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FRC Rear Window Leak

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Old May 21, 2009 | 09:04 PM
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Default FRC Rear Window Leak


This is a 2000 FRC. It has a leak under the rear window. The water is getting into the trunk area. I want to know if this trim can be removed so I can put silicone between the body and the window glass and then replace the trim. Is this trim made onto the glass? Is this a job for a glass shop? Thanks for the help.
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Last edited by Boulty1961; May 21, 2009 at 09:08 PM.
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Old May 21, 2009 | 10:06 PM
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I think that trim is glued in place with body adhesive, so you might have a difficult time removing it. Mine looked like it had been at least partially removed and sealed back down by the dealer before I took delivery of my Z06 because it is not as smooth in a couple of places. I cannot complain since at least I do not have any leaks.

Some rubber trim pieces like that are held in place by the sealer/adhesive that holds the glass in the car.
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Old May 21, 2009 | 10:13 PM
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Check with a glass shop to be sure. I think it is a pressure fit, although there may have been some adhesion from when the glass was originally installed.

Another way is to go from the inside. That is what I did, but I only had leakage around the RR corner. I removed the interior trim panels and the three brackets that clamp the roof to the body (in order to get better access) and laid a bead of sealant continuously from one side to the other. Worked for me.
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Old May 21, 2009 | 10:54 PM
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Thanks to both of you for the help.
I will work on this Saturday. I will seal the window and the roof to body joint form the inside.
That will be easy because I have already taken all the interior trim out tracking down this leak. If that is the fix then I am done. If not then its to the glass shop.
The only thing left in the car is the driver’s seat.

Last edited by Boulty1961; May 21, 2009 at 11:15 PM.
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Old May 21, 2009 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Boulty1961

Thanks to both of you for the help.
I will work on this Saturday. I will seal the window and the roof to body joint form the inside.
That will be easy because I have already taken all the interior trim out tracking down this leak. If that is the fix then I am done. If not then its to the glass shop.
The only thing left in the car is the driver’s seat.
Sounds like the perfect time for sound deadener. Two birds..........
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Old May 23, 2009 | 10:10 PM
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I sealed the rear window and the roof to body joint form the inside today. It started raining about 6pm and has not stopped. I guess we will see if it is fixed in the morning. Here's hopping for the best.
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Old May 24, 2009 | 01:59 PM
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Did this solution fix the problem? I have the exact same leak in my 99 FRC and it has been dumping here in Florida this past week - soaked my CD's and everything. Hope it worked for you as I will be doing the same thing this week. Thanks,

Gabe
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Old May 24, 2009 | 07:51 PM
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It rained until about 2pm on Sunday so it got a good test. I am happy to report that the leak from the window has stopped. I removed the roof to body brackets so that I could get to them better. At that point it was just a matter of sealing up the joints. I used white caulk around the window and black caulk around the roof to body joint. Here are some pictures to show what was done in case others might have this trouble. Thank you TEXHAWKO and LoneStarFRC for your help.


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Old May 24, 2009 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Boulty1961
It rained until about 2pm on Sunday so it got a good test. I am happy to report that the leak from the window has stopped. I removed the roof to body brackets so that I could get to them better. At that point it was just a matter of sealing up the joints. I used white caulk around the window and black caulk around the roof to body joint. Here are some pictures to show what was done in case others might have this trouble. Thank you TEXHAWKO and LoneStarFRC for your help.


You did good. Since mine only had a leak at the right rear corner. I didn't have to re-seal the entire circumference of the window seal. I just started about 6" or 7" up one side and then went down and across over to the other side and up the other side. That's all it took for me, and that was several years ago and everything has been dry since.
IIRC, the 3 top to body metal brackets had slotted holes and so I made sure to "pre-tension" them (held down as hard as I could by hand) when re-tightening the two bolts on each one. Started with the center one first and did the other outer two. Every little bit helps.

Glad you got everything dry and glad to help.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 12:21 AM
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Default Insulation

Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Sounds like the perfect time for sound deadener. Two birds..........
LoneStarFRC,
Thanks for the suggestion on the insulation as I would not have thought of it.
I did add some closed cell foam while the interior was out. There are many posts about this kind of insulation. Some people say it works good and others say it does not. For me it worked very well and cost less than $50 including the 3M glue. It is in the high 90s and low 100s here in Texas. Even with these temps, the car is very cool inside without having the AC on the max setting. At 70 mph on the highway it is now easy to talk at a normal tone.
It was just a small amount of work and the payoff was great.





Last edited by Boulty1961; Jun 29, 2009 at 12:53 AM.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 05:37 AM
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Looks like a nice job you did. Glad to help.
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