Lowering Problem... Bolt Stripped
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 16
From: Anchorage Alaska
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
Lowering Problem... Bolt Stripped
Hi guys,
Ran into a problem while lowering my car on stock bolts today.
I got both of the rear bolts adjusted; as well as the front passenger side bolt. When I got to the front drivers side bolt, I ran into problems. The bolt was pretty stiff, and before I knew it, I had stripped it. I was using a closed-end 10mm wrench. I thought I had maybe ruined the wrench, so I went out and bought another. But, the same thing happened. The wrench just slips around the bolt without turning it (Though it tries to; it's not completely loose). The wrench was always firmly seated. But, it seemed like the metal on the bolt was so soft that the corners rounded off anyway.
Now I'm stuck. What can I do about this??
Ran into a problem while lowering my car on stock bolts today.
I got both of the rear bolts adjusted; as well as the front passenger side bolt. When I got to the front drivers side bolt, I ran into problems. The bolt was pretty stiff, and before I knew it, I had stripped it. I was using a closed-end 10mm wrench. I thought I had maybe ruined the wrench, so I went out and bought another. But, the same thing happened. The wrench just slips around the bolt without turning it (Though it tries to; it's not completely loose). The wrench was always firmly seated. But, it seemed like the metal on the bolt was so soft that the corners rounded off anyway.
Now I'm stuck. What can I do about this??
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
Did you use a jack to take the pressure off the spring?
Did you saturate the threaded portion of the adjustment bolt above the spring so it wicks down through the spring?
Did you apply lubricant to the rubber bushing and pry it off the control arm with a metal putty knife (vulcanized)?
I found that once I did those three preps, I could get the adjustment bolt loose enough that I didn't even need a 10mm wrench to make the adjustments.
Assuming the adjustment bolt isn't permanently rusted to the insert in the spring, the only option now is to use VICE GRIPS on the adjustment bolt or weld a nut to the top of the adjustment bolt.
If it is permanently rusted to the insert in the spring, you might find yourself taking your front suspension down to the point where you can remove the spring and/or replace the spring...it's happened to other owners as well.
Did you saturate the threaded portion of the adjustment bolt above the spring so it wicks down through the spring?
Did you apply lubricant to the rubber bushing and pry it off the control arm with a metal putty knife (vulcanized)?
I found that once I did those three preps, I could get the adjustment bolt loose enough that I didn't even need a 10mm wrench to make the adjustments.
Assuming the adjustment bolt isn't permanently rusted to the insert in the spring, the only option now is to use VICE GRIPS on the adjustment bolt or weld a nut to the top of the adjustment bolt.
If it is permanently rusted to the insert in the spring, you might find yourself taking your front suspension down to the point where you can remove the spring and/or replace the spring...it's happened to other owners as well.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 10,233
Likes: 21
From: Baltimore suburbs Maryland
Did you use a jack to take the pressure off the spring?
Did you saturate the threaded portion of the adjustment bolt above the spring so it wicks down through the spring?
Did you apply lubricant to the rubber bushing and pry it off the control arm with a metal putty knife (vulcanized)?
I found that once I did those three preps, I could get the adjustment bolt loose enough that I didn't even need a 10mm wrench to make the adjustments.
Assuming the adjustment bolt isn't permanently rusted to the insert in the spring, the only option now is to use VICE GRIPS on the adjustment bolt or weld a nut to the top of the adjustment bolt.
If it is permanently rusted to the insert in the spring, you might find yourself taking your front suspension down to the point where you can remove the spring and/or replace the spring...it's happened to other owners as well.
Did you saturate the threaded portion of the adjustment bolt above the spring so it wicks down through the spring?
Did you apply lubricant to the rubber bushing and pry it off the control arm with a metal putty knife (vulcanized)?
I found that once I did those three preps, I could get the adjustment bolt loose enough that I didn't even need a 10mm wrench to make the adjustments.
Assuming the adjustment bolt isn't permanently rusted to the insert in the spring, the only option now is to use VICE GRIPS on the adjustment bolt or weld a nut to the top of the adjustment bolt.
