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Hello- I have a 2000 C-5 w/ 11,000mi. I pulled it out of the garage the other week. Drove about a block and the brakes locked up. It could not go forward or backward (and yes the parking brake was disengaged). It sat for a day or two. I started it and was able to barely get it back to my garage when they locked up again. The brake pedal almost seems frozen. Any suggestions before I call the local dealer whose Service Manager, unfortunatly, is not the best.
Thanks, KR
Are all 4 wheels locked, or just one?
Check brake hoses to make sure they have not deteriorated on the inside. They can look good outside, and still crack on the inside and collapse, resulting in a check valve effect.
I would guess that if all 4 are locked up that the master cylinder piston is riding in a sheath of corrosion, and not returning to "off" location.
i would put a small foil bread pan under the brake lines and crack them to bleed off the pressure.
Be sure to wrap them in a rag to keep the flying brake fluid from landing on your paint and making permanent spots where the paint gets eaten to the composite.
Brake fluid is the very best paint remover.
With the car immobile, slowly apply the brakes, and if they lock again, remove the master cylinder from the booster and check to see that the piston has or has not returned to the snap ring.
If it hasn't, it's a new master, if it did, the booster might need adjusting.
I wouldn't rebuild the old master if it's had this situation.
Last edited by coupeguy2001; Dec 22, 2008 at 07:30 PM.
Then slowly apply the brakes, and if they lock again, remove the master cylinder from the booster and check to see that the piston has or has not returned to the snap ring.
The OP's brakes have already lockup up twice, why go for a third? Get this fixed bro, don't attempt to drive the car.
Here's a dumb question that I truly don't know the answer to in relation to the OP's problem. If he was loosing vacuum to the brake booster, would that cause the brakes to lock or not apply to limited apply... or just more difficult to apply the brakes? I've never disconnected one to find out what the result would be.
Sometimes, if the emergency brake is used infrequently, the cable and/or inside of the cable housing will corrode and when you release the brake the handle will go down but the cable doesn't release.
Last edited by PierEagle; Dec 20, 2008 at 03:30 AM.
The OP's brakes have already lockup up twice, why go for a third? Get this fixed bro, don't attempt to drive the car.
If you crack the bleeder as described and get fluid out under pressure there would be no need to do it again.
I've seen something similar twice. Once was only one wheel and the rubber line had separated internally and would not release pressure to the caliper.
The other time was both front wheels when I had a brain fart and let a shop put pads on the car (not the Corvette). They used the wrong pads and the pads themselves were locking into the side of the caliper and would not retract.
There's a pretty exhaustive diagnostic in the service manual that the dealer's service tech will go through if you take it in so why not go through it yourself first to see if you can determine the problem? It will probably lead you to the problem if you take the time to read and apply it.
I can email all the relevant procedures if you're up to it. Send your email addy, model and year. It does require familiarity with the braking system - you might want to engage the help of a gear-head buddy if you're not ready to dive in that deep yourself. The braking system is pretty complex with hydraulics, electronics, mechanics and computer control sub-systems so thorough and careful troubleshooting is a must.
Thanks for the great advice everyone. I am not mechanically inclined at all and live in an area that dosen't have many technicians around. I am going with the parking brake cable suggestion first since the problem started right after the pb was applied. If that does not work, I will take it to the local dealership. I'll post an update when I get this resolved. Happy New Year All!!