on the battery but the gauge inside shows 11.2v ...
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by floridarob
I'll try getting it out of the garage for a jump...

Hmmm...noticed I'm getting 12.4 v with a digital multimeter outside on the battery but the gauge inside shows 11.2v ...
Not unusual.
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 09:05 PM
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Sons coming over in AM to try giving me a jump. Been looking through threads on here about battery voltage and some of the problems people have had with seemingly ok batteries, to where I'm thinking i might pull it and run it up to the garage for a load test. Only a couple months old, but I've had bad ones out of the box before.

No current codes, but there is a BCM 2773H history one there for the pass key circuit.

Actually, I've had a couple anomolies that could be low voltage attributed I think, had to reset the a/c system doors not long ago and a couple times a few months ago had the whole system freakout on startup with TC -check engine- reduced power etc., that went away upon shutting down and restarting. As I write this I'm beginning to get suspicious of the ignition switch as well.

Any thoughts?
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 10:38 PM
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Is the security light flashing?
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 11:03 PM
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The security light has always been a little wonky on this car. It isn't flashing now but sometimes it does come on and then be off the next time the car starts. Haven't been able to pin down anything with it because it's sporadic and can't find a common denominator when it happens. Its been that way for six or seven years and I've come to not pay much attention to it. The vette shop I've gone to for years thought it might have something to do with the aftermarket alarm system (alpine) but basically said to wait for something else to manifest itself before tearing into it, as everything else has always worked fine.

Sidenote: I've been going over old threads on this forum about electrical problems and batteries and such, and damn there's a lot of useful info there.

Last edited by floridarob; Sep 11, 2008 at 11:05 PM.
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 11:10 PM
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Default Car Won't Crank

Hi, there are a few possibilities for a no crank situation. 12.4v at the terminals is sufficient to start the car, so the breakdown is likely somewhere else. You say you tried a different key, so I'll assume the key is not it, but make sure the pellet is clean,(with a bit of alcholol), and try again.
1, Load test the battery.
2, Confirm clean and tight cables at the battery, you say you did that already.
3, Confirm Clean and tight cable connection on the starter lug, (very important as many have found that they have loosened up).
4, Confirm clean and tight connection to the engine,(ground).
5, Confirm Clean and tight connection to the underhood fuse block
If none of that is the problem, you have to start checking other components like ig switch, starter & solenoid, tdr, star grounds and such.
Below is an explanation and diagnostic to help you.
Good Luck
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The cranking circuit consists of the following components, all of which are connected electrically:

The battery
The starter motor
The theft deterrent system
The body control module (BCM)
The clutch or park neutral switches
The control circuits
The ignition switch

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Starter Solenoid Does Not Click
Starter solenoid does not click Step
Action
Value(s)
Yes
No

DEFINITION: Engine does not crank, starter solenoid does not click

1
Disconnect the theft deterrent relay.
Attach a test light between the theft deterrent relay terminal A and B+.
While observing the test light, turn the ignition switch to START.
Does the test light illuminate?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Theft Deterrent Diagnostic System Check

2
Connect a test light between the theft deterrent relay terminal C1 and ground.
While observing the test light, turn the ignition switch to START.
Does the test light illuminate?
--
Go to Step 3
Go to Step 11

3
Connect a test light between the theft deterrent relay terminal C2 and ground.
While observing the test light, turn the ignition switch to START.
Does the test light illuminate?
--
Go to Step 5
Go to Step 4

4
Is the vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission?
--
Go to Step 10
Go to Step 9

5
Is the vehicle equipped with a manual transmission?
--
Go to Step 6
Go to Step 12

6
With the fused jumper still connected, connect a test light from the starter solenoid terminal S to ground.
Shift the transmission into PARK or NEUTRAL (automatic transmission) or depress the clutch pedal (manual transmission).
Turn the ignition switch to START.
Does the test light illuminate?
--
Go to Step 7
Go to Step 13

7
With a test light to ground, backprobe with underhood electrical center connector C1 terminal F10.
Shift the transmission into PARK or NEUTRAL (automatic transmission) or depress the clutch pedal (manual transmission).
Turn the ignition switch to START.
Does the test light illuminate?
--
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 14

8
Repair an open in CKT 6 between the underhood electrical center connector C1 terminal F10 and the starter solenoid.

Is the repair complete?
--
Recheck System Operation
--

9
Check for an open in CKT 269 from the theft deterrent relay terminal C2 to the clutch pedal position switch terminal A.
Check for an open in the clutch pedal position switch.
Check for an open in CKT 1606 from the clutch pedal position switch terminal B to the instrument panel electrical center connector C2 terminal C5.
Is the repair complete?
--
Recheck System Operation
--

10
Check for an open in CKT 269 from the theft deterrent relay terminal C2 to the PARK/NEUTRAL switch connector C1 terminal G.
Check for an open in the PARK/NEUTRAL switch.
Check for an open in CKT 1606 from the PARK/NEUTRAL electrical center connector C2 terminal C5.
Is the repair complete?
--
Recheck System Operation
--

11
Check for an open in CKT 5 or in power feed CKT 1542 including the ignition switch and maxi fuse #48.

Is the repair complete?
--
Recheck System Operation
--

12
Check the underhood electrical center between connector C2 terminal A10 and connector C1 terminal F10 and CKT 6 to the Starter solenoid for a possible short.
Replace the theft deterrent relay.
Is the repair complete?
--
Recheck System Operation
--

13
Replace the starter solenoid. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement.

Is the repair complete?
--
Recheck System Operation
--

14
Repair the open in CKT6 between the underhood electrical center connector C1 terminal F10 and the theft deterrent relay terminal A2.

Is the repair complete?
--
Recheck System Operation

--
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 11:47 PM
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Many thanks, looks like I've got my morning cut out me
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 11:34 AM
  #12  
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The TDR will turn on the starter motor if I understand correctly. Its located directly above the BCM. Send a PM to Bill Curlee for electrical advice. I'm thinking your ignition switch contacts have problems and possibly in there as well, the key's chip contacts which is your security. Now how they are impacted by an after market alarm system is anyone's guess. About the only thing I can suggest there is to remove it and put the car back to stock, then fix whatever the issues are. I asked you about the security light flashing or not because if it is, then the pellet contacts aren't working correctly, therefore the BCM will not allow the TDR to close. The post above by "BestVetteEver" is excellent for troubleshooting.
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 12:18 PM
  #13  
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From: Dyer IN
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Default

its not ur battery being too dead, the car would crank or atleast atempt to crank even on a low voltage battery
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by pentavolvo
its not ur battery being too dead, the car would crank or atleast atempt to crank even on a low voltage battery
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 01:39 PM
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OK ... problem resolved ...
Battery tested fine, put it back in and was going to start going through the above posted troubleshooting, when I leaned against the back of the car and it moved. Shifter was in park but was able to roll car forward so obviously not really in park. Pulled center console and sure enough the cable had busted at the grommet that the shifter connects to it. Reached in and jockeyed the cable to park position and she fired right up. New cable ordered and should be in business in a couple days.

Many thanks to all who posted on this thread, I appreciate it.
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 02:09 PM
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From: Van Buren Arkansas
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Cool! Talk about luck finding it that way. Will remember that for futrue issues for people.
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