224/228 112 lsa
I have decided to hold off on heads and stall. I am going to do a cam only. This is a weekend only car. Below are my current mods. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
A4 315 gears
LG Streets
LS 6 intake
Vararam
BBK 80mm throttlebody
Borla Stingers
If it's something you still want to truly daily drive, then go smaller. I have a G5-X2 in my car that's a 232/240 .595/.608 on a 114 LSA. Car makes killer power and really pulls from 3500 to 7000 rpms, but it lacks a little punch down low.
If I could do it all over again I'd go with a cam spec'd out for massive torque 2000-5000 rpms because my driving style is different. When I picked my cam 2 years ago my car saw HPDE use and wasn't a daily driver.
If it's something you still want to truly daily drive, then go smaller. I have a G5-X2 in my car that's a 232/240 .595/.608 on a 114 LSA. Car makes killer power and really pulls from 3500 to 7000 rpms, but it lacks a little punch down low.
If I could do it all over again I'd go with a cam spec'd out for massive torque 2000-5000 rpms because my driving style is different. When I picked my cam 2 years ago my car saw HPDE use and wasn't a daily driver.
Weekend driver only and I do not want a stall. Do you have any suggestions for a cam with the torque you are talking about between 2000-5000?
I mentioned the 224/230 cam only b/c it has consistently made a ton of power for its size. What are your goals for the car? Heads, boost, nitrous, or just a cam?
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I have decided to hold off on heads and stall. I am going to do a cam only. This is a weekend only car. Below are my current mods. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
A4 315 gears
LG Streets
LS 6 intake
Vararam
BBK 80mm throttlebody
Borla Stingers
That is a good street cam that will have very good street manners (not to big that's for sure) and wil make decent power and have nice chop with 112 lsa.
That being said, I know with all the cam options there are certainly other cams out there that will make more power than your selected cam and still be very streetable.
I would call Allan Futral of Futral Motorsports down in LA somewhere (can do a good check) as he is an LSx cam GURU (one of the tops in the Nation) or at least call Speed, Inc (in Schaumburg) or Texas Speed and Performance and talk to one of their more reputable representives as they offer a ton of proven cam, (their torquer series come to mind) and just tell them what your usues for the car are going to be and if you are looking for great power throughout entire rpm band (which I am sure you are).
Let the experts help you out with what has been proven over the last 2 to 3 years. Also, a CONVERTER will REALLY wake your car up and make it feel like a 75 shot of N20. Are you definitely gong to to keep sotck converter and gears, etc. B.c if not, you want to pick and match your parts with a mind towards where you are gong with car in teh future, so you get it right the first time and don't waste time and $ doing it a second and third time. If you going with a torqe converter and or gears in teh future, then you nee to know which one and your cam needs to be matched up properly to your conver (as that is huge) and your gears!
Best of luck!
Last edited by Mopar Jimmy; Feb 18, 2009 at 02:01 PM.





Gross Valve Lift 1.70 Ratio: .612” .612”
Duration @ .050” Tappet Lift: 224* 228*
Lobe Separation: 112*
That being said, I know with all the cam options there are certainly other cams out there that will make more power than your selected cam and still be very streetable.
I would call Allan Futral of Futral Motorsports down in LA somewhere (can do a good check) as he is an LSx cam GURE (one of the tops in the Nation) or at least call Texas Speed and Performance and talk to one of their more reputable representives as they offer a ton of proven cam, (their torquer series come to mind) and just tell them what your usues for the car are going to be and if you are looking for great power throughout entire rpm band (which I am sure you are).
Let the experts help you out with what has been proven over the last 2 to 3 years. Also, a CONVERTER will REALLY wake your car up and make it feel like a 75 shot of N20. Are you definitely gong to to keep sotck converter and gears, etc. B.c if not, you want to pick and match your parts with a mind towards where you are gong with car in teh future, so you get it right the first time and don't waste time and $ doing it a second and third time. If you going with a torqe converter and or gears in teh future, then you nee to know which one and your cam needs to be matched up properly to your conver (as that is huge) and your gears!
Best of luck!

but with the auto I would get a 114cl
the 224/228 581/588 is good
the 224/230 comp standard grind is good
the 224/230 patrick-g cam is great (xfi lobes)-check with him for cl and advance. typically I see this cam at 113+2
you will want adv. in all of the cams 2+ you need to keep the DCR up
kj

It's all in the overlap as discussed above. By running a lower number LSA or advancing the cam you are moving the ICL down and affecting dynamic compression of the engine(cranking compression) If you go cam only you can raise the DC by picking the cam right and making some good low/midrange torque which will whlp you out since you don't have gears or a stall. It can be a balancing act between power and drivability though.

It's all in the overlap as discussed above. By running a lower number LSA or advancing the cam you are moving the ICL down and affecting dynamic compression of the engine(cranking compression) If you go cam only you can raise the DC by picking the cam right and making some good low/midrange torque which will whlp you out since you don't have gears or a stall. It can be a balancing act between power and drivability though.
perfectly said! Getting the most power is all about power. To make the most power you should first pick your heads (if your going that route) then spec a cam for that head





kj
YOu may never be content with your car unless you do a converter and gears (along with the cam) and the converter and gears are the best basic mods you can do to an LS1 A4 C5, and will make your car faster vs. cam only. You may want to save up a little money and do it once, and do it right, converter, gears and cam match to converter and gears (AND YOUR DONE) and the for sale section always has good deals on this type of stuff but just do your homework who you are buying from.
The fastest bolt on A4 C5 car about 5 years ago, ever documented on this forum, ran by a forum member in TX by the name of Roger White, ran a Yank 4000 Prothruster STall converter, 3.90 gears, aggressive street/strip cam, and he ran 10.9s with stock heads, all n/a on stock short block and the car was driven on the street all the time also with good street manners.
Keep in mind that lower gears (like 3.73s and 3.90s, will make a stall converter feel more like stock) and I would do gears and converter b/f a cam, as the car will be faster 0 to 120 mph with gears and converter vs a cam only application (even though the cam will be making for horsepower, but it won't make you quicker)!
I would hold off until you can do converter, cam and gears (and then call it a day-YOUR DONE)!
Also, if you do plan to enentually plan change heads you might want to take that into consideration before you select the cam; ie., if you plan to eventually install 205 heads you would want a different cam than if you like 225 heads. My spec are in my sig for whatever its worth.








