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ok....getting ready to install the MAFT today, I know I'm runnin grich but I don't see an adjustment for the MAF to dial in a little lean, count me confused???
I'm a little late in getting t atap, but I'll be begging Matt later today to get me one quick, so I can record some runs......I'm heading to the dyno on saturday and was hoping to be able to do a little tweaking.....
but I was also hoping to dial out the richness in the car at it's present state...and help/ideas??? Thanks!
Are you sure you are running rich? What makes you think this?
You can indeed richen or lean out the a/f mixture with the MAFT.
If you see a negative number, that means you are taking away fuel (leaning out) and if you see a positive number you are adding fuel. You have to take the screws out of the MAFT and open up the case. The sticker on the back of the MAFT will tell you how to set the pod switches on the actual circuit board.
I am very sure we have autotap in stock. Shoot me an email if you want us to get one out to you today.
Matt....soot in the tail pipes and advice from a few local racers led me to the belief I'm runing rich.......I just got off the phone with TLewis and he said when he installed the maft he was lean (rich like me prior to install) so he set it at 15% and the car seems to be runing great :D
I called Rich and he's getting me one 2day'd so I'll have it in time for the dyno run, thanks man, and I'll be installing the MAFT when I get home, so stay tuned :D
Just be careful with the MAFT. 15% either lean or rich on the MAFT could be very dangerous to the motor. I would start low and make small changes. Have you read about trying to get your Ltrimms as close to 0 on autotap for cells 1-19?
Email me if you have any questions once you get autotap.
Hi Matt, I installed the MAFT with all dip switches set at off (very confusing instructions...wish it said :for 97- Ls1 C5...) I started at 0 with both base & WOT..but the car would surge & idle high. Got PCM erroes "lean condition for each bank"...started 5% richer and it idled OK...but still got lean code...at 15% no codes & the 60'times picked up (8.18 to a 8.12!) WOT is still at 0.
This definitely explains the lean condition that the MAFT corrected. Sounds like the MAFT really worked great for you. I am just not usually used to seeing cars be so lean with bolt ons that they need 15% correction for partial throttle.
Mark, if you need assistance feel free to email me also.
remember, that you want to dial in base first with the L-Trims.
Then once dialed in, you want to move to the WOT setting (if its even necessary) by monitoring the O2 sensors at WOT. Because also remember, that the BASE setting effects the whole range of the MAF frequency. WOT settings just skews it during high RPM, and flow Rates.
Remember that when you make changes for non-wot with the BASE setting, you will have to drive a while (could be 50+ miles) so that the fuel trims will normalize to the new adjustment. You cannot tune base on a dyno in realtime like you can with the WOT adjustment.
thanks Shawn, in my mind, it was given I'd be contacting you this weekend regarding the atap ;) :D, hope that's ok :lol:
I'm gonna throw the maft on shortly a take a little drive, see what happens :D
Matt....we're just hoping to have the atap running during the dyno pull to gather a little data, but I see what you mean about needing to set ltrims 1st the wot, gonna be a great weekend, again :D :cool:
Have you read about trying to get your Ltrimms as close to 0 on autotap for cells 1-19?
With my mods below, my LTFT are averaging at about -5.0 at 5% rich, down from -15 (lean) before MAFT. I tried 10% rich to get average of 0. According to kewlbrez I was at the peak of the A/F-power curve, changed to 5% and am now on steep slope of A/F-power. There was a significant improvement.
I'd like to add that the LTFT readings that I got without the MAFT installed were different than with the MAFT installed and set to 0.
therefore indicating that the MAFT "colors" the signals from the MAF to the PCM a little bit when it is "in-line". IF I were you I would wait till you can ATap the car with the MAFT installed and set to 0 first, then start making your MAFT adjustments. :cheers:
I'd like to add that the LTFT readings that I got without the MAFT installed were different than with the MAFT installed and set to 0.
therefore indicating that the MAFT "colors" the signals from the MAF to the PCM a little bit when it is "in-line". IF I were you I would wait till you can ATap the car with the MAFT installed and set to 0 first, then start making your MAFT adjustments. :cheers:
Good advice...I can't though since it surges & sets codes "Lean condition exists..." at 0...weird. Should all dips be in the off position?
Update Matt! We had dyno day today and using your advice I don't think I was giving the car enough time to adjust to the base settings. Put it at 5% rich base (after gutting cats) and the WOT at 0. Put 200 plus miles on and no codes. Even ran a best of 8.07 at the 1/8th mile track last nite & at the dyno A/F was right on target! Thanks for the good advice :cheers:
5% make sense...
Most folks without Power loader need to go to 10%. But you have Powerloader and it almost always gives 5%. So the MAFT only needs to add an additional 5%