Well I just got back from the dealer. The new line is in. From a prliminary test it feels good so far, but have not powershifted yet.

There was some air in the clutch line even though the mechanic tried to bench bleed the master and new line as best he could. I have TPIS headers so getting to the Slave to bleed is going to be a biatch...

I hammered the pedal at a stop light about 100 pumps and it got much better.

Please tell me the air will eventually work it's way out....

If not the mechanic told me to come back and he will have to go through the complete bleed process..

Also I have a spare line M/C line....

 

Chuck, could I buy your spare line and you get it fitted the wayyou have your new one? I'd pay you for the labor and your troubles. Thanks.

 

chuckster-

Welllllllll.........I don't see how air could get out.....but since there has been this discussion of "flow" of the fluid in and out of the resv and the repeated turkey baster cleaning of that fluid with good results, maybe, just maybe, air that HASN'T made it to the slave will get cycled up to the resv and out.

Having said that, it's wishful thinking on my part. That bleeder is there for a reason.

Why do you think you have air? Did your guy bleed the system up to the QD just before he made that last connection?

 

dont sweat it until you get some hard shifting in. you'll know then if there is air or not. i installed my line by myself, on the garage floor, and managed to keep air out. i bench-bled the modded line with a great deal of success. it's been 2 weeks now + i have driven the clutch hard since and am convinced things are fine. unless the mechanic was totally inept, you may be ok.

 

There has to be a way to get at the slave to bleed without removing the whole frigging exhaust! Is there???

I guess it does not take much air to foul things up.

If I pump a bunch of times the play goes away... but if it sits for an hour or so it comes back. I am back at work now and the car is parked (backed in with the rear about 12" lower than the front) I just unscrewed the cap and rubber seal on the Master...Hoping any trapped air will manage to bubble it's way out.... :(

If I have to go back in to bleed the system then how much time are we looking at? Do the headers have to come completely off? God I wish I never had those installed!!!!!! :mad:

 

Hehe, yup TPIS...

BUT, I believe 2 things.. You can bleed the slave with them on.. which is the best way to do bleed..

Also, I 'think' I remember reading that air will work itself out to the top of the M/C reservoir eventually..

Did you change fluids again? I did too and no problems. OH YEAH, my headers were on too. Wait.. No.. my tranny was out for rebuild.. BUT, ya, the headers stayed on and bellhousing wasn't touched.

The Slave has a hard to reach bleed valve on it. Have him bleed the system proper for ya. Enjoy the headers and pray your clutch holds. ;)

 

Well still have the same problem....The air did not work it's way out.

Found this bleed procedure...
So the Slave is not behind that little flywheel access cover?
It's behind the driveline closeout panel???

Document ID # 316770

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Hydraulic Clutch Bleeding

Notice
DO NOT use fluid which has been bled from a hydraulic clutch system, in order to fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir; due to the possibility that the fluid may be aerated, have too much moisture content or be contaminated and may cause system or vehicle damage.


Bleeding the hydraulic clutch system is necessary whenever the level of fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the master cylinder.


1. Clean all dirt and debris from the clutch master cylinder cap to ensure that no foreign substances will enter the system.

2. Remove the clutch master cylinder reservoir cap with diaphragm.

3. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with clutch hydraulic fluid GM P/N 12345347, or equivalent, if necessary.

4. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.

5. Remove the intermediate exhaust pipe. Refer to Intermediate Pipe Replacement in Engine Exhaust

6. Remove the driveline tunnel closeout panel. Refer to Driveline Tunnel Closeout Panel Replacement in Propeller Shaft.

7. Have an assistant depress the clutch pedal fully and hold.

8. Loosen the bleeder screw on the clutch actuator cylinder to purge air.

9. Tighten the bleeder screw.

10. Release the clutch pedal.

11. Repeat steps 7 through 10 until all air is completely evacuated. Check and refill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with clutch hydraulic fluid GM P/N 12345347, or equivalent, as necessary in order to prevent air from being drawn through the clutch master cylinder.

12. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with clutch hydraulic fluid GM P/N 12345347, or equivalent, if necessary.

13. Install the driveline tunnel closeout panel. Refer to Driveline Tunnel Closeout Panel Replacement in Propeller Shaft.

14. Install the exhaust intermediate pipe. Refer to Intermediate Pipe Replacement in Engine Exhaust.

15. Lower the vehicle. (Good Thing they tell you this... :rolleyes:)

© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.


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Document ID # 316770



[Modified by chuckster, 8:18 AM 1/30/2002]

 

It appears that the slave is behind the closeout panel as this is what my service manuals state as well!

 

Yup. Seems like they could have made this easier. Yup. Yup. Yup.

I'm thinking of going thru all that trouble when I do my line mod, just so I KNOW that all fluid is replaced and the air is gone. I figure that while I have it up on jacks and I'm getting dirty, I oughta "do it right". Ugh.

 

Not sure, but you should be able to reach the bleeder without touching the bellhousing. It's way inside on the driveline somewhere towards the top by the Slave I assume.

 

I had air in my system when I installed my modified line. The problem was not in the line or the slave. It was caused by fluid draining from the master cylinder during the exchange. I solved the problem by using an oiler (plews oiler with thumb pump) with a section of vacuum hose on the nozzle. I filled it with fresh brake fluid and blead the air out of the line. I then pushed the hose into the line end of the M/C (forming a tight seal) and forced fluid back into it until the reservoir level began rising (make sure the peddle is up). You then have to clamp off the line from the reservoir to the M/C to prevent the fluid from draining back out and you have to re-insert the top end of the line pretty fast to prevent additional leakage from the M/C. Hope this is clear, you may have to do it several times until you get it right...
Shirl

 

Thanks!
But my mechanic is going to do a full bleed tomorrow..
Replacing fluid with (super blue racing dot4)

 

Good luck. Shouldn't be a biggie, just a bleed.

Then jump on it with some hi-rpm shifting and let us know how you like the line!!

 

Ya Mike, I figured he may as well replace all the fluid while he is at it. I had some (Super Blue Racing Dot4). Also told him to look at the shaft that the throwout bearing rides on and make sure it is fully lubricated and not "binding"

I pick it up around 1pm today.

But I do notice a definite improvement in the feel of the contact. Second gear actually hits with a sloid feel. I can actually hear the drivetrain absorbing the impact. :D

Should make for great tire spin!

 

:)

Nothing like chirping 3rd gear!
:D

 

You'd think with so many clutch problems, someone at Chevy would wake up and make one that works. :mad