"Rangered" clutch fluid today. Brake fluid???
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
"Rangered" clutch fluid today. Brake fluid???
After I did clutch fluid, just for some extra "fun" while I had all the stuff out, I syringed the brake fluid and replaced it. While not as bad as clutch fluid, it was quite black and nasty looking. I know, there needs to be a bleeding in my near future, but anyway, has anybody else noticed their brake fluid being very dirty? I have read the theories on why the clutch fluid gets so dirty, but I have never seen brake fluid so dirty.
#2
Drifting
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After I did clutch fluid, just for some extra "fun" while I had all the stuff out, I syringed the brake fluid and replaced it. While not as bad as clutch fluid, it was quite black and nasty looking. I know, there needs to be a bleeding in my near future, but anyway, has anybody else noticed their brake fluid being very dirty? I have read the theories on why the clutch fluid gets so dirty, but I have never seen brake fluid so dirty.
#3
Le Mans Master
right now i'm taking a break from flushing my brake fluid and flushing the clutch fluid after reading ranger's thread.
my brake fluid was very dark and i just flushed it....
clutch fluid i have changed several times after reading rangers posts about it, fluid is looking very clean now....
my brake fluid was very dark and i just flushed it....
clutch fluid i have changed several times after reading rangers posts about it, fluid is looking very clean now....
#4
Le Mans Master
Some brake fluid will turn darker just from absorbing moisture from the air. (which also lowers the boiling point)
You should flush your brake fluid every year or so, or whenever you have work done on the brakes, but most people don't.
Since I replaced a master cylinder, and flushed the system, my reservoir has stayed relatively clean. I still refresh the brake reservoir, like the clutch reservoir, once or twice a year.
You should flush your brake fluid every year or so, or whenever you have work done on the brakes, but most people don't.
Since I replaced a master cylinder, and flushed the system, my reservoir has stayed relatively clean. I still refresh the brake reservoir, like the clutch reservoir, once or twice a year.
#5
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '13
I Ranger all my fluids when I do the oil change. The power steering is now pretty clean. The brake fluid is better but was very nasty. I should flush the whole system but I'm lazy and that's alot of work. I'll do it next time I have to pull a wheel off or work on the brakes or something. But for now I'll continue to remove and dilute. It's better than nothing.
#6
Team Owner
I'm using Valvoline syn brake fluid. I change it out 2-3 times a year, as it doesn't take long to do.
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Changing the fluid in the brake master cylinder will not benefit you very much. If you aren't flushing/bleeding the brake system don't bother playing with the master cylinder.
Bill
Bill
#10
Le Mans Master
Bill is referring to the brakes. The clutch has a longer stroke and will kind of flush it's self with regular supply of clean fluid. The brakes are another story,,you need to do a full bleed to reap any significant benefits from fresh fluid!!
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
I wasn't referring to the brake comments. Just saying that it seems to be shifting a little easier after clutch fluid change for those that might be considering doing the clutch fluid.
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Heres something I personally find odd about rangering my clutch fluid. After I've driven the car with current Cartek clutch for the past 4 years and never did anything with the fluid, I opened up the reservoir and it was indeed black fluid. Sucked it out, replaced with new clean fluid. Got in and did the pumps, went back, no change in fluid whatsoever.
Ok, got on the forum and 1 or 3 members said they experienced the same and had to drive it around the block. Ok, went for a mountain pass. Two, actually. This is not easy putting around. Came back, fluid exactly the same and new looking.
Something is not working here for me. My fluid should be black until a couple of exchanges.
Ok, got on the forum and 1 or 3 members said they experienced the same and had to drive it around the block. Ok, went for a mountain pass. Two, actually. This is not easy putting around. Came back, fluid exactly the same and new looking.
Something is not working here for me. My fluid should be black until a couple of exchanges.
#13
Burning Brakes
Couple of comments / my experiences.
Clutch - I found that it would get black again in a couple of days until I finally blead/flushed out the whole system. When you push the clutch down - you can definetly notice a reduction in the fluid level. So I would assume you get a true mixing of the fluid over time.
Brakes - I did a swap to Braided SS lines and of course did a complete flush. The fluid in the reservoir was black. I sucked it out and topped off with fresh to start. All the fluid I got at the callipers during the swap and bleed looked fine. I am wandering, since the rest of the system is closed and not exposed to air and moisture, does it stay looking good and only the reservoir that is not really sealed from the air and moisture gets to looking black. Plus the fact that when you apply the brake pedel you are actually moving very little amounts of fluid. There is just not much travel in the caliper pistons on every brake pedal push compared to the clutch.
