help needed bad
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: hialeah florida
help needed bad
hey guys im having such a hard time with my c5 .its overheating bad and i cant seem to find the problem ive changed the radiator its brand new ive also bought a thermostat and still no fix .i just bought new wheels last night and my buddy ran the car and brought it back with steam on the hood i was very upset cause i cant seem to find the problem .it makes me not want to drive her down anymore .please help fans are working i dont know where the sensor could be anything advice would be greatly apreciated
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,997
Likes: 36
From: Ocean Springs MS
Look up under the front of the car and you will see the radiator opening, check that area for trash llike plastic bags, stryofoam cups etc. That area acts like a vacumn cleaner at times and if it clogs up your car will overheat. HTH 
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
I agree completely. Trash, dirt and debris stuck in the condensor will do this to you. You said the fans are running which would be the next thing to look at. The fans should be on all the time when its running and with the HVAC turned on, usually they are on high-speed. If not, check the ground pack at the forward right frame rail adjacent to the hood riser. The fan grounds go through it.
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Simi Valley CA
Typically, I'd agree with the above however being you changed out the radiator, you would have found any obstructions.
If it's not the Thermo.. which you replaced... and it isn't the radiator and/or blockage... the only thing left is 1) a bad water pump or 2) air in the system. Start with the easy stuff first. Check fans and make sure they come on. Next, try to burp the system by opening the reservoir cap (WHEN COLD) and squishing the radiator hose repeatedly. See if you can work out any air. If that don't work, it's water pump time.
If it's not the Thermo.. which you replaced... and it isn't the radiator and/or blockage... the only thing left is 1) a bad water pump or 2) air in the system. Start with the easy stuff first. Check fans and make sure they come on. Next, try to burp the system by opening the reservoir cap (WHEN COLD) and squishing the radiator hose repeatedly. See if you can work out any air. If that don't work, it's water pump time.
Last edited by Todd157k; Sep 25, 2008 at 01:05 PM.
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: hialeah florida
dude my freind owns a nissan 350z and told me to burp it but i did it another way to open the cap and just accelarate it and put the cap on lol again and do the same step my fans are working and i never drive with the ac off so im sure it might overheat so much faster .i was thinking i might have a head leak but m car dosent leak at all the only way it leaks is when the ac is on and it might be the water pump i just got wheels and ive babied the car i really havent steped on it ,afriad it might leave me stranded im going to try burping it thru ur way
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 490
Likes: 5
From: Tampa Bay Area, U.S.A. (Zombie Nation)
This may not apply as well to these newer aluminum radiators but I once installed a name brand (Moxxxx) brass radiator and it didn't solve my overheating at all. I fought the thing for years only to eventually determine that 90% of the problem was the fact that too much solder had been applied to the tube-header connection and it severely restricted most of the flow. Even if this doesn't apply exactly to your aluninum radiator I think you better verify your new radiator isn't somehow being restricted/clogged. If possible, try to use a bright light and maybe a small mechanic's mirror to get an eyeball on the inlet side of the tubes. Otherwise a radiator shop may be able to help you check for adequate flow rate.
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From: Simi Valley CA
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2005
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TEST
Cooling system pressure test.
Cylinder leakdown test.
Compression test.
Test (with test paper or sniffer) for hydrocarbons in coolant.
If it heats up FAST, you have a blockage or coolant (cooling system) leak.
You want to make sure the system can hold pressure and that you don't have hot exhaust entering from a failed head/gasket.
Cooling system pressure test.
Cylinder leakdown test.
Compression test.
Test (with test paper or sniffer) for hydrocarbons in coolant.
If it heats up FAST, you have a blockage or coolant (cooling system) leak.
You want to make sure the system can hold pressure and that you don't have hot exhaust entering from a failed head/gasket.
Last edited by dougbfresh; Sep 25, 2008 at 02:11 PM.