If it is permanently rusted to the insert in the spring, you might find yourself taking your front suspension down to the point where you can remove the spring and/or replace the spring...it's happened to other owners as well.
took the words right out of my mouth.
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 138,750
Likes: 177
From: Poor pathetic little excuse for a boy
Are you taking the bolts out completely?? I've done three lowerings where I did and the leaf just lays on the bottom of the lower A...never had a problem...
I just did my FRC and left the bolt in so it would not go too low.
I just did my FRC and left the bolt in so it would not go too low.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 16
From: Anchorage Alaska
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
Thanks for the advice.
Regarding the six point socket... is there any chance that could work, if all I've tried using are 12-points? Meaning, can a 12 point slip around a bolt that a 6-point wouldn't? It should be easy enough to pick up those parts at the hardware store.
It looks like the instructions I found were over-simplistic. I looked at two sets of instructions, and they both consisted of basically raising the car, turning the bolts, lowering the car.
No mention was made of relieving pressure with a jack, or using a penetrating lubricant, or prying against bushings. So, no... I did not know to do any of these things. The other three wheels/corners were uneventful; Just this fourth one is acting up.
Can someone explain how to relieve the pressure in the spring with a jack? Such as, where to place it, and etc.? I think I need to do everything I can to "free up" this bolt, so that I can turn it with some vice grips later. That is, if the six-point route doesn't work.
Regarding the six point socket... is there any chance that could work, if all I've tried using are 12-points? Meaning, can a 12 point slip around a bolt that a 6-point wouldn't? It should be easy enough to pick up those parts at the hardware store.
It looks like the instructions I found were over-simplistic. I looked at two sets of instructions, and they both consisted of basically raising the car, turning the bolts, lowering the car.
No mention was made of relieving pressure with a jack, or using a penetrating lubricant, or prying against bushings. So, no... I did not know to do any of these things. The other three wheels/corners were uneventful; Just this fourth one is acting up.
Can someone explain how to relieve the pressure in the spring with a jack? Such as, where to place it, and etc.? I think I need to do everything I can to "free up" this bolt, so that I can turn it with some vice grips later. That is, if the six-point route doesn't work.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,052
Likes: 20
From: boston mass
Hi guys,
Ran into a problem while lowering my car on stock bolts today.
I got both of the rear bolts adjusted; as well as the front passenger side bolt. When I got to the front drivers side bolt, I ran into problems. The bolt was pretty stiff, and before I knew it, I had stripped it. I was using a closed-end 10mm wrench. I thought I had maybe ruined the wrench, so I went out and bought another. But, the same thing happened. The wrench just slips around the bolt without turning it (Though it tries to; it's not completely loose). The wrench was always firmly seated. But, it seemed like the metal on the bolt was so soft that the corners rounded off anyway.
Now I'm stuck. What can I do about this??
Ran into a problem while lowering my car on stock bolts today.
I got both of the rear bolts adjusted; as well as the front passenger side bolt. When I got to the front drivers side bolt, I ran into problems. The bolt was pretty stiff, and before I knew it, I had stripped it. I was using a closed-end 10mm wrench. I thought I had maybe ruined the wrench, so I went out and bought another. But, the same thing happened. The wrench just slips around the bolt without turning it (Though it tries to; it's not completely loose). The wrench was always firmly seated. But, it seemed like the metal on the bolt was so soft that the corners rounded off anyway.
Now I'm stuck. What can I do about this??
That's the old: I cut it 3 times and it's still to short
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 16
From: Anchorage Alaska
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...id=00952166000
What is the concensus here? yay/nay? It looks like these sockets are directional, and my logic tells me they will work for moving the adjusting bolt in the direction I need it to move (CCW from top). If I can just get the adjustment bolt turned to match where the other bolt was set, then I can be done with this.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
Thanks for the advice.
