DIY Alignment Tools?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 3
From: Ottawa Ontario, Canada
DIY Alignment Tools?
Who out there does their own alignments and what tools do you use? Is there a convenient kit that's reasonably priced that makes this relatively easy and very precise?
Last time I aligned my '02Z with a tape measure, a long straight edge, a plumb bob, ruler and trigonometry, and although I got a near perfect alignment when I was done, the process took the better part of an entire day. I'm not that patient anymore.
Help is appreciated!
Last time I aligned my '02Z with a tape measure, a long straight edge, a plumb bob, ruler and trigonometry, and although I got a near perfect alignment when I was done, the process took the better part of an entire day. I'm not that patient anymore.
Help is appreciated!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
I did some searching for tools the other day myself, but did not find anything I would buy.
I could not even find an inexpensive tram to at least check toe-in. They are either too flimsy, or too high tech (lasers, etc.) and probably no more accurate than the mechanical methods.
Let me know if you find anything.
I could not even find an inexpensive tram to at least check toe-in. They are either too flimsy, or too high tech (lasers, etc.) and probably no more accurate than the mechanical methods.
Let me know if you find anything.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,275
Likes: 5
From: Lake Oswego, Near Portland Oregon
I use a professional camber gauge made by Longacre, and do the toe in by setting up a 'string box' around the car. My camber gauge is an older model, similar to this http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...d=1299&catid=5 but with a bubble level and degree marks rather than digital readout
The string box....
This is a set of bars transverse to the direction of the car, one in front and one in back, They have string guides notched into them at exactly equal width, about 10 inches wider than the car. They are set at a height that is at wheel centerline. A nylon mono-filiment string is then stretched from the front to the rear on each side about 5 inches from the car. Fist you center the strings accurately by measuring from string to wheel center and start adjusting. Once you have the precisinly parallel strings exactly centered on the car, you simply measure from the string to the forward and rearward edge of each rim and adjust the toe to suit. It takes about as much time to describe the setup as it does to set up the real thing. Castor is very stable once set the way you like it...Have that done in real alignment shop..after that, you can play with camber and toe in at low cost and quickly too, if you have a basic camber gauge and are clever enough to make the frames for the string box from 2x4s. Back in the late 60s and early 70s almost every race team had a string box setup in the pits. It is accurate enough to do a 200+MPH formula car with WWIIIIDDDEEEE slicks, so don't worry, if your careful, you can do really good chassis centerline referenced toe in adjusting...Bigger question is DO YOU KNOW HOW DIFFERENT ALIGNMENTS WILL CHANGE THE HANDLING???????? If you do, fine..If you are just trying to get to the crummy factory settings on the cheap, then I suggest you need a course in suspension design and theory. There are several good books and a few websites out there that can help you learn. One of the best is worth searching for, published in the 70s is "Advanced Race Car Suspension Design and Analysis" by Steve Smith. Fred Puhn's "How to Make Your Car Handle" is still in print after 30 years and a good place to start for the basics...
The string box....
This is a set of bars transverse to the direction of the car, one in front and one in back, They have string guides notched into them at exactly equal width, about 10 inches wider than the car. They are set at a height that is at wheel centerline. A nylon mono-filiment string is then stretched from the front to the rear on each side about 5 inches from the car. Fist you center the strings accurately by measuring from string to wheel center and start adjusting. Once you have the precisinly parallel strings exactly centered on the car, you simply measure from the string to the forward and rearward edge of each rim and adjust the toe to suit. It takes about as much time to describe the setup as it does to set up the real thing. Castor is very stable once set the way you like it...Have that done in real alignment shop..after that, you can play with camber and toe in at low cost and quickly too, if you have a basic camber gauge and are clever enough to make the frames for the string box from 2x4s. Back in the late 60s and early 70s almost every race team had a string box setup in the pits. It is accurate enough to do a 200+MPH formula car with WWIIIIDDDEEEE slicks, so don't worry, if your careful, you can do really good chassis centerline referenced toe in adjusting...Bigger question is DO YOU KNOW HOW DIFFERENT ALIGNMENTS WILL CHANGE THE HANDLING???????? If you do, fine..If you are just trying to get to the crummy factory settings on the cheap, then I suggest you need a course in suspension design and theory. There are several good books and a few websites out there that can help you learn. One of the best is worth searching for, published in the 70s is "Advanced Race Car Suspension Design and Analysis" by Steve Smith. Fred Puhn's "How to Make Your Car Handle" is still in print after 30 years and a good place to start for the basics...
Pro
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 635
Likes: 0
From: Mc Farland Wisconsin
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,801
Likes: 13
From: Anywhere where Cones need hit
Cruise-In 9-10 Veteran
CI-X Auto-X Champ (race tires)
St. Jude Donor '07-'09
There's a "Smart camber" out there and the same company sells a DIY kit for alignment as well... Grassroots motorsports mag has them in their classifieds... many companies sell kits.
Longacre makes some great products.
Longacre makes some great products.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 356
From: Northville, MI
A very simple and inexpensive set up is to get 2 pieces of 1/2" conduit 8 ft long, a 17.5" piece and a 18.5" piece (for a C5). Sears Craftsman Digital laser level, 2" high PVC pipe, 4 jack stands, cheapest set of 12" kitchen tiles you can find, and marking pen.
Find a fairly level spot to measure and place the car, mark center of wheel and all 4 sides. Roll car out of the way and place the level in center of one of the spots. Measure where laser hits the PVC pipe and mark with pen. Then place the PVC in the middle of other 3 tire spots and level with tiles as needed.
Place car back on the spots and set jack stands front and back. Take the conduit and cut 1/4 thru 72" apart. Take string and tie it to the cut marks and then box in the car. Raise jack stand so the string is taught and level with front and rear spindles and equal distance from on both sides. Measure toe (difference of front and rear on tire). Use 17.5" conduit and digital level, place on front wheel and measure camber. Do likewise with remaining wheels.
Find a fairly level spot to measure and place the car, mark center of wheel and all 4 sides. Roll car out of the way and place the level in center of one of the spots. Measure where laser hits the PVC pipe and mark with pen. Then place the PVC in the middle of other 3 tire spots and level with tiles as needed.
Place car back on the spots and set jack stands front and back. Take the conduit and cut 1/4 thru 72" apart. Take string and tie it to the cut marks and then box in the car. Raise jack stand so the string is taught and level with front and rear spindles and equal distance from on both sides. Measure toe (difference of front and rear on tire). Use 17.5" conduit and digital level, place on front wheel and measure camber. Do likewise with remaining wheels.
