Ok today I replaced both belts and took the battery out and cleaned under it.

I found a vacuum line broken and patched it put the battery back in the car and started it cleared all the codes and the AHS/TCS light came on with a service soon note on the display.

I tried reseting it several times with no luck, I promised my wife I would take her to a movie for her birthday so off we went with no AHS/TCS.

Got through the movie and we decided to go for a drive we had driven for an hour or so when all of the sudden we heard a floping noise from the rear end, I pulled over put couldn't see anything so off we went again about 30 minutes later we hear it again, I look and there is a plug hanging down and rubbing on the RR CV shaft, so I tied it up with one of her hair ties and off we go again ony this time we still hear a chafing type sound from the RR. We slowly limp along and all of the sudden it just stops.

As we are getting home it starts getting dark and I turn the lights on the shells come open and the lights come on however when i tried to turn the lights off the shell won't close and the blinkers only flash up front and they flash really fast.

Also the instrument cluster lights wont come on when you turn the lights on and the yellow running lights don't dim like they should.

Thanks

Well needless to say the day wasn't as fun as I hoped.

If you guys have any ideas I would appreciate a heads up.

 

Well, you are going to have to find where that plug came from, but will guess that the rubbing on the shaft probably trashed the wires on it. Will guess it was to the RR wheel speed sensor but its just a guess. You'll need to fix that, then pull the codes to find out what else happened.

 

Ok I found a broken gound wire coming out of the fuse block right in front of the battery I must have bumped it with the battery.

When I hold it to ground it the message inside changes from service soon to service TCS/AHS.

As for the other wire under the RR I havent put thecar on my lft yet this morning.

The plug appears to be my rear blinkers because they dont seem to be working.

Side effect to that is when I hit the key fob lock button the car starts honking and the headlights won't shut.

John

 

WOW I fixed the broken ground and the TCS no comm went away then I was still getting two fails.

So I went under the car and the RR cv shaft grabbed the wiring that runs over the transmission and splits and goes to each wheel and something on the back of the car and chewed it all up. the center part of the wiring and the LR are still there but everything going to the RR and the tap going to the back of the car are all gone.

Where can I get one of those and where is the next disconnect at under the car?

 

Are you talking about the speed sensors on the hubs?

 

Yeah I guess the RR speed sensor wiring harness got caught in the RR cv shaft and it rolled up and jamed itself in the gap in between the cv shaft and the diff. It then pulled the tail light wiring harness loose, all that was left is about two inches of bare wire sticking out of the transmission wiring harness.

This harness runs from the front of the car through the torque tube all the way back to the top of the transmission where it goes to both speed sensors and the tail lights.

I just ordered another one from gmpartshouse.com.

If it had just been the speed sensor I would have just spliced a new one in, but since it damaged the main harness I would rather replace it.

I couldn't find a wrecked car to steal the right side off of. The one place that had one in MO wanted 10 dollars less for it than a new one costs.

So the moral to the story is when a shop replaces your torque tube, clutch and flywheel make sure they tied your harness back down the right way.

 

Just got an e-mail from Gmpartshouse.com saying they would get the harness out to me ASAP.

On a second note I pulled my truck out of the shop to drive it instead of the z06 and found out rats chewed through the shifter boots and got in the cab so they could drink my windshield washer fluid. When will it end?

 

Get a cat, but put a cover on the Corvette first.

 

Did you ever bother to use the DIC to see what diagnostic codes were present while you were doing any of this stuff? Might help you to determine what caused the intial problem and any subsequent problems that show up after you get the wiring fixed.

Bill

 

Yeah, was thinking the same thing but with shorting wires and so on, I'm guessing the best he can do is to write down whatever codes he's got, clear them, then see what happens after that.

 

The day it happened I had just pulled the battery up to check for corrosion and vacuum leaks and when I did I broke the ground that goes to ebcm and so the tcs/abr lights came on the dash. So when it happened I got no codes that it had happened.

When I fixed the ground on the TCS it told me the RR wheel speed sensor was open so I looked under there and saw the carnage. What happened was the shop that put my flywheel and clutch in didn’t put the brake line clips that go under my cv shafts back on and also didn’t secure the transmission wiring harness to the differential so when an opportunity occurred for the harness to move it did and it began to rub on the cv shaft which destroyed it.

I ordered a new harness from gm parts house and I have it almost put in. I had to drop the exhaust, tunnel plate rear suspension, transmission and torque tube to give myself enough room to change it. (I have large hands)

When I did that I noticed that my exhaust was loose and the tunnel plate was not tight. I am really disappointed I was planning on having this same shop build my motor, but after this my plans have changed.

I’m positive that unless the wires shorting blew the computer that once the new harness is installed all will be well again.


I left the shop a message and it’s been a week and they haven’t returned my calls.

 

Yeah, find someone who knows what they are doing and can back it up with proof rather than just some shop out there that claims they know what they are doing. How you can do that is anyone's guess. Start here, by asking other forum members for your area.

 

Well I did that, and this particular shop actually races corvettes and is well respected but never the less they didn't do that great on my car.

I had all this work done back at the beginning of August 2008 and at the time I had a company vehicle so I basically never drove my vette. Recently I turned my company car in and started driving the vette, so finding this stuff out was a little postponed.

I have installed the new harness and put aircraft clamps on my brake lines where they run underneath the cv shafts. The new harness came with a gold colored clamp that attaches to the differential and secures the harness.

While I have the car torn down I found the source of a strange rattle that I would hear every time I hit a seam in the road. On my calipers there is a little metal clip that goes in the apertures where when assembled you could view the brake pads and the fins inside the rotor. There are little metal tabs on this clip and when they become bent in toward themselves they allow the clip to rattle around inside the caliper. I'm not sure what they are for or if they are necessary but if you want to tighten them up you can take a large common screw driver and bend the tabs back up and down respectively and then they won't rattle any more.

I also installed a set of EE frame sliders and I was really impressed by how sturdy they seem to be.

Hey does anyone know what my lower oil pan fasteners are supposed to be torqued to?

 

Well I put her back together today before work and I have no dtc's other than the the HVAC.

I still don't have tail lights and brake lights but my blinkers are working now. Also the headlights came up as soon as I plugged the battery back in and when I turn the headlight switch on the headlights come on but the DRL don't dim.

I think when the harness went it blew some fuses or relays, I'm told that there is another fuse box on the passenger side but I don't know where it is. All the fuses under the hood checked good.

 

Under the passenger footwell, you will find that it is removeable. That's where the BCM, another fuse panel and radio amp are located. Have you tried cycling the hazard switch yet? That has a tendency to cause issues, along with failing contacts in the headlamp switch and the iginition switch itself. I suggest a PM to Bill Curlee

 

Ok I checked all the fuses and found three blown I replaced them paneled the car back up and everything checks well.

So to sum it up after a new transmission wiring harness and three fuses my car is back to normal. FWI when I put use number 6 back in the headlights went back down.

 

If anybody can help me with this problem i would really appeciate it. for the fist 15 min. they work fine then they dont work for a while , and then evry once in a while they work. i tried replacing the combonation switch that was not the problem. thank for any info you may have

 

Also the contacts in the turn signal switch can become dirty and not make good contact.