Regarding the six point socket... is there any chance that could work, if all I've tried using are 12-points? Meaning, can a 12 point slip around a bolt that a 6-point wouldn't? It should be easy enough to pick up those parts at the hardware store.
It looks like the instructions I found were over-simplistic. I looked at two sets of instructions, and they both consisted of basically raising the car, turning the bolts, lowering the car.
No mention was made of relieving pressure with a jack, or using a penetrating lubricant, or prying against bushings. So, no... I did not know to do any of these things. The other three wheels/corners were uneventful; Just this fourth one is acting up.
Can someone explain how to relieve the pressure in the spring with a jack? Such as, where to place it, and etc.? I think I need to do everything I can to "free up" this bolt, so that I can turn it with some vice grips later. That is, if the six-point route doesn't work.
Regarding the six point socket... is there any chance that could work, if all I've tried using are 12-points? Meaning, can a 12 point slip around a bolt that a 6-point wouldn't? It should be easy enough to pick up those parts at the hardware store.
It looks like the instructions I found were over-simplistic. I looked at two sets of instructions, and they both consisted of basically raising the car, turning the bolts, lowering the car.
No mention was made of relieving pressure with a jack, or using a penetrating lubricant, or prying against bushings. So, no... I did not know to do any of these things. The other three wheels/corners were uneventful; Just this fourth one is acting up.
Can someone explain how to relieve the pressure in the spring with a jack? Such as, where to place it, and etc.? I think I need to do everything I can to "free up" this bolt, so that I can turn it with some vice grips later. That is, if the six-point route doesn't work.
I used PB BLASTER sprayed into the little trough at the top of the spring, surrounding the threaded portion of the adjustment bolt above the spring. Spray and allow it to wick down the threads. I allowed it to sit overnight. When you can see it has wicked below the spring, you know the threads are fully lubricated.
Use the lubricant to saturate the bushing surface as you use the metal putty knife to release the vulcanized bushing from the control arm.
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 138,750
Likes: 177
From: Poor pathetic little excuse for a boy
Can someone explain how to relieve the pressure in the spring with a jack? Such as, where to place it, and etc.? I think I need to do everything I can to "free up" this bolt, so that I can turn it with some vice grips later. That is, if the six-point route doesn't work.
As mentioned, I just did my FRC front and rears in about 45 minutes. Left the stock bolts in the rear and turned the front bolts all the way flush but did not take them out as I have in the past.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 16
From: Anchorage Alaska
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
I used a bottle jack, placed as close to the end of the spring as you can get it. You just need to relieve the pressure at the end of the spring/adjustment bolt against the control arm, not lift the car up.
I used PB BLASTER sprayed into the little trough at the top of the spring, surrounding the threaded portion of the adjustment bolt above the spring. Spray and allow it to wick down the threads. I allowed it to sit overnight. When you can see it has wicked below the spring, you know the threads are fully lubricated.
Use the lubricant to saturate the bushing surface as you use the metal putty knife to release the vulcanized bushing from the control arm.
I used PB BLASTER sprayed into the little trough at the top of the spring, surrounding the threaded portion of the adjustment bolt above the spring. Spray and allow it to wick down the threads. I allowed it to sit overnight. When you can see it has wicked below the spring, you know the threads are fully lubricated.
Use the lubricant to saturate the bushing surface as you use the metal putty knife to release the vulcanized bushing from the control arm.
Thanks for that advice. I think I need clarification on some terms here...
Looking at the following picture, from the instructions I used:
when you refer to "spring", are you speaking of the transverse-mounted black bar shown above, that the adjustment bolt runs through? When you speak of using a bottle jack to relieve pressure between the spring and the control arm... is the goal to get the bottle jack to directly contact the bottom of that black bar, as close to the bolt as possible, and then attempt to push it up and away?
I'm not as familiar with the nomenclature as I would like, as you can see. Thanks for any help!
