I went to the ATM this morning and when I went to roll up my window, it did nothing. So I opened the door and shut it, and it rolled back up. I never thought any more about it. Then I went out at lunch and started it, rolled the window down some, (just to make sure I don't lock the keys in the car while warming it up). Went to the car wash and rolled it back up. Then stopped by to pick up some lunch at a drive through, window went down fine, now I can't get it up. Nothing works on the drivers switch panel. The passengers works fine with its switch. Just nothing on the drivers switch. I did a search and saw somethign about wiggling the rubber boot for the wiring loom. Tried that, and nothing. Now what?!?!? Remove the rubber boot from the door jam, and check the wiring? Remove the door panel? Don't know what to try next. I'm stuck at work and its COLD out!

 

Connectors for door wireing just inside door jam. Need pulling, cleaning, and some dielectric greese. In the meantime if you're stuck at work, don't just wiggle the boot to the door, grab it and shake the H*** out of it.

 

I stayed late and took the boot completely out and shook those wires and nothing. Then went on to take the door panel off and shook every wire I could find, I got it up. Now what? What needs to be changed / bought? Thanks for the info!

 

First and most important, pull the connectors (from the door jam) apart, inspect good, clean and lube them. One wire with the clear insulation might need some tape added. Read Bill Curlee's long sticky at top of C5 tech page. He's got it all together.

 

There is a good chance the motor is just stuck, and it is not wiring related at all.
It is a common problem for the window regulator motor to stick. You might be able to jar it into working, but once they mess up, you will probably need to replace the whole regulator assembly to get a permanent fix.

 

I agree, that's certainly a possibility. If so, it should be easy to confirm by taping on the motor while holdding the switch.

 

If it were just a stuck window motor, wouldn't everything else work? I couldn't roll down the passengers side window, adjust the mirrors, and the memory seat button wasn't working either. All I did is hit everything with my hand under the door panel and it started working again. All the switches! I will get more into the door jam harness, and check to see if something in there is bad. Thanks for the help!

 

You are right. I missed that nothing else works.
Could be wiring, or the door control module relays.

 

*Sorry for this long post*
I'm starting to get depressed. No really, I went to go out Saturday night and my window switches were not luminated again. And none of the functions on the switch worked. So I said the heck with it and we left in the vette anyways. We got about 5 miles from the house and all hell broke loose. Radio went blank, Service Engine Soon, Low Tire Pressure, Decrease Engine Speed, and low fuel on the Display. Along with check gauges, ABS, and the Antilock Brake lights in the dash. My fuel guage went to empty, oil pressure went as high as it could go, along with my water temp. which I knew was wrong, because we just left the house and its like 45 degrees here. I took it home and shut it off, turned the key back on and everything was back to normal, except the drivers side window switch. It was still not working and is not luminated. When I got home from going out in my other car, I pulled the codes on the Vette, and there were a bunch of them. Well here goes!

10-PCM P1626H
28-TCS U1301H U1016H
40-BCM U1255H U1096H U1016H
58-SDM U1301H *I don't even have this SDM in my codes list!*
60-IPC U1255H U1016H U1064H U1040H U1176H
U1088H
80-Radio U1064H U1016H
99-HVAC U1064H U1096H U1160HC U1255H U0361H
U0363H
A0-LDCM No Comm.
A1-RDCM U1255H U1064H U1016H U1096H
A6-SCM 1064H 1255H 1096H 1065H 1016H
B0-RFA U1064H U1255H U1096H U1016H

Are these a ground problem? Or could all of this be caused from that one serial buss wire?

Well, yesterday I took the ground on the left front frame rail along with the one on the right front, behind the headlights and cleaned them. I also cleaned the one in the battery compartment area, the eyelet ones. The ground assembly on the right side didn't have the little grey clip fastened to the back side of the housing. The ones thats look to surround the wires going into the housing. So I tapped that up with some electrical tape. I reset all the codes and started the car up. Ran it for about 20 minutes, shut it down, and checked the codes. I was getting a U1160HC in the 60-IPC, in the HVAC I got a U1060HC, along with the others pertaining to the left actuator. The LDCM shows no comm., I had another U1060 code, but I can't remember which it was in. I am also getting low oil level on the display, but I am on a hill, and it got dark, so I couldn't check it, but it should be fine as I just had an oil change about a month ago.
Now on the LDCM, as I said before the switches aren't luminated or working, so I popped the switch assembly out and tapped on the door control module and it lit back up and worked, but then the lights went back out, tapped it again and they came back on. This happened several times.

Again, could all of these problems be from that clear covered wire in the door harness? Or Something else? Sorry for the long post, just need some help!!!

 

If you can make it work by tapping on it, maybe if you remove the door panel and start moving wires around you can find the one that is causing a problem. Of course, it could still be one of the relays or a connection inside the door control module.... I hate electrical problems.

I was going to Lowe's at lunch, and my passenger side window would not roll down again. I just replaced both window regulators about a year ago. I could hear it click, but nothing moved. I held the button down, and tapped on the door panel, and it went down. I rolled it up and down 8 or 10 times, and everything was normal again. I wish we could figure out what really causes these windows to suddenly quit working. It does not seem to matter if you roll them down a lot, or only once in awhile. They can quit anytime.

 

If I were you, I would first take care of the serial DATA wires (in BOTH doors) in the accordion (Door hinge) areas.

Also check all related connectors. Make sure the individual pins in all connectors are actually making an electrical connection. (EACH pin being tight and corrosion free)

Do the same with the door module and window motor connectors.

The serial DATA bus wire that runs through both doors and elsewhere will cause MANY seemingly unrelated functions to stop, act in strange manners, etc., if that wire(s) is either shorted to ground or “open” (broken apart). (Especially when “shorted”)

AFTER you are sure the electrical connections are good, then move on to the components if needed.

 

Did the liquid tape fix on the serial data wires. The clear sheathed one was exposed! I coated it with the liquid tape. Took the car out for a drive and everything went well, except the window deal. Because I didn't put the switch back in all the way and left a screwdriver in the car I just popped the switch assembly out, tapped the DCM and the switches luminated and worked again. That happened a couple times with the same results, tap it, and everything starts to work again. I have another DCM on the way from another member. Hopefully that will fix the window problem!!!

 

You might want to have your battery tested to make sure that this isn't an underlying low battery issue.

I know when mine was getting low a lot of things on the car started to bug out - Dixievet's car as well......

 

I had the issue about a year ago. I found that direct driving the motor caused it to operate up. After talking it over with some people learned that a common cause is the separate window motor ground in the door to body harness interface. This connector is in the footwell behind the lower trim. take apart clean dielectric grease etc and reinstall may cure your failure.

 

I had the same problem. The connector needed cleaning like one guy talked about. I had no power to the passenger door. It was very easy to fix. Bunk