dhirocz

I was just wondering if there was any fitment issues I need to be aware of with using an LS7 block in a '98 Vette. I want to run it with a C5 pan and pickup and not use the oil tank or anything. Basically, I want to use my parts and that block to build an LS7 with a wet sump C5 pan setup, 24x reluctor and feed and return rails with the correct injectors.

I havent found anything online that said I couldnt...I just wanted to be sure before I committed myself to finding a block.

Arent the front/rear covers different as well?

AU N EGL

dont think LS1 parts fit on the LS7.

minitech

Can an LS1 block be bored/stroked to 427ci?

dmiz0420

no it needs to be re sleeved, but I'm not sure it can reach the 427 displacement.

I know 427 fit in C5's but I havn't herd of any ls1 parts being swapped from engine to engine.

Chris@East Coast Supercharging

We have done a few LS7 blocks in C5's and everything is interchangable

ezrider4u2

I had a new LS6 block bored and wet sleeved. It is a 427 and all of my 540+ RWHP and 512 RWTQ will attest to it.

Seriously, the LS blocks can be wet sleeved, it is so cool how those sleeves look The shop had the old block sitting on the floor and the new block on the stand and the thing was just a work of art.

This is what it looks like in the car.

Mike94ZLT1

How much does that cost though? Isn't it far more cost effective to use something like an LS3 or L92 block that already has a much larger bore? And don't you have to use goofy coolant with a wet sleeve block?

2ndVette

there are a number of things that you need to keep in mind with this swap.

You can use your batwing oil pan, but a better oil pan is the LS2. You will need a conversion wiring kit. You will need to relocate the anti knock sensors to the side of the LS7 block (and use LS2 sensors). Your starter will be too long for clearance, get an LS7 starter. You will need to fashion a brace to support your relocated PCM. You will need an LS2 front cover. Make sure that you buy the LS7 block from a vendor that has already drilled out a dipstick hole (if you want to run wet sump). You already appear to know about the relucter wheel.

That is off the top of my head. More I am sure. There are probably less than 50 C5s with this swap in the country so, you are right, there is not a lot of places to go to seek help.

Good luck with yours.

2ndVette

oops. one more. The passenger side motor mount boss, one of the bosses will need to be shaved off.

ezrider4u2

The Darton wet sleeve set up alone is normally almost $3K alone. As for the coolant, we're still using the GM coolant as used in the cars originally. I will tell you that one of the factors actually that came into play for me was the cost. You see this particular set up had been up for sale by the builder to another customer who put up a $1500 deposit and then backed out and lost his deposit. So the builder sold me the complete set up for $5500 well under regular price just to get it moved. I saved about $2500 dollars all together. Also the LS6 and LS1 are basically interchangeable so very few things as far as the fuel system had to be swapped out. Especially these early production years suck as far as bugs and weird little items The money I saved on the block and the fuel delivery I put into other things.

I had a H/C package done one the stock motor before so I was able to re-use such items as the Trickflow heads and the cam. Now I may be upgrading the H&C again. You see this engine is putting so much power and torque down that it needs bigger heads (something I should have anticipated before). A larger cam will help me get the most out the motor as possible. Even so I'm still putting good numbers down right now but I can see in the graphs how the engine lays over once it reaches the limits of the H/C past the 540 RWHP. With the proper H/C I could be looking at 600 RWHP easily and well over 550 RWTQ.

Sorry I talk a lot.

RC45

I have had no issues so far using the LS6 pan on my motor. I use a stock LS1/LS6 starter and dont seem to have any problems with the PCM in the stock location.

I am sure there are way more than 50 C5's with LS7's installed - if not, I guess my car just went up in value due to rarity (I know for sure it is the only Z06 based LS7 Z07 )

dhirocz

I should have specified, the parts I have a NIB 427ci parts for a 24x LS7.
OK, fitting the engine shouldnt be a problem. I have a 2 piece batwing for this motor, I didnt want to loose any oil capacity...but if it becomes a problem, I can always go with the LS2. I know the longtubes will be rather tight with the batwing in place.

Didnt know about the LS7 starter, front cover or the dipstick hole. I'll add that to the list of stuff with the LS2 knock sensors.

The injectors are a slam dunk for the car, I just bought the right parts to fit...plug and play. Same goes with the fuel rail, I'm not using OEM.

Why would I relocate the PCM? I'm going to eventually upgrade it to the '99+, but for now, I'm going to run the OEM '98 computer.

So now I need to ask, does anyone know of a vendor that sells the LS7 block with the dipstick hole drilled out?

B-Vette

Just for clarification, can you use your old PCM with the new LS7?

2ndVette

only if you change out the reluctor wheel on the crank

7LitreC5

The biggest problem will be traction...

02gt350

a buddy and me just cut the motor mount to fit...Im not about to grind the block down

02gt350

aside from a few relocation wires, you reuse all the same stuff..

1stGlance

I saw an LS7 block - LS7 7.0L Corvette Bare Block 17802854 advertised at Crate Engines Depot.com http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...Product_ID=930 - I think the cost is listed at around 2,500.00 ~

bassman12350

Heavy Duty clutch, if MT, and upgraded/kitted tranny if A4? Stock ones will not handle the torque/HP.

KCvetteowner

To save yourself some headache test fit your headers and check the clearance of the knock sensors on the sides. American Racing headers touch the more popular knock sensor location on the drivers side of the block.


Can someone explain the procedure for replacing the reluctor wheel? I was told by a shop that they have to remove the old wheel and weld the new one on. Sounds like a lot could go wrong in that process....