Clutch - I found that it would get black again in a couple of days until I finally blead/flushed out the whole system. When you push the clutch down - you can definetly notice a reduction in the fluid level. So I would assume you get a true mixing of the fluid over time.
Brakes - I did a swap to Braided SS lines and of course did a complete flush. The fluid in the reservoir was black. I sucked it out and topped off with fresh to start. All the fluid I got at the callipers during the swap and bleed looked fine. I am wandering, since the rest of the system is closed and not exposed to air and moisture, does it stay looking good and only the reservoir that is not really sealed from the air and moisture gets to looking black. Plus the fact that when you apply the brake pedel you are actually moving very little amounts of fluid. There is just not much travel in the caliper pistons on every brake pedal push compared to the clutch.
#15
Le Mans Master
i bleed brakes using a brake bleeder bottle...(old 20oz sprite bottle with a coat hanger on it for a hook, rubber tubing(vacuum hose) routed inside of it, and enough brake fluid inside of the bottle to cover the end of the hose .)
I hook the rubber hose from the brake bleeder bottle onto the bleeder on the brake caliper, and loosen the caliper bleeder. with the master cylinder full of fluid, I depress the brake pedal slowly to the floor 15 times, then I get out of the car, add fluid to the master cylinder and check the fluid level in the bleeder bottle. If the bottle is full, you need to close the bleeder then empty the bottle, but still leave enough fluid in it to cover the end of your hose.
I do this all the way around the car.remeber to open the bleeder only when the bottle and hose are hooked to it, and to close the bleeder when you are going to remove the bottle and move to the next wheel.
02 vette calls for this procedure right rear/ left front/ left rear/ right front
i did this on mine yesterday, went through two of the large bottles of dot 4 brake fluid and pumped the brakes at each caliper 30 times because the fluid was so dark.
as long as you keep fluid in the bottle to cover the hose, and fluid in the master cylinder, and you only pump the brakes when the bottle is attached to the caliper bleeder and open, then you will not introduce any air in the system and you will not have any issues.
also, no need for the engine to be running either..
I hook the rubber hose from the brake bleeder bottle onto the bleeder on the brake caliper, and loosen the caliper bleeder. with the master cylinder full of fluid, I depress the brake pedal slowly to the floor 15 times, then I get out of the car, add fluid to the master cylinder and check the fluid level in the bleeder bottle. If the bottle is full, you need to close the bleeder then empty the bottle, but still leave enough fluid in it to cover the end of your hose.
I do this all the way around the car.remeber to open the bleeder only when the bottle and hose are hooked to it, and to close the bleeder when you are going to remove the bottle and move to the next wheel.
02 vette calls for this procedure right rear/ left front/ left rear/ right front
i did this on mine yesterday, went through two of the large bottles of dot 4 brake fluid and pumped the brakes at each caliper 30 times because the fluid was so dark.
as long as you keep fluid in the bottle to cover the hose, and fluid in the master cylinder, and you only pump the brakes when the bottle is attached to the caliper bleeder and open, then you will not introduce any air in the system and you will not have any issues.
also, no need for the engine to be running either..
#16
Drifting
YMMV
From what I know, the caps do breathe, so the reservoirs will get contaminated over time with water. Both brakes and Clutch. However, that is not the only place that is an issue. Both sets of hydraulic lines are exposed to heat, and both allow some contamination in at the piston seal as the piston moves back and forth. I’d assume that water can also breach the seals as well, even when they are in new condition. Water is amazing in how it can penetrate things… Anyway, for most people, its not a huge issue and you bleed the brakes when you notice an issue. If you track the car then it is a huge issue and you bleed every time before you go to the track, both clutch and brakes, because you generate immense heat on a road race track or autox.
If it has been a while, like months, I do evacuate the brake master cylinder before I do a bleed. But, that is just me, it may not help but I think it does.
For the clutch, still figuring that out (I've only had a clutch for a little while LOL). I think the 'Ranger method' is excellent for minimizing the moisture in the fluid. IMO, the cap is the biggest source of moisture in the clutch. However, for some conditions I'd think a real bleed is needed and that is why I installed a remote bleeder on my clutch. I think I’ll follow the same as my brakes, if its been a little while then I change the fluid in the master cylinder before I bleed.
Last edited by MattB; 03-20-2009 at 06:19 PM.
#18
Team Owner