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I was recently advised by a very competent tuner to stay away from top end cleaning agents as they may be corrosive. He instead recommended that I have someone maintain a high idle rpm while I introduce a spray mist of water downstream of the air filter but upstream of the MAF. He said the water mist will shock the carbon and break it loose from the piston and cyclinder head. He said that I would immediatley see the carbon in the exhaust stream and to keep the spray mist going until the exhaust clears up.
It was an old trick to do that procedure with carburetor cars, using either water or sometimes MARVEL MYSTERY OIL (or similar) down the carburetor with a higher rpm level.
It did produce lots of smoke with plugs trying to fire...whether it reduced carbon buildup, maybe...maybe not. And most cars didn't have catalytic converters and sensors back then.
As suggested be very careful. It might cause more damage than you really want to deal with...
From: It's true money can't buy happiness, but it is more comfortable crying in a Corvette than on a bicyc
St. Jude Donor '13
You could just buy a Vararam Cold Air Intake since everyone says they'll suck up water. Just kidding. Small amounts of water are OK. They used to sell a kit that added water to help with detonation. I doubt you would ever see the carbon in the exhaust stream though. Why do you want to do this anyway? If you fear carbon build up get yourself a flexible lighted bore scope and stick it in your spark plug hole and see what the cylinder looks like. I'd do that before trying to fix something I may not even need.
I've had issues only once with carbon debris ending up in the piston lands that resulted in loss of compression and increased blowby on an '87 C4. The customer insisted that I perform this proceedure rather than do the job correctly, which I eventually had to perform.
I would use a mixture of half ATF and H2O as straight H2O will wash the cylinder walls. The ATF will lubricate , is light weight and is highly detergent. I have used this method effectively on the larger displacement Kawasaki Vulcan motorcycles 1300cc and up, as they have issue with carbon build up in the cylinder head/ valves.
I have watched it bone by professionals on aspirated engines and it is a bit scary. According to a friend who works on competion engines it should never be attempted on a car wil AL heads.
What happens on iron blocks and heads is the water entering the CC immediately shrinks the metal by a bit and the carbon is not shrunk. The shrink vs. the non shrink breaks the carbon loose and it flys out the exhaust.
On an AL head the needed shrinkage is not there and they can in fact get to hot and warp the CC causing great problems.
There is a term in engineering called Plastiforming where gas or steam is introduced to AL or TI under pressure to remold the metal. Not good for the CC of a LS1.
You could just buy a Vararam Cold Air Intake since everyone says they'll suck up water. Just kidding. Small amounts of water are OK. They used to sell a kit that added water to help with detonation. I doubt you would ever see the carbon in the exhaust stream though. Why do you want to do this anyway? If you fear carbon build up get yourself a flexible lighted bore scope and stick it in your spark plug hole and see what the cylinder looks like. I'd do that before trying to fix something I may not even need.
Well, what started all this is that I have noticed over the last few months that my engine pings under light load when crusiing along in 6th gear. No ping under heavy acceleration. (AFR Heads cut to 62cc). I never had a problem in the 3 years the heads have been installed until this year. No codes / No catch can. I am wondering if carbon build up is the culprit.