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HVAC selector switch stuck on "feet" setting

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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 02:15 AM
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Default HVAC selector switch stuck on "feet" setting

hey guys i was wondering if someone could help me out... my 99 coupe's HVAC position selector is stuck on the feet setting, meaning defrost and all other positions are inop.(its NOT dual climate control )this just happened tonight, and it worked fine up until right now. i can turn the **** freely without hearing any change (vacuum) in the switch. any advice? also, my blower fan only works on speeds 4 and 5, im guessing the resistor is bad? thank you in advance for any help!! -Jeremy
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 03:42 AM
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I'd check for a vaccum leak at the back of the intake manifold and under the battery...
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 04:07 AM
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Originally Posted by tstar
I'd check for a vaccum leak at the back of the intake manifold and under the battery...
You took the words out of my mouth!
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 04:07 AM
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Sorry!

Tim
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 02:14 PM
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i just went and checked a few things and read some threads on this about the vac leak under the battery. my question is, if i have good vacuum at the line under the passengerside dash, that goes into the purple vacuum line, do i need to check all the other underhood possibilities? (intake manifold, under battery, vacuum canister, etc) the **** on my hvac head just turns freely like its not doing anything, just wondering if the head is bad, or if theres another vacuum connection to check...
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 07:49 PM
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SeaFive,

I'd be curious to know the answer to that same question...??

If you have vacuum behind the firewall in the passenger foot well, then you can be sure that all the lines behind the intake manifold and running down into the canister behind the fender are all okay?

How much vacuum should the gage be running?

Thanks,
Donnie
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 01:13 AM
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If you have vaccum at your vaccum control valve then there's no need to check under the hood.

I'm not familiar with the single zone head unit, and I'm in uncharted waters here sorry. This free spinning feeling... is it different from when it did work? I assume you checked the **** to make sure it isn't hogged out.

Tim
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 01:19 AM
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Tim,
Thanks so much man!!

Donnie
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by tstar
If you have vaccum at your vaccum control valve then there's no need to check under the hood.

I'm not familiar with the single zone head unit, and I'm in uncharted waters here sorry. This free spinning feeling... is it different from when it did work? I assume you checked the **** to make sure it isn't hogged out.

Tim


ok..forgive my ignorance! it was the damn **** the whole time.im a technician by trade, and i couldnt figure that out the first time around? LOL... but thanks for the help. yeah, the **** was just cracked and free spinning on the shaft. probably from someone over turning the **** over the years. sorry to get so technical about such an overlook! -Jeremy



oh and i would assume that for those with the actual vac leak, if the first thing you do is check the connection at the hose that goes into the purple line and you have good vacuum, its safe to say youre not looking at a vacuum issue. just seems like a great first spot to start out for those trying to diagnose.
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 01:57 AM
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I won't tell you how many times I've overlooked the obvious because I was expecting the worst!

Good job getting her all fixed up!

Tim
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 02:12 AM
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if vacuum leak was present you'd be stuck on defrost.

Dave
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 02:16 AM
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Good info! I didn't think it would default, just stay in the last mode...

Tim
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 02:24 AM
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basically it is a vacuum operated door. So basically w/o vacuum to the door it directs air to the defroster.

Dave
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 08:58 PM
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Actually when there's a small vacuum leak, it will usually blow about 30% of the air out of each vent no matter what...

The whole time that my car had the vacuum leak, no matter what mode setting I had the car on the vents would all blow out an equal amount of air. The fan speed would change but it wouldn't switch the vents of course.

No biggie but I just thought that I'd throw that in because that's the way my car was stuck for months and I'd talked to a few other members that had the same issue.
It's more like without vacuum the door just stays all the way open and doesn't "direct" the air at all, it just blows it out.

DZ
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Old Nov 5, 2008 | 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 00Corvette
Actually when there's a small vacuum leak, it will usually blow about 30% of the air out of each vent no matter what...



DZ
Now you're just splitting airs.......
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Old Nov 5, 2008 | 01:47 AM
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Sorry...after re-reading it, you're right.

DZ
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Old Nov 5, 2008 | 06:03 PM
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does ANYONE have one of these units they'd like to part with a ****? i need one and can't find one!!! im willing to pay...
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 07:58 PM
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Default where was the vacuum leak located?

Originally Posted by 00Corvette
Actually when there's a small vacuum leak, it will usually blow about 30% of the air out of each vent no matter what...

The whole time that my car had the vacuum leak, no matter what mode setting I had the car on the vents would all blow out an equal amount of air. The fan speed would change but it wouldn't switch the vents of course.

No biggie but I just thought that I'd throw that in because that's the way my car was stuck for months and I'd talked to a few other members that had the same issue.
It's more like without vacuum the door just stays all the way open and doesn't "direct" the air at all, it just blows it out.

DZ
Where was the leak located?
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 09:15 PM
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Back of the intake.
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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 01:03 PM
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Default vac leak

Originally Posted by T_Vert
Back of the intake.
Thanks for the quick response. Are we talking about a leak at the rear portion of the manifold intake gasket or simply a vacuum hose dry rotting etc. ? I'm not familiar (yet) with what exactly is back there and with such limited access its hard to tell. Thanks again for the help!
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