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is this a DIY on the floor with jacks or on a lift estimate at a shop? Also its easier with an M6.
I'd say 3 hours as an average. You need to move some hardware to get to it. Typically its enough of a PITA with too little gain, to do as a single install. Guys usually change pulleys when doing cams etc.
If your going to be in there to change the balancer/pulley go ahead and pin the crank in case you ever want to supercharge the car. You can buy a crank pinning kit from several vendors on here. Pinning the crank is very easy once you have the rack out.
My 3/4" impact gun will remove ANY balancer bolt even if it has red loctite applied. Using a breaker bar I quit doing 20 years ago for high torque stuff.
Last edited by briann510; Nov 6, 2008 at 05:17 AM.
Also, while your at it, replace the timing cover with a spilt-type. That way, if you ever want to change your cam, you won't have to pull the balancer again!
Also, while your at it, replace the timing cover with a spilt-type. That way, if you ever want to change your cam, you won't have to pull the balancer again!
Has anyone used the new Edelbrock two piece cover? I am just wondering and I am planning on trying it. $175 online at autozone.com so not too bad if no problems!!
Thats the easy part, the hard part is breaking the bolt loose and getting the turd off
I've gotta disagree with you there. I hear this all the time, but a long breaker bar and a little muscle gets them off every time. The steering rack ont he other hand is just PITA to deal with.
To break the bolt loose, heat the head of the bolt with a propane torch that will loosen the loctite, it probably expands the bolt & reduces some of the torque..easy. The mistake I made was not checking the AC pulley alignment, I get to do the job all over again.
I've gotta disagree with you there. I hear this all the time, but a long breaker bar and a little muscle gets them off every time. The steering rack ont he other hand is just PITA to deal with.
I take it youve never done an automatic then I see. Manuals are easy, Try an automatic You have to hold the engine..
a regular impact wrench will get the old bolt off. if its an auto, the best way is not to put a screw driver in the flywheel, if you dont know what your doin you could damage it. the best way is to put a chain wrench araound the pulley and wedge it to the floor, this will allow you to torque the bolt down and also rotate the bolt 140 degrees to seat the pulley. and yea the rack is a pain. ls1howto.com has a good step by step instructions on how to remove every thing to get to the bolt.its under thier cam and head swap. good luck 99c5