New Shifter
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Richwood NJ
New Shifter
Having issues with my stock shifter. I think maybe it's been modified for a shorter throw, but I'm not the original owner, so I'm not too sure. Either way, it's been acting up on me and I've decided to take advantage of the Christmas season. Any recommendations? I'm looking at the B&M Ripper right now, but have also seen a lot of recommendations for the Hurst. Anyone want to vouch for the B&M. I've been told the B&M bushings are Aluminum and thus superior to the stock ones. Does the Hurst come with new ones? Aluminum?
Also, heard good things about MGW. http://www.mgwltd.com/corvette_short..._shifter.shtml
Also, heard good things about MGW. http://www.mgwltd.com/corvette_short..._shifter.shtml
Pro
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 587
Likes: 0
From: Toronto Ontario
Ive had the B&M and hurst both are junk compared to the MGW. Both the junk shifter rattled and had noise. The MGW is smooth with no vibration no rattle and no noise. Hands down the best shifter on the market for the C5/C6 corvette and George is a super great guy to deal with
Rob
Rob
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Richwood NJ
How's the "side-to-side" action on the MGW? This is going in my daily driver and I don't want anything too stiff. However, right now I'm working with a stock C5 that was shortened. It's stiff AND sloppy at the same time... awful. So I'm pretty sure anything would be an improvement right now.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 208
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
I have the MGW and I love it. I can't speak for the other aftermarket shifters, but compared to the stock one the MGW is miles better. As far as the feel of the shifter it was be a bit stiff at first, but after about a week it smoothed out significantly. There is no heavy centering spring. The MGW used the centering springs built into the transmission.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Richwood NJ
Cool cool. Did you guys have to re-use the stock boot? I'm hearing conflicting stories of people cutting theirs, others just pulling it over... not sure what anyone is talking about though cause I haven't played with this thing yet. Also, some shifters come with solid bushing as opposed to the rubbery stock ones. It looks like the MGW uses the stock ones. I was reading in THIS THREAD how it's good to replace the bushings. I've got about 90k on a 99. Should these be replaced? If so, how? THANKS GUYS!
Oh yeah, also... what **** are you guys using. It looks like the MGW gripper has a lot of extra "length" to it at the base. This appears to add to the throw, but I could be wrong. I'm looking to go with a "billiard" ball style shift **** which of course wouldn't have the extra base that the MGW Gripper does. Is this going to make my throw even shorter? Too short even?
Oh yeah, also... what **** are you guys using. It looks like the MGW gripper has a lot of extra "length" to it at the base. This appears to add to the throw, but I could be wrong. I'm looking to go with a "billiard" ball style shift **** which of course wouldn't have the extra base that the MGW Gripper does. Is this going to make my throw even shorter? Too short even?
Last edited by Pineapple1; Dec 17, 2008 at 09:23 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,375
Likes: 1,593
From: Western NY
I have a Hurst shifter in my C-5. I don't drive the car a lot, however the unit has been in place for 7 years, and I'm very happy with it. I also have a round, aluminum shift ball that I purchased from Zip Products, IIRC, as well as a "short" boot that I think I purchased from 'Vette Essentials.
Before you toss the shifter you now have, make sure that it's adjusted properly. If you remove the boot, you'll see the shift rod that goes down the left side of the tunnel. There's a clamp on the rod, and a hole in the clamp that's supposed to line up with a corresponding hole in the shift rod, when the shifter is in "neutral".
The factory also provides a pin that goes through the shift rod, holding the clamp and rod in place while being adjusted. It's usually found on a clip that's part of the shifter. If these two "gauge holes" aren't in alignment, you should loosen the clamp, and make the necessary adjustment.
Before you toss the shifter you now have, make sure that it's adjusted properly. If you remove the boot, you'll see the shift rod that goes down the left side of the tunnel. There's a clamp on the rod, and a hole in the clamp that's supposed to line up with a corresponding hole in the shift rod, when the shifter is in "neutral".
The factory also provides a pin that goes through the shift rod, holding the clamp and rod in place while being adjusted. It's usually found on a clip that's part of the shifter. If these two "gauge holes" aren't in alignment, you should loosen the clamp, and make the necessary adjustment.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Richwood NJ
Well, to be honest I'm kind of just taking advantage of the holiday season here.... already dropped $250 on my significant other so she's going to return the favor! I'll still check out the adjustment though. How about those bushings? Any advice on replacing them? I think the MGW reuses the stock bushings right?
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
The C5 coupe and convertible came oem with rubber bushings. The Z06 came with metal bushings. The former allows for less vibration/noise. The latter allows for more precise feel and will not deteriorate. They might allow more vibration/noise. The bushings isolate the shifter above the torque tube. They're oval in shape and stepped in design.
When you R&R your shifter, inspect the bushings for type and any signs of deterioration. If they're rubber and cracked, replace them with new rubber or metal.
All C5/Z06 models used the same shifter...in fact all shifters from '97 to '08 ('09?) are basically the same stamped metal construction except for the ergonomic ****, manner of **** attachment, boot, and bent back lever.
You can probably still use your oem C5/Z06 boot. You might have to slightly modify it at the top portion. Some owners have done this with the also popular C6/Z06 shifters. Snip some threads, roll in under and zip tie. Or you can buy an after market boot from several sources.
As to using the oem **** on the MGW, that I am not certain of. Maybe a message to MGW would answer that? Or here's someone with a similar question...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...rent-****.html
When you R&R your shifter, inspect the bushings for type and any signs of deterioration. If they're rubber and cracked, replace them with new rubber or metal.
All C5/Z06 models used the same shifter...in fact all shifters from '97 to '08 ('09?) are basically the same stamped metal construction except for the ergonomic ****, manner of **** attachment, boot, and bent back lever.
You can probably still use your oem C5/Z06 boot. You might have to slightly modify it at the top portion. Some owners have done this with the also popular C6/Z06 shifters. Snip some threads, roll in under and zip tie. Or you can buy an after market boot from several sources.
As to using the oem **** on the MGW, that I am not certain of. Maybe a message to MGW would answer that? Or here's someone with a similar question...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...rent-****.html
Last edited by hotwheels57; Dec 18, 2008 at 11:24 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
Having issues with my stock shifter. I think maybe it's been modified for a shorter throw, but I'm not the original owner, so I'm not too sure. Either way, it's been acting up on me and I've decided to take advantage of the Christmas season. Any recommendations? I'm looking at the B&M Ripper right now, but have also seen a lot of recommendations for the Hurst. Anyone want to vouch for the B&M. I've been told the B&M bushings are Aluminum and thus superior to the stock ones. Does the Hurst come with new ones? Aluminum?
Also, heard good things about MGW. http://www.mgwltd.com/corvette_short..._shifter.shtml
Also, heard good things about MGW. http://www.mgwltd.com/corvette_short..._shifter.shtml
Are you sure the shifter is causing the problems?
You don't want to install a new shifter, only to find the shifter was not the problem at all. There is not much you can do to a stock shifter to modify it other than shorten the shaft. I have not seen anyone try to modify the internal part.
By the way, I have had a Hurst for over 5 years, and would not go back to the stock shifter, but it does take more effort to shift since the leverage is reduced. What you gain as far as precise feel is worth the switch.
for the MGW
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 137
Likes: 1
From: Wisconsin
I have had the Hurst for 3 yrs. now without a single vibration, noise, etc. It shifts nice and side to side motion is quick and easy. I took my time installing and started with the stock springs. I hammer it pretty good and (so far) have not missed a shift.