We put one in my FRC, they fit the same as the LS1. I used the LS1 starter and knock sensors, LS2 oil pan. Crank damper was a pain in the a$$, it was a slotted LS1, the crank was set up for a LS1 w/ a keyway, plan ahead on this part, I had to buy a new one and have it fit to the crank $$$$$! Drivers side motor mount needs to be knotched for block clearance. I used an LS7 clutch, it died in 2500mi w/ 550rwhp, I suggest a Mcleod RST. You will want an LS7 throttle body, it will work w/ an LS1 aftermarket air bridge and a Blackwing air cleaner or similar. You will need the following wiring adapters: cam sensor relocater, knock sensor relocater, MAF sensor relocater and fuel injector adapters if you use LS7 fuel injectors, you can get these from Caspers, Lingenfelter or Katech. I purchased my engine from Andy at A&A corvettes in So. Cal. he is well versed on this conversion, I will be happy to help also, so will my installer John, he is a better source than I am on this. It is worth doing if you like to go fast I love mine.

 

oops, another potential swap would be the oil level sensor. If you will be using the LS2 oil pan, you may need to swap out the oil level sensor to the year specific for your Vette. I had to swap in an LS6 oil level sensor (rather than hunt down an adapter for the wiring).

Man, this thread would sure have been worth gold a year ago.

 

if you have issues with the knock sensors on the side of the block having clearance issues with your headers, you can opt to relocate the knock sensors onto the motor mount itself.

 

Just a data point...

I am running them on the side and they clear my SuperMaxx headers with no problem.

 

there is a boss for the sensors. they will fit fine. I did have to tap mine though to fit the threads of my stock LS1 knock sensors.

 

Make it 51. I did mine this spring but added a D1SC blower with 17 lbs boost and 150 rwhp Nitrous. It is a blast. Used all the old accessories, did not move the PCM, knotched the motor mount, LS2 oil pan, old reluctorand keyed the crank and balanced during engine build. Went with AR headers and this were a really nice fit. Where it got tight was adding an oil cooler, larger Dewitts rad and huge A and A intercooler all in the same area. It runs great and all I need now is to replace my drag radials, but all the manufacturers seem to be back ordered since last summer. Cheers

 

good for you yyzmsp!!!!

Crazy me, I went for the relocation of the PCM and dry sump tank even though I ran a wet sump configuration. The oil tank on the LS7 has PCV hose inlet and outlet points that could be construed as necessary in the most cursory technical inspection by the California referee. So, I complied, how nutty. Oh well. I must be getting old, just tired of fighting the system.

I had to relocate the battery in the trunk and find a vendor that had fashioned a bracket to hold the PCM/oil tank in similar fashion as stock.

Trying to be legit is the tough road for sure.

 

Cool guys, thanks for the input.

I'm still trying to work out replacing the cracked block that I was going to use. So far, close to a month has gone by with no word from the seller. I'm not going to elaborate on here yet though. Looks like I will be going the LS7 route.

I'm not going to use a crate, I'm building it from scratch. I've got a balanced rotating assembly with a 24x reluctor, upgraded heads, front and rear covers, LS6 valve covers and valley cover, ported LS7 intake, QM600 cam and all the goodies. I'm going to use a universal fuel rail for the LS7 with old style injectors so I dont have to cut my harness up. I have a batwing I can use with the wetsump setup I plan on running, as well as a change to a newer PCM. I dont have them yet, but I'm going to order some 1 7/8-2" stepped LS7 C5 headers from SDPC with a matching X pipe...and will replace the rest if I confirm they are less then 3" diameter (corsa indys)

I havent thought about the starter. It was replaced not too long before I bought the car. If I replace it I will go with an LS7 unit.

Rest of the drivetrain was beefed up. I dont have the silver 18x12 z06 rear wheels I wanted yet though. Good luck on that.

Since I have an eagle crank, I wonder if my existing balancer will work with the LS2 cover. Guess I can fit it and see.

I considered using a sleeved LS6 block, but if I'm going LS7 on it I might as well go all the way considering the cost. And Not many machine shops are properly equipped or knowledgeable on installing sleeves. And since this happened due to a bad sleeve install, I am now paranoid of running a sleeved block and having to go south on me. Trying to do this on my army budget

Thanks again guys.

 

Dont think you will be able to run the LS6 valley cover. It is different on the LS7 block.

 

You might take a look at Texas Speed's web site - they have a number of LS7 short & long block packages that might be worth looking at. Looks like they move most toward F body cars but offer wiring harness extensions, LS2 covers and other components. Price seems pretty competitive as well.

Was considering this swap for a Gen IV Camaro but just never got it off ground.

 

FYI, Lingenfelter now sells an adapter that lets you use the 58X reluctor wheel with the LS1/6 PCM: http://www.lingenfelter.com/Merchant...Category_Code=

 

I have a C5 Z06 with an LS7 block which uses many of the original LS6 parts (oil pan, intake manifold and TB, etc).

Good luck on our project.

 

My car is one of them, everything worked out just fine, even reused the LS1 oil pan and starter with 243 worked heads. It has an RPM A4 too.

 

Ditto!

 

so the ARH 1 7/8" kit will work with a ls7 block? i am getting ready to order my headers next week and i am thinking about going with a 427ci down the road.

 

Just what I have on my car, see signature above this post.

 

tsts,

what kind of numbers did your car lay down with the small heads? Cam?

Just curious..I am building a 416 with AFR 205s. Most say are toooooo small. The heads have been worked for the larger bore.

 

I'm in the middle of this swap (2002 Z06) and observed that the threads were different. Did you drill and helicoil for the different threads or did you drill and tap? My knock sensors (LS6) have one wire which I want to use to be compatible with the computer. Is there a way to use the later two wire knock sensors? The connection on the extension conversion harness I have is not compatible with the later knock sensor connection although the later sensor threads are compatible with the block. Are further adapters required?

 

Mine were drilled and tapped.

 

Realize that I did not go after all the power I could have, it's an automatic and I did not want a radical cam. It idles nicely at 675 RPM.

489 RWHP and 510 RWT on ECS's dyno when brand new, should creep up a little when broken in and I go to Mobile 1 and a final tune. Working on traction issues now.