Pop and Smoke in Dash
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 688
Likes: 0
From: Rye Brook, NY
Pop and Smoke in Dash
I heard a pop and then a puff of smoke came out of the center vents above dash. I also have a current/history code of B0361 (left actuator door short to ground). Sounds like the actuator blew? Is the actuator in there? Sort of above the stereo. The ac and alpine stereo seem to work. Any ideas? Thanks. Just reset the AC by pulling the 3 fuses and the current code cleared. I have no clue what the smoke was from.
Last edited by spdnman; Sep 25, 2008 at 08:00 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 7,897
Likes: 269
From: Hillsboro OR
Yes the actuators are under the center of the dash. Can you still direct the airflow (defrost, vent, floor)? Can you still adjust the temp to hot and cold? Sounds like a maybe capacitor on one of the actuator motors burned up.
If you just had the stereo installed you may have a hot wire exposed somewhere.
Just my guess.
If you just had the stereo installed you may have a hot wire exposed somewhere.
Just my guess.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 688
Likes: 0
From: Rye Brook, NY
Yes the actuators are under the center of the dash. Can you still direct the airflow (defrost, vent, floor)? Can you still adjust the temp to hot and cold? Sounds like a maybe capacitor on one of the actuator motors burned up.
If you just had the stereo installed you may have a hot wire exposed somewhere.
Just my guess.
If you just had the stereo installed you may have a hot wire exposed somewhere.
Just my guess.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 688
Likes: 0
From: Rye Brook, NY
Looks like all the vents and temperature seetings work properly. The current code was cleared and has not returned so far. Maybe smoke was a loose stereo wire, even though stereo works fine as well. The heater fan makes some noise, not the footwell fan. Is that hard to replace? Where are the actuators? If I take console off, can I at least see them?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 5
From: Stark County Ohio
See this thread -
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1561772
EDIT - And these threads -
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1921847
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1862114
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1561772
EDIT - And these threads -
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1921847
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1862114
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 688
Likes: 0
From: Rye Brook, NY
Thanks for the links.
No codes,but driver side is 10 degrees warmer than passenger side. My guess is the actautor. Do I need to remove the dashpad to get to driver side actuator?
Going to check behind the stereo tonight for any shorts.
No codes,but driver side is 10 degrees warmer than passenger side. My guess is the actautor. Do I need to remove the dashpad to get to driver side actuator?
Going to check behind the stereo tonight for any shorts.
Last edited by spdnman; Sep 25, 2008 at 02:59 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,149
Likes: 6
From: NCCO Oklahoma
You have an aftermarket stereo, so you MAY have already removed the Bose module above the gas pedal. If not, then it's just two small machine screws to take it out. (7mm I think.)
Once that is removed, lie on your back and slide your head up under the dash area. Look up towards the ignition switch and temperature sensor. See the black tube running up to the dash? It's about the size of your thumb... it's easily pushed out of the way or disconnected to get your hand up in there.
Now look up and towards the center of the dash. There is the actuator, held in place by two screws. (7mm or maybe 5mm?) Remove the electrical connection and two screws and it pulls right off.
Piece of cake.
An easy way to check to see if it works: With the car running and AC on, turn the temperature control **** to full cold deck. (60 degrees) The actuator should move to full stop. Then rotate it to full hot deck. The actuator should move to the other full stop. If you get full motion, your actuator is fine. If you don't, or if you hear any grinding, it's toast.
A 10 degree temperature differential could be a low charge.
Hope this helps.
Mark
Last edited by Fasthotrod; Sep 26, 2008 at 03:07 PM.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 688
Likes: 0
From: Rye Brook, NY
Nope... no need to remove the dash pad. You can access it easily from under the dash.
You have an aftermarket stereo, so you MAY have already removed the Bose module above the gas pedal. If not, then it's just two small machine screws to take it out. (7mm I think.)
Once that is removed, lie on your back and slide your head up under the dash area. Look up towards the ignition switch and temperature sensor. See the black tube running up to the dash? It's about the size of your thumb... it's easily pushed out of the way or disconnected to get your hand up in there.
Now look up and towards the center of the dash. There is the actuator, held in place by two screws. (7mm or maybe 5mm?) Remove the electrical connection and two screws and it pulls right off.
Piece of cake.
An easy way to check to see if it works: With the car running and AC on, turn the temperature control **** to full cold deck. (60 degrees) The actuator should move to full stop. Then rotate it to full hot deck. The actuator should move to the other full stop. If you get full motion, your actuator is fine. If you don't, or if you hear any grinding, it's toast.
A 10 degree temperature differential could be a low charge.
Hope this helps.
Mark
You have an aftermarket stereo, so you MAY have already removed the Bose module above the gas pedal. If not, then it's just two small machine screws to take it out. (7mm I think.)
Once that is removed, lie on your back and slide your head up under the dash area. Look up towards the ignition switch and temperature sensor. See the black tube running up to the dash? It's about the size of your thumb... it's easily pushed out of the way or disconnected to get your hand up in there.
Now look up and towards the center of the dash. There is the actuator, held in place by two screws. (7mm or maybe 5mm?) Remove the electrical connection and two screws and it pulls right off.
Piece of cake.
An easy way to check to see if it works: With the car running and AC on, turn the temperature control **** to full cold deck. (60 degrees) The actuator should move to full stop. Then rotate it to full hot deck. The actuator should move to the other full stop. If you get full motion, your actuator is fine. If you don't, or if you hear any grinding, it's toast.
A 10 degree temperature differential could be a low charge.
Hope this helps.
Mark
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,727
Likes: 20
From: Carson City, NV
I heard a pop and then a puff of smoke came out of the center vents above dash. I also have a current/history code of B0361 (left actuator door short to ground). Sounds like the actuator blew? Is the actuator in there? Sort of above the stereo. The ac and alpine stereo seem to work. Any ideas? Thanks. Just reset the AC by pulling the 3 fuses and the current code cleared. I have no clue what the smoke was from.
John
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,418
Likes: 1,598
From: Western NY
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,727
Likes: 20
From: Carson City, NV
It certainly did. I was jamming the brakes to get to a stop and trying to get out of my harness belts, wrist straps, door open and unpin the door bar to get out. I realized that in an emergency it feels like it takes an eternity to get out of the car. 
but probably 15 seconds or so. Never thought about practicing this before.
but probably 15 seconds or so. Never thought about practicing this before.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 688
Likes: 0
From: Rye Brook, NY
This very thing happened to me when I was at the Nevada Open Road Rally last May. I was doing about 160 mph when I heard something pop under the car and smoke started pouring out of my center console around my rubber boot and seams around my radio bezel. I thought for sure I had a fire but everything was operating perfectly fine with no codes or failure indications. What I discovered was during my high speed run, the CV boot on the passenger side popped loose (the metal band broke). Moly grease was thrown onto my hot exhaust and when I let off on the throttle smoke poured into my car. Just a suggestion to go check it out and make sure this did not happen to you.
John
John
Going to put evrything back together. The only thing I noticed is that when I try to adjust the passenger side temp up or down with the right side controls, nothing changes. Any ideas why the passenger side will not change? There are no codes at all. Thanks.
Last edited by spdnman; Sep 28, 2008 at 03:17 PM.
