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So I'm going to be changing my clutch fluid. It's murkey and dark colored. My clutch pedal is floppy and I was told this may help. For the cost to do it myself, (a whopping 20 dollars) I'll go ahead and do it since it needs to be done anyway. I have a 2002 bone stock car (with the exception of a few minor bolt ons). The clutch seems to 'grab' at the top of the release (right when I lift my foot off of the pedal). It used to grab much earlier than that. Nearly 60k miles, getting ready to have the tranny flushed and changed as well with Royal Purple.
and am now ready to do it, however I wasn't able to find the fluid I needed when I went to my local Advance Auto store (somehow they always manage to disappoint me).
I'm contemplating on going with DOT 5 instead of DOT 4 since it has a higher boiling point. Is this a bad idea? The Ranger's article didn't even mention DOT 5 as an option.
But I'm confused: DOT 5/5.1 have a mushy feel but yet have a higher boiling point. All I care about is that my clutch works properly and doesn't harm my drivetrain.
Also I saw "DOT 3 & 4" brake fluid in the SAME bottle. That alone confuses the crap out of me.
Don't use DOT 5, it is silicone brake fluid and definetely NOT recommended for use in our cars. Use either the DOT 3 or 4, you won't notice the difference and the fluid won't boil like when it is in the brake system. Keep using the turkey baster method until your fluid looks clear. Also, don't save brake fluid once opened for long periods of time. The fluid will absorb moisture fron the air.
Don't use DOT 5, it is silicone brake fluid and definetely NOT recommended for use in our cars. Use either the DOT 3 or 4, you won't notice the difference and the fluid won't boil like when it is in the brake system. Keep using the turkey baster method until your fluid looks clear. Also, don't save brake fluid once opened for long periods of time. The fluid will absorb moisture fron the air.
From my understanding, DOT 5 is silicone based whereas DOT 5.1 is a Polyglycol Ether Based fluid... So shouldn't 5.1 be better than 4 since it has a higher boiling temp?
Don't use DOT 5, it is silicone brake fluid and definetely NOT recommended for use in our cars. Use either the DOT 3 or 4, you won't notice the difference and the fluid won't boil like when it is in the brake system. Keep using the turkey baster method until your fluid looks clear. Also, don't save brake fluid once opened for long periods of time. The fluid will absorb moisture fron the air.
turkey baster method......
i know the concept of this but is there a how to anywhere?
The DIY proceedure is straight forward; Take off the resevoir cap. Stick in the syringe (I use a medical 60ml syringe). Suck out fluid, all that you can ( wipe out with particulate free cloth or wipe the residue build up). Pour in new DOT ( your choice. I use synthetic GM DOT 4. Others cause my clutch to squeak for some reason) to level mark. Replace cap. Pump clutch pedal a dozen to 20 times ( or drive the car a bit). Repeat the proceedure till fluid is clear. http://http://www.seinesystems.com/BrakeFluids.htm Ranger's post says about all there is to say.
The DIY proceedure is straight forward; Take off the resevoir cap. Stick in the syringe (I use a medical 60ml syringe). Suck out fluid, all that you can ( wipe out with particulate free cloth or wipe the residue build up). Pour in new DOT ( your choice. I use synthetic GM DOT 4. Others cause my clutch to squeak for some reason) to level mark. Replace cap. Pump clutch pedal a dozen to 20 times ( or drive the car a bit). Repeat the proceedure till fluid is clear. http://http://www.seinesystems.com/BrakeFluids.htm Ranger's post says about all there is to say.
ok so instead of bleeding the whole system, u just keep sucking it out until after u pump the clutch pedal and its still clear? ok thats simple.
and u would recomend this often correct? when its dirty basicly.
A clean clear fluid makes for a happy clutch.........
Originally Posted by deadbeatrec
ok so instead of bleeding the whole system, u just keep sucking it out until after u pump the clutch pedal and its still clear? ok thats simple.
and u would recomend this often correct? when its dirty basicly.
Absolutely, obviously it depends on how much driving you do but it will take up to 20 or so flush and fills to get the fluid clear to begin with so don't get discouraged. And the fluid does get 'dirty' fast. I do this once a year for both my C5s. Supposedly the black color is from the hose and ( according to GM ) should not make any difference , But it does from my experience and so many others on this forum.
