Wheel lock shattered (help!)
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Houston Texas
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Wheel lock shattered (help!)
Hey guys need your help! I was torqing down the wheel lock on one of the front wheels (lock is 6 years old), and it broke into pieces! Now the tapered/cone piece is still on the stud in between the wheel. Please let me know if you have any ideas of how I can get the rest off to get the wheel off! I am going to replace the other locks so this does not happen to me again. Thanks
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,757
Likes: 13
From: Stillman Valley Illinois
Drill it. You will need to replace the stud though. Start with a bit about 1/3 the diameter of the stud, and drill most of the way through the stud, then change to a bit about the same size, just a little smaller.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,092
Likes: 357
From: Houston Texas
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Thanks for thr replies so far. Still waiting to hear back from McGard tech rep.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Maker of Sharp Objects, AL - Roll Tide
St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
St. Jude Knife Maker
You can try a chisel, but you will most likely not be able t move it. Plan on destroying the stud in the process. If it busted, it was most likely too hard anyway. This means it will break again, if you hit just the right way. It probably won't do anything though. You said it broke while you were torq'ing - this means it broke on the way in. It is still under pressure so it will be tough to get it out. If you would have been removing it, it would be alot easier to break it and get it off.
Whatever you do, be careful not to damage the tapered counterbore in the wheel itself.
Whatever you do, be careful not to damage the tapered counterbore in the wheel itself.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 212
Likes: 1
From: Clearwater FL
St. Jude Donor '11
What about one of those Gator sockets that mates itself to any size nut or bolt? It just might have enough grip to get it off.
And if it does not work you can just return it.
http://www.endeavortool.com/
And if it does not work you can just return it.
http://www.endeavortool.com/
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Houston Texas
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Hello All, McGard Tech rep contacted me and they are sending me a drill kit to remove the stud. He said the kit will include 3 drill bits increasing in size with a drill guard. The idea is to keep increasing the hole until the stud breaks free. They are also sending me at no cost a replacement lock & key. All they asked is that I return the drill kit. Once I receive the kit I will let you guys know how it goes. Now I need to go to the stealership and get new stud.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 412
Likes: 1
From: Lampasas Texas
Hello All, McGard Tech rep contacted me and they are sending me a drill kit to remove the stud. He said the kit will include 3 drill bits increasing in size with a drill guard. The idea is to keep increasing the hole until the stud breaks free. They are also sending me at no cost a replacement lock & key. All they asked is that I return the drill kit. Once I receive the kit I will let you guys know how it goes. Now I need to go to the stealership and get new stud.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,092
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From: Houston Texas
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Well guys I finally got around to drilling out the stud. It was very time consuming. The drill bit that McGard provided were dull or this wheel stud is very hard. Anyway the drill guard that McGard provide was worthless! All it did was ride up and down the drill bit as I drilled. I took the advice of tapping the stud before I started which helped. When all done the hole was slightly off center to where I nicked the wheel, rotor and hub. PISSED! It was better that I did this than someone else nicking up my iforged wheels! Cannot see the nicks anyway when the lugnut is on. Anyway put back together and test drove and all is well. Never want to do this AGAIN!
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: Carrollton TX
Bummer...
Maybe this will help the next guy- try torquing the other 4 bolts on super tight then jacking the car up and hitting 'em with the torque wrench again. You can then usually just use a small tool (screwdriver-centerpunch-chisel) to back it off as the remaining piece will have very little pressure on it. Also it never hurts to soak it in a little penetrating lube first.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 4
From: Slidell La
I have also been worried about these locks. I bought my C5 new and when replacing (ok,, I expect to hear the you can't do that's). But I torque all the lugs to 50 ft #'s at 25# moves. Then I bring the lock lug to 65# and I bring the rest to 100#. The wheel is tight and I have never had an issue. Given all lugs are pulled up even to 50# the wheel is fully seated. The 100#'s on the 4 are basically spec. The 65# is within 30 or so % of spec. Never had an issue with rotor warping or getting the lug off.
Ok,, now lets hear the "you can't do that's".
Ok,, now lets hear the "you can't do that's".