so im getting ready to replace both front wheel hub/bearings on my car using this DIY write up http://www.jakelatham.com/C5/misc/ i got a few questions.

1. do torque measurements have to be exact? or are they the minimum required?

2. will i need loctite?

any helpfull info will be greatly appreciated.

TIA

 

No, they don't have to be exact (sometimes you just can't use a torque wrench in tight spaces) but the closer you can get the better of course.

I would recommend using either acetone or fingernail polish remover (contains acetone) and a wire brush to remove any old thread locker from the mounting bolts and the bolts holes. Then use a couple of drops of red Loc-Tite.

HTH

 

I used the method from that writeup that you referenced, and it works great. You definitely don't need to undo the top ball joint or the sway bar, as called for in the shop manual. Just undo the tie rod end and lower ball joint, and rotate the bracket to access the bolts.

Breaking the lower ball joint without the pickle fork is a little tough. I have a heavy lead hammer that I use for the spinners on my wire wheels on an old Jaguar. After beating the wood block for 10 minutes and getting nowhere, I got the lead hammer out, and hit the front lip of the lower A-arm a couple of times, and the ball joint came right out of the spindle. Same on the other side.

When you put the bolts back in to the upright to secure the bearing unit, you must use red Loctite. The torque figures he give (96 ft.lbs. for the bearing bolts IIRC) is what you need to torque to. Don't over-torque them, as you don't want to stretch them and lose strength.

Other than that, it's a very straightforward job. Just read through that write-up and you'll see how it works. Best of luck with it.

BTW, I installed the SKF racing bearings. And excellent product. I got them from Pfadt. They are about twice the cost of the Timken bearings, but in street use, should last for just about ever. For track use, they should last a whole season or longer, vs. a few events for the Timkens.

 

I agree on the Pfadt bearings. They are relatively new and appear to be pretty damn tough.

 

I was going to tidy up my suspension and rotor/brake cosmetics. One car only has 30K on it. Should I change my bearings anyway while I'm at it as they are going on 9 years old now? Where did you get the Pfadt bearings and how much, please?

 

These particular bearings are mileage/usage dependent and not age dependent. In other words, unless you have been engaging in a lot of track time (cornering specifically) or you've bounced off a couple curbs, then with 30K street miles, your still good for quite awhile and the age (9 years) is not really a consideration at all.

BTW, that was FasterIsBetter that installed the Pfadt bearings not me. I'm just a big fan. He said he got them from Pfadt and are about twice the price of Timkens (which I'm running now). That would put them somewhere between $300 and $400 EACH.

HTH

 

January 2009 issue of Corvette Magazine has step by step with photos...

 

When pounding the knuckle with the hammer check every now and then to see if the lower ball joint stud has loosened. There isn't any real spring pressure pulling it down so it isn't always obvious the stud is loose.

Bill

 

Sorry for the confusion. I had no idea they were that expensive. I think mine are fine. Now I know they are.



BTW, I try to remember to paste my threads with copper before remounting wheels and tires. I know that is another metal to react with things touching it but it seems to work for me and I get no problems with stuck lugs and broken studs.

 

Please explain this,

 

 

Copper is a primary constituent of several anti-seize compounds. Available in stick and liquid. Check out the following links:


http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Copper.../dp/B0006Q7H36

http://www.sealingdevices.com/loctite/c5a.html

HTH,
Tex_Vette

 

http://www.valco-cp.com/Anti-Seize.htm

It works is all I can say. Esp good when on trailers and even better on them that are exposed to saltwater. Also great for racers as the high temps don't fuse the aluminum lugs to the threads. Most of the time the threads separate but occasionally you end up breaking the stud trying to get the lugs off if you don't use some sort of anti-seize to clear that up.

 

Yes BUT----Anti seize, or any lube, throws off the torque readings!

 

I don't torque mine. I tighten by feel. I know that's not the best way but I've never had one loosen nor get put on too tight. I always loosen mine and retighten after anyone mounts my wheels for me, too. And I do torque head bolts and such.

How much does it throw it off, BTW?

 

all done..took me about 4 hours for both sides. most of that time was removing the old locktite on the bolts

 

"Unless specifically stated otherwise, wheel lug torque specifications are for clean and dry threads (no lubricant) that are free of dirt, grit, etc. Applying oil, grease or anti-seize lubricants to the threads will result in inaccurate torque values that over tighten the wheels."

That is quote from Tire Rack's website, but the same info can be found in many other places, especily from many manufacturers.



bh

 

Great information in this thread! Just what I needed to get the rest of the details.

 

Oh I believe you. I just don't think it's necessary to torque lugs for ordinary driving. Someone may flame me for it though.

 

Consider yourself flamed. Seriously, torquing is a good idea for the benefit of the wheels, rotors, and peace of mind.