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I am not sure how this works I am a new member but here we go. I bought an underdrive pulley kit by BBK the new balancer has a keyway so like an idiot I assumed so did the factory,so I used a puller and took it off only to realize no keyway in the factory balancer. I didnt mark this to line it back up what do I do? how do I get the timing right there are no degree markers on the balancer or the timing chain cover please help!!!!
Your crank position sensor does it for you! Throw your timing light away!
Here is a great book on your LS1 engine and how it works:
Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8's, by: Will Handzel
I bought mine at Barnes and Noble, also available on Amazon.com
Computers, sensors, fuel injection, on-board diagnostics, electronics, I'll take them over carbs, distributors and points any day!
Spend time on the Forum and do searches for diagnostics, computers, sensors, ect. Lots of good info here.
The balancer is not indexed to the crank, and doesn't matter how it goes on the crank. Press it on and enjoy.
There is no need for a timing light on an LS1, which is why you'll find no timing marks. Ignition timing and spark delivery is 100% controlled by the PCM.
The balancer is not indexed to the crank, and doesn't matter how it goes on the crank. Press it on and enjoy.
There is no need for a timing light on an LS1, which is why you'll find no timing marks. Ignition timing and spark delivery is 100% controlled by the PCM.
The balancer is not indexed to the crank, and doesn't matter how it goes on the crank. Press it on and enjoy.
There is no need for a timing light on an LS1, which is why you'll find no timing marks. Ignition timing and spark delivery is 100% controlled by the PCM.
The reason it isn't indexed is because it's a damper not a balancer. The only dampers that may have had weight would have been in manual cars that the rotating assembly was "fine tuned". In that case, the weights (or equivalent) would be transferred to the new damper in the same locations.
As mentioned above, the ECM uses a crank sensor that reads a reluctor wheel on the crank for timing and injection.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Nov 24, 2020 at 07:49 PM.
If the balancer has a keyway and you have no plans to actually key it then I have seen folks just run some gasket maker or silicone in the slot on the balancer to avoid any leaks.......
If the balancer has a keyway and you have no plans to actually key it then I have seen folks just run some gasket maker or silicone in the slot on the balancer to avoid any leaks.......
If I were the OP, I'd just buy a key, put it in place,, and pull the balancer into place with the crank bolt. Not only addresses the oil leak path, but also guarantees the balancer will not slip, as it has happened more than a few times to forum members. Hope this helps, and good luck......
If I were the OP, I'd just buy a key, put it in place,, and pull the balancer into place with the crank bolt. Not only addresses the oil leak path, but also guarantees the balancer will not slip, as it has happened more than a few times to forum members. Hope this helps, and good luck......
You never use the crank bolt you use an installer. Using the crank bolt to install a damper often results in damaged crank threads.
How would he install a key if the crank is not cut for one?
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Nov 28, 2020 at 11:34 AM.
You never use the crank bolt you use an installer. Using the crank bolt to install a damper often results in damaged crank threads.
How would he install a key if the crank is not cut for one?
I apologize for the confusion. I thought his crank was keyed, also. As for the crank bolt length, I know the ARP crank bolt is not long enough. I should have specified using a longer crank bolt to get the balancer started for the first inch or so, THEN pull it on with the crank bolt. Boy, I should never assume everyone knows procedures, and everyone's crank is keyed! I'd like to blame a hangover, but I don't drink!!!