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I was on a cruise all day Sunday and everything was running great.
Went to take a run today and ... no power steering. DIC warning code
Service Vehicle Soon.
So I know what I will be doing, starting with running a search later tonight to see what I can learn.
What is the best way to check the PS pump?
What is involved with replacing?
Don't know how you would properly check it, but can tell you how to replace it. Disconnect battery, remove serpentine belt, drain P.S. reservoir ( I just use a small cup, take the cap off and turn it upside down to get as much out as possible), remove alternator, remove 4-15mm bolts holding alt. bracket to engine, push it aside so you can get to the 18mm nuts on the steering rack, I have a few wrenches that I use to get the nuts off. One is the flare nut wrench from Craftsman. I try to put it in a position where I can use a pry bar to break it loose by gaining leverage against anything I can. I also have a very long 18mm that if the nut is in a good place, I can use it. Once it's loose, I use a stubby 18mm. Once the nuts are loose, pull the hoses out of the rack. I also recommend that you have the car on jack stands and remove the driver front wheel. If you have trouble with the 18mm's you can go through the fender for better leverage sometimes and it will also help you manipulate the hose out from under the steering rack. Once you get it out, use the pulley removal tool ( can be rented at any of my local auto parts stores for free ) and take the 3 bolts out that hold the pump in place. Swap the pump and install the pulley until it's fully seated. Put everything together and then before you try to drive, turn the wheel back and forth a few times to prime the pump.
I hope after all of that, there's not something wrong with your steering rack!!
I've never heard of power steering just plain old failing like that unless the serpentine belt came off which would have been my first guess. Pull the codes to find out what tripped the CEL.
dgrant3830
I've never heard of power steering just plain old failing like that unless the serpentine belt came off which would have been my first guess. Pull the codes to find out what tripped the CEL.
Noticed it as soon as I was backing out of the garage and there was no problem when I parked it. Belt is fine and there was no signs of any leak.
This morning I see there is a leak and I ran the codes.
PCM code
P1637 H
SCM
B2860 H
Going out to investigate the leak.
The codes are not on the list I have. Anyone have any info on the codes (I know the scm codes are for the seat module but still interested in what it says).
It sounds like your harmonic balancer may have come off. If so, it might have hit the power steering assembly. I sure hope it didn't because that's going to be a costly repair.
It sounds like your harmonic balancer may have come off. If so, it might have hit the power steering assembly. I sure hope it didn't because that's going to be a costly repair.
No damage to the PS Assy. Crank pulley bolt seems to have gotten loose causing pulley to spin on crank and belts not to turn.
So it's not a power steering problem and all the ps parts are fine.
Looks like I need to change the pulley and front seal and this time I will
pin it to avoid this PITA problem again.
No damage to the PS Assy. Crank pulley bolt seems to have gotten loose causing pulley to spin on crank and belts not to turn.
I doubt it is just that the bolt came loose, although I believe you that the bolt is loose. The balancer is on the crank very tightly, its a PIA to put on. They can walk off the crank, but that seems to be on high HP engines that hit high revs a lot. Usually it is a fight to get the balancer off with the proper tools, it is on that hard. Even if the bolt came out, the balancer would have more than enough grip on the crank to trun. I think the bolt is just to keep it in place, not to make it turn. Unless the balancer or crank are damaged. My money is on the balancer having an issue, or walked off the crank.
I'd look at replacing the balancer and maybe getting a ARP bolt. The good news is that you don’t seem to have damaged anything, the not so good news is that the steering rack has to come out. It has to come out at leas half way, and it may be safer just to pull it all the way out to get to the balancer.
I doubt it is just that the bolt came loose, although I believe you that the bolt is loose. The balancer is on the crank very tightly, its a PIA to put on. They can walk off the crank, but that seems to be on high HP engines that hit high revs a lot. Usually it is a fight to get the balancer off with the proper tools, it is on that hard. Even if the bolt came out, the balancer would have more than enough grip on the crank to trun. I think the bolt is just to keep it in place, not to make it turn. Unless the balancer or crank are damaged. My money is on the balancer having an issue, or walked off the crank.
I'd look at replacing the balancer and maybe getting a ARP bolt. The good news is that you don’t seem to have damaged anything, the not so good news is that the steering rack has to come out. It has to come out at leas half way, and it may be safer just to pull it all the way out to get to the balancer.
I have 3,000 miles on the pulley and absolutely no high revs
It's an ASP 25% UD pulley and there are no initial signs of any problems with it other than it has spun on the crank. It has not 'walked' which is a good thing. I suspect the crank bolt was not torqued properly. But like you say the rack has to come out. However, I believe I can get away with not having to remove the radiator, so maybe it won't be such a PITA.
Definitely will switch to the ARP bolt and definitely will pin the pulley when I fix it. Not sure if the pulley can be used. Need to evaluate it more after removal. I'm hoping that the pulley inside diameter opened up and that the crank hub is not galled.
I have 3,000 miles on the pulley and absolutely no high revs
It's an ASP 25% UD pulley and there are no initial signs of any problems with it other than it has spun on the crank. It has not 'walked' which is a good thing. I suspect the crank bolt was not torqued properly. But like you say the rack has to come out. However, I believe I can get away with not having to remove the radiator, so maybe it won't be such a PITA.
Definitely will switch to the ARP bolt and definitely will pin the pulley when I fix it. Not sure if the pulley can be used. Need to evaluate it more after removal. I'm hoping that the pulley inside diameter opened up and that the crank hub is not galled.