Absolutely, obviously it depends on how much driving you do but it will take up to 20 or so flush and fills to get the fluid clear to begin with so don't get discouraged. And the fluid does get 'dirty' fast. I do this once a year for both my C5s. Supposedly the black color is from the hose and ( according to GM ) should not make any difference , But it does from my experience and so many others on this forum.
How do u protect from getting it on ur paint? just really carefull or do u put down like plastic to cover your paint? i like your syringe idea, goog thinking.
How do u protect from getting it on ur paint? just really carefull or do u put down like plastic to cover your paint? i like your syringe idea, goog thinking.
Good question; I first place a fender cover. Then plastic trash bag around the area , followed by terry cloth shop towels ( that will absorb and control anything I may drip). I also use a shop towel over the end of the syringe when moving toward the 'coffee can' to empty into. I also place an old terry cloth shop towel into the 'coffee can' so there is no accidental splash when I empty the syringe.
I use the syring because it does not spit the DOT fluid like the turkey baster has a tendency to do unexpectedly. I buy the syringes (60ml which is a 3/4" diameter x 5 inch capacity ) on Ebay for about a dollar each when I buy 6 or more. I used to use a brake fluid syringe from Napa Auto that cost $5 each and is very similiar in size and heavy duty quality as the medical syringes.
Best place I have found to get the "Prestone DOT-4" fluid is Walmart. Advance,Auto Zone appear to be a hit/miss. I pretty much do the same as posted by "Dieseldave56".
ok so i got Valvoline dot 3/4 break fluid on lunch break. they had prestone dot 3 but i wanted to go with 4, but they didnt have a dedicated 4. so i got this. it does say synthetic on the front, is this ok?
ok so i got Valvoline dot 3/4 break fluid on lunch break. they had prestone dot 3 but i wanted to go with 4, but they didnt have a dedicated 4. so i got this. it does say synthetic on the front, is this ok?
Advance Auto should have both Prestone and Valvoline...my store has both (DOT 3/4)
The problem with Dot-5 silicone fluid is that it absorbs air causing air bubbles in the fluid, giving a mushy pedal. (Not so with Dot-5.1)
I used Dot-5 silicone in my C3 cars for a couple of years until my first trip into the mountains with my 74. I ended up with so much air in the brakes, the brake pedal hit the floor.
Use Dot-4; it is better than Dot-3 (higher boiling point with Dot-4), easy to obtain, & inexpensive.
WALMART has the small measured syringe for less than $5...look in the automotive section where they sell odds and ends stuff like radiator caps and battery widgets...
How do u protect from getting it on ur paint? just really carefull or do u put down like plastic to cover your paint? i like your syringe idea, goog thinking.
Hi deadbeatrec -
I lay several paper towels all around the reservoir, and I also use (as a tray) the bottom of a plastic 1-gallon "milk-jug" as a tray to lay the syringe and to collect the "used" fluids.
I use a syringe from a jar of cajun injector butter that you use for injecting turkeys prior to cooking. I just remove the needle and use the plastic syringe that is left.
You can empty the reservoir completely, understanding that you do not touch the pedal whilst the reservoir is empty.
I change mine out when I notice the clutch gets slightly "numb" after a high-rpm romp.
I lay several paper towels all around the reservoir, and I also use (as a tray) the bottom of a plastic 1-gallon "milk-jug" as a tray to lay the syringe and to collect the "used" fluids.
I use a syringe from a jar of cajun injector butter that you use for injecting turkeys prior to cooking. I just remove the needle and use the plastic syringe that is left.
You can empty the reservoir completely, understanding that you do not touch the pedal whilst the reservoir is empty.
I change mine out when I notice the clutch gets slightly "numb" after a high-rpm romp.
best regards -
mqqn
I also used a milk jug except I didn't have a gallon. I had the half gallon one and it fit perfectly between the brake reservior and an empty spot in the engine bay. The Prestone Dot 4 works excellent. It helped the clutch action right away. It's funny now because I'm releasing too fast now and I feel the car lurch forward (since I'm not used to the new engaging points).
After I get home from work today I'll make sure I dump what's in it now that I've got some miles on it and put in some even fresher stuff. I might as well. It's cheap stuff and it also has a shelf life. Thanks for everyone's help!