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no, only V6's and 4 bangers. :lol:
seriously, nitrous is like any other power-adder. when done correctly and in reasonable moderation, it will not adversely affect the motor. if you do your homework, you will find that most of us that have power adders like nitrous go to rather lengthy extremes to ensure all is well while on the hose. extra gauges, scanning software, frequent oil changes, careful monitoring of the plugs, etc. you will definitely want to get software to scan with so that you can watch the O2's and spark advance under the squeeze. you will want to get a cooler plug (NGK TR6 gapped .035), too. ensuring there is plenty of fuel at all times will be your main concern.
In other words, it's like putting a stick of dynamite in your combustion chamber and the spark plug inites it. Eventually it will catch up to you, no matter how much you monitor it! :jester
Using nitrous correctly actually cleans your motor of carbon buildup in the cylinder and the motor loves it, in moderate proportions. Use a line filter and always clean and blowout line between fillups. I use a wet system and have never had a problem. If a selinoid get stuck, you didn't clean your line.
Nitrous is safe as long as its used correctly. My C5 runs rich on the dyno at WOT even with the N2O. I would not go more that a 150 shot though. The C5 has hyper-pathetic :eek: pistons. Also I would advise a wet system over a dry, since you can add fuel and N2O at the same time to prevent leaning out your motor. I have not had luck with NGK plugs. I run Bosch Supers (copper). They are only .89 a piece and work great. With a little monitoring you can run N2O and keep your engine for a long time.
I am also curious about it myself. I think it has come to a point that nitrous is safe for your engine in moderation. Just get that cutoff solenoids that would not feed nitrous to your engine at low RPMs (below 3000) or at redline. I would go with the wet-type and not go over 150 shot.
I would not advise someone that has never installed a nitrous system before to do so on their car. I would recommend they take their car to a well known tuner that has experience with nitrous.
The most important thing to do after the system is properly installed is to take the car to a dyno with a wide band O2 sensor to ensure that the a/f ratios are in the safe area of 11-12.7:1.
One of the other things I do to ensure adequate fuel quality is I add a gallon of Toluene at each fill. This helps prevent detonation which is deadly.
Then you have to be religiously about watching the plugs to make sure there is no speckling of the ceramics. Those tiny speckles are flakes off the crown of the piston. They are the first indicator of detonation.
I just recently ordered a NOS 125 shot, a new a piller for 2 gauges, NOS pressure gauge, fuel pressure gauge, and a purge kit. What would be the best reading on the gauges to run best? Thanks
We shoot for a 12.5 A/F ratio verified by dyno tuning with wideband o2 when on the hose. We use bottle heaters which maintain about 850 psi for the street, and heat the bottles to 1100 psi at the track.
Yesterday we pulled 515 rwhp and 583 rwtq on the hose, with an engine that puts on 340 rwhp 350 rwtq NA. We are going to pull the power back today as that is too much for a stock bottom end. I'm going to limit it to 480-490 max for the track.
I just recently ordered a NOS 125 shot, a new a piller for 2 gauges, NOS pressure gauge, fuel pressure gauge, and a purge kit. What would be the best reading on the gauges to run best? Thanks
I run between 1000 & 1100 lbs for the best results. Where did you get your pod pillar from. Everywhere I have called is "out of stock"? Did you have to order it (back ordered)?
on the pillar pod...i originally ordered from RK but found out they were on backorder. then i found the same pillar pod at Summit for $50- which is $25 cheaper than RK. Summit is on backorder, also, but if i have to wait, then i might as well save $$.