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Flushing clutch fluid

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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 03:23 PM
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Default Flushing clutch fluid

Thourghly confused. Probably read to many advertisements.
What's the better way?
Mityvac - vacuum
Motive - push
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 03:43 PM
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If you check your clutch reservoir and the fluid is dark (not transparent), use a syringe to pull the fluid out. Take a paper towel (shake it out first to remove some excess fibers), and rip the inside of the reservoir. This should pick up the dirty stuff that clung to the inside. Then refill the reservoir.

I do this instead of flushing. I just got my Z, and try to check it every week or before every wash by sight (without removing the cap) to see if the fluid looks somewhat clear. Others check it at longer intervals.
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Rotor Head
Thourghly confused. Probably read to many advertisements.
What's the better way?
Mityvac - vacuum
Motive - push
Getting to the bleed nut is the hard part to push out fluid and air. The best way, but stupid to get to.
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 05:28 PM
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Sorry guy's only gave you 1/2 of the information.

I have a remote bleeder and can drain at will. I would prefer it if I could do it without involving my bride of many years pushing the clutch. I've heard that the minyvac may cause turbulance when drawing the fluid causing air pockets. On the other hand the Motive may force air into the fluid when pushing causing air pockets.

Before I run out and buy one I'd love an opinion by someone who has used them.
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Old Oct 20, 2008 | 06:27 PM
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ttt
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Old Oct 20, 2008 | 08:20 PM
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Not familiar with either system however, pumping the clutch is not necessary. The system is self bleeding anyway. Just takes some time. Best way I have found is to stick a shop towel in the resevoir and sop it dry, then refill. Wait 10 minutes, do it again. Repeat as necessary until system is clean. If you come back after 10 minutes and it's clean, or semi clean, wait a little longer between repeating the process to ensure it's clean. Then pump it a time or two to get any that may have been unstirred. Pumping between does no good and just isn't worth the aggravation.
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Old Oct 21, 2008 | 01:30 AM
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Default Flushing clutch fluid

Originally Posted by Old Rotor Head
Sorry guy's only gave you 1/2 of the information.

I have a remote bleeder and can drain at will. I would prefer it if I could do it without involving my bride of many years pushing the clutch. I've heard that the minyvac may cause turbulance when drawing the fluid causing air pockets. On the other hand the Motive may force air into the fluid when pushing causing air pockets.

Before I run out and buy one I'd love an opinion by someone who has used them.
Routinely use the Motive pressure bleeder for brake system flush and remote clutch bleeder. Evacuate the clutch reservoir with a syringe, refill, attach Motive and pressurize @ around 10 psi without adding any fluid to the Motive tank. Easy and clean way to flush the clutch system but, keep an eye on the reservoir to avoid running empty. I use a blue colored fluid and as the fluid draws down it appears that some fluid is remaining but it is just residual clinging to the inner channels - refill as needed at this point to avoid forcing air into the M/C. This method has worked quick and effective for me. Good luck...

A1
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Old Oct 21, 2008 | 07:11 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by knyght4
If you check your clutch reservoir and the fluid is dark (not transparent), use a syringe to pull the fluid out. Take a paper towel (shake it out first to remove some excess fibers), and rip the inside of the reservoir. This should pick up the dirty stuff that clung to the inside. Then refill the reservoir.

I do this instead of flushing. I just got my Z, and try to check it every week or before every wash by sight (without removing the cap) to see if the fluid looks somewhat clear. Others check it at longer intervals.
I'll check it every couple of months or so. Over the past couple of years I bet I've ran a couple of quarts through the system.
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Old Oct 21, 2008 | 08:07 AM
  #9  
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From: Derry NH
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I did the 'keep the reservoir clean' method for a few years and had no problems with spirited driving and minimal drag racing. As soon as I started HPDEs on a road course my clutch stuck to the floor (and popped back on its own). It did this all weekend, even with a clean reservoir.

I flushed using the two person method of depressing clutch pedal and opening bleed screw. After that I have had zero clutch issues.

My vote: use the pedal-pushing 'old fashioned' bleeding method. It will only take 2-3 minutes of your bride's time. My wife helps me bleed the brakes too, she just sits back and exercises her leg for a few minutes
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Old Oct 21, 2008 | 10:42 AM
  #10  
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A turkey baster has worked for me not only with my ZO6, however with every other vehicle I have owned for the past few years! Very simple method and takes less then 5 minutes to complete. I change the clutch fluid every oil change to insure clean fluid and proper function. Make sure to place the baster in a safe place though, dont want it finding its way back to the kitchen this next Thanksgiving, lol!
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Old Oct 21, 2008 | 01:57 PM
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Get a speed bleeder screw for your remote bleeder, just like the brake bleed scews. Then just pumping the brake pedal is a one man operation. Just crack it with something to catch the fluid, and pump the pedal.

FWIW, I don't see how the system could be 'self bleeding'. There is only one hose, no way for fluid to circulate. From what I know a remote bleeder is the only way to actually bleed easily. Getting to the stock bleed screw is insane.
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Old Oct 21, 2008 | 06:12 PM
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Thanks for the input. Will buy the Motive unit with the 1108 cap.
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 11:29 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Old Rotor Head
Thanks for the input. Will buy the Motive unit with the 1108 cap.
Remember that lower pressure is better...

I have been using the syringe method on my cars for a couple of years and that seems to be working. I change it out at every oil change.

JB.
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