Last edited by Alaskanpilot; Feb 4, 2009 at 06:54 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 16
From: Anchorage Alaska
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
OK, I'm a little confused here: On the fronts, isn't the way to lower the front, to turn the adjustment bolts so that they stick farther up in relation to the bar? (CCW)? When you say you turned them until they were flush... I can see that lowering the rear, but wouldn't that raise the front? Or maybe I just need new instructions.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
Use these eazy directions to lower your Z. http://www.corvetteforum.cc/techtips...D=90&TopicID=1 If you have goobered up the top of your adjusters to where you can't get a wrench on it you will be able to get a Lg set of channel locs or a small pipe wrench on the bottom hard rubber part of the adjuster and turn from there. If it were me, being that the top of your adjusters are allready screwed up, I'd turn the adjusters all the way out and put in aftermarket adjusters that all ready have the bushings removed. Good luck, and try and do a little research, next time before jumping in w/ the next DIY mod. 
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 21,915
Likes: 61
From: Miami Beach FL
Get this - http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...P?sid=BVReview All will be well. Also, make sure to soak the daylights out of the bolt with PB Blaster.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 16
From: Anchorage Alaska
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
Use these eazy directions to lower your Z. http://www.corvetteforum.cc/techtips...D=90&TopicID=1 If you have goobered up the top of your adjusters to where you can't get a wrench on it you will be able to get a Lg set of channel locs or a small pipe wrench on the bottom hard rubber part of the adjuster and turn from there. If it were me, being that the top of your adjusters are allready screwed up, I'd turn the adjusters all the way out and put in aftermarket adjusters that all ready have the bushings removed. Good luck, and try and do a little research, next time before jumping in w/ the next DIY mod.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 16
From: Anchorage Alaska
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
Get this - http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...P?sid=BVReview All will be well. Also, make sure to soak the daylights out of the bolt with PB Blaster.
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 138,750
Likes: 177
From: Poor pathetic little excuse for a boy
Thanks for that advice. I think I need clarification on some terms here...
Looking at the following picture, from the instructions I used:
when you refer to "spring", are you speaking of the transverse-mounted black bar shown above, that the adjustment bolt runs through?
YES
When you speak of using a bottle jack to relieve pressure between the spring and the control arm... is the goal to get the bottle jack to directly contact the bottom of that black bar, as close to the bolt as possible, and then attempt to push it up and away?
YES
I'm not as familiar with the nomenclature as I would like, as you can see. Thanks for any help!
Looking at the following picture, from the instructions I used:
when you refer to "spring", are you speaking of the transverse-mounted black bar shown above, that the adjustment bolt runs through?
YES
When you speak of using a bottle jack to relieve pressure between the spring and the control arm... is the goal to get the bottle jack to directly contact the bottom of that black bar, as close to the bolt as possible, and then attempt to push it up and away?
YES
I'm not as familiar with the nomenclature as I would like, as you can see. Thanks for any help!
OK, I'm a little confused here: On the fronts, isn't the way to lower the front, to turn the adjustment bolts so that they stick farther up in relation to the bar? (CCW)? When you say you turned them until they were flush... I can see that lowering the rear, but wouldn't that raise the front? Or maybe I just need new instructions.
Good luck man!
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 16
From: Anchorage Alaska
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
Everyone...
Thanks to alll the great advice, I solved this problem without spending a penny, and in about 10 minutes!
I let some PB Blaster soak in overnight; then used a bottle jack as suggested, to apply upward pressure on the spring. Sure enough, I was able to turn the adjustment bolt BY HAND. I ran it out to where I wanted it; lowered the suspension back down, put the tire back on... and now, all four corners are lowered. Though, the car still looks raised because it hasn't had the chance to settle.
Thanks again!
Thanks to alll the great advice, I solved this problem without spending a penny, and in about 10 minutes!
I let some PB Blaster soak in overnight; then used a bottle jack as suggested, to apply upward pressure on the spring. Sure enough, I was able to turn the adjustment bolt BY HAND. I ran it out to where I wanted it; lowered the suspension back down, put the tire back on... and now, all four corners are lowered. Though, the car still looks raised because it hasn't had the chance to settle.
Thanks again!
