Rear suspension squeak
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 3,904
Likes: 250
From: Orlando FL
Rear suspension squeak
I have had a squeak for a few weeks, sway bar bushings seem to be the common cause. Ordered new bushings and installed them this weekend. Squeak is still there. While under the car, we bounced the up and down and I have determined that the squeak is coming from the right rear upper a-arm bushing, where the a-arm is connected to the hub assembly. There appears to be no way to get any lube into there, short of destroying the the little rubber boot. Any ideas?
TIA
Ron
TIA
Ron
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 4,813
Likes: 2
From: We cant stop here... this is bat country
As I'm not in the garage to take a closer look (my car is up on stands with the wheels off), the only advice I could give would be to get a spray can of White Lithium Grease and spray the bushing down. Make sure it gets worked into the bushing area well, then take a drive just to make certain thats where your squeak is coming from.
If so, and if the grease quiets it up, do a test to see how long the effects last. Short term fix, but better than nothing until you can either get some real answers or swap the bushing.
If so, and if the grease quiets it up, do a test to see how long the effects last. Short term fix, but better than nothing until you can either get some real answers or swap the bushing.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 3,904
Likes: 250
From: Orlando FL
I did spray some white lithium up on the bushing, but there seems to be a pretty good seal on the bushing, so I don't think it will penetrate. Hoping someone has a solution other that pulling the hub assembly loose.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
You are describing the upper ball joint. Rock Auto and NAPA can get replacements or you can purchase a whole new control arm. You have to press out the old one and press in the new one if you replace just the ball joint. I've read that someone drilled into the top of the ball joint and threaded a grease fitting in there (well, he did all 8 on the car) but I have no idea how good an idea this is.
There is no other way to fix it except replace it unless you want to try drilling in a grease fitting. Even then, it might be too late to save that joint.
Peter
There is no other way to fix it except replace it unless you want to try drilling in a grease fitting. Even then, it might be too late to save that joint.
Peter
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 3,904
Likes: 250
From: Orlando FL
Thanks for all of the hints, but I think it is fixed. Got an assist from Stangkiller (Chris) this morning. When checking out the ball joint, he noticed that the right rear shock mount plate appeared loose and that the sway bar end link was toast. He changed the end link and pulled the shock off and we tightened the mounting plate and re-installed the shock. Not a sound on the way home from his place, so it would appear that one or the other was the noise. I am betting on the shock mount as the noise was coming from up on top of the wheel assembly.
Kudos to Chris for all his help on this. Steaks and cold ones at my place soon!
Kudos to Chris for all his help on this. Steaks and cold ones at my place soon!
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Race Director
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From: Houston, Tx Got traction?
CI 5-6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07-'08
Thanks for all of the hints, but I think it is fixed. Got an assist from Stangkiller (Chris) this morning. When checking out the ball joint, he noticed that the right rear shock mount plate appeared loose and that the sway bar end link was toast. He changed the end link and pulled the shock off and we tightened the mounting plate and re-installed the shock. Not a sound on the way home from his place, so it would appear that one or the other was the noise. I am betting on the shock mount as the noise was coming from up on top of the wheel assembly.
Kudos to Chris for all his help on this. Steaks and cold ones at my place soon!
Kudos to Chris for all his help on this. Steaks and cold ones at my place soon!
I was glad to help!
3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
You are describing the upper ball joint. Rock Auto and NAPA can get replacements or you can purchase a whole new control arm. You have to press out the old one and press in the new one if you replace just the ball joint. I've read that someone drilled into the top of the ball joint and threaded a grease fitting in there (well, he did all 8 on the car) but I have no idea how good an idea this is.
There is no other way to fix it except replace it unless you want to try drilling in a grease fitting. Even then, it might be too late to save that joint.
Peter
There is no other way to fix it except replace it unless you want to try drilling in a grease fitting. Even then, it might be too late to save that joint.
Peter
you can inject lithium with a large needle into the rubber. Take a dab of black rtv (rubber) over injection location once completed. Have seen this done for 20+ years in shops. Many times the joints haven’t failed and just lack lubricants as you noted above.
