Just wanted to get y'all's opinion about doing just a cam, 918 springs, pushrods, and a tune in my DD 01 6spd with factory manifolds and cats, a free-flowing catback and a vram intake. The guy at TS said I should see about 30hp at the wheels. I know that headers would be best but I am plotting an LQ9 forged motor for a TT in the long run and dont want to waste the money on headers and other supporting mods, I just need to pull ahead of a stock 03Z with an old man driving it for now. Thanks for your help

 

Those exhaust manifolds suck and are going to cut back on everytning especially since youhave pup cats.

A cheep set of headers would easily double the HP to 60 probably closer to 70 if you were going to mill the heads or use thinner head gaskets, but you didn't mention taking the heads off. $500 for used or even new LG street or texas speed headers will make all the difference. Even z06 exhaust manifolds are an improvement.

you'll easily see 30 rwhp from what you listed.

 

Check this out: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-tsp-224r.html

 

Not a highjack but what would the difference be in going to the 228R. It might allow you a little easier time of getting to your power level. If you were worried about the driveability you could run a 114 lsa in it.

 

I was just going with what the sales guy at TS told me. I am kinda dumb when it comes to cam tech, I am looking to maintain good fuel economy, and I want to have a chopy idle. What will the 228 get me?

 

The 228R has larger intake and exhaust duration. It will make between 5 and 10 more wheel horsepower, supposedly. The 114 lsa with have a throaty sound, but the 112 will have a choppier sound.

 

112 will give more torque down low and give that chop, but don't get hung up on noise or sound, it will sound good, just get the cam that works for you. Also Get the least invasive parts and work your way from there. Cat back and vararam first, see how that is. You shouldn't need a tune after those and it should lean out the factory's too rich setting. I would be willing to bet you see 20 RWHP just from those alone. If you get headers then that's another 20 hp and you havn't even touched a cam.

difference in 228 vs 224 if your going with the comp R lobe is that your pushing the 918 springs if they are not the new updated ones good to .625 lift. The old ones are only good to .600 lift. A 228 will have ~.58x lift where the 224 will be about .57x. The fuel economy wont matter I'm running a 228 making close to 500hp but my lift is higher than normal and still getting ~30 mpg at 65mph in 6th.

Reading the cam sticky over on ls1 tech.com will really help you understand the basics of what all the #'s mean. I'm just not sure you will see any difference between a 228 and a 224 if your not going with heads and headers.

I know this is your daily driver but what else are you trying to do?
drag racing, road racing or just general drivability.

 

+1 on the 112 will give you more torque lower down. The 114 will give you a wider torque band, but the 112 will not be much behind it, but will deliver it sooner. Also if it is your daily driver, I would definitely get dual valve springs. Alot of people will say you won't need them, but they offer peace of mind. Some will last 30 to 40 thousand miles between swaps, with the 228 or 224 cam. Plus most those kits can lift to .650. For only a hundred bucks more it is worth it in my opinion.

 

Thanks for the information, you guys have darn near persuaded me to put the extra money down now and take longer to do the tt, it looks like 3 grand will get me rather far for performance without hurting my drivability.

 

I had the 228R in my 02 trans am with all bolt-ons and a crappy tune it put down 376Rwhp and 368RWTQ. I had the 112LSA it is a sweet cam i loved it!