Headlight Won't Retract after HID installation
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 27
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From: Arkansas
Headlight Won't Retract after HID installation
We installed HID low beam headlights in our 2004 convertible. We purchased them from a guy highly recommended on this site. He was very, very helpful. Yes, all the resistors and relays were part of the package.
It is the driver's side headlight. When we turn off the lights, it goes down with the other but pops back up like it is winking at you. It isn't even fully open either. The dealer says that it is the motor and some other expensive things. They want $585 to have it fixed. Anyone have a cheaper alternative or seen this problem before?
It is the driver's side headlight. When we turn off the lights, it goes down with the other but pops back up like it is winking at you. It isn't even fully open either. The dealer says that it is the motor and some other expensive things. They want $585 to have it fixed. Anyone have a cheaper alternative or seen this problem before?
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
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From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
We installed HID low beam headlights in our 2004 convertible. We purchased them from a guy highly recommended on this site. He was very, very helpful. Yes, all the resistors and relays were part of the package.
It is the driver's side headlight. When we turn off the lights, it goes down with the other but pops back up like it is winking at you. It isn't even fully open either. The dealer says that it is the motor and some other expensive things. They want $585 to have it fixed. Anyone have a cheaper alternative or seen this problem before?
It is the driver's side headlight. When we turn off the lights, it goes down with the other but pops back up like it is winking at you. It isn't even fully open either. The dealer says that it is the motor and some other expensive things. They want $585 to have it fixed. Anyone have a cheaper alternative or seen this problem before?
The problem has to do with the resistance (HID's) cause problem. One of the vendors is selling a fix for it for $55 bucks or so.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 27
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From: Arkansas
They still don't retract when the high beams are on. The passenger's side isn't doing it and every once in awhile the driver's side, the one with the problem, will work. Can you refer the vendor who may possibly have the fix please? Thanks.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,747
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From: Hillsboro Oregon
Disconnect the HID ballast and bulb and reinstall the original bulb on the problem side as a test. If the headlight still pops back up then I doubt it is the HID causing the issue. You can rebuild your headlight motor for about $100 or buy a whole new motor for $232. @ http://www.gmpartshouse.com/
or off eBay for $182
or off eBay for $182
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,383
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From: Kinston North Carolina
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I'm curious though as to the actual cause of the problem that these "shims/washers" are supposed to fix. Is/are the times when the motor assembly is binding or interfering with something that spacing it back away from the bracket cures?BTW, that's the first time I have ever seen a part number for those "insulators". It used to be the situation that they were NOT listed in the parts diagrams. Apparently at some point, Government Motors decided to start offering them as a replacement item. I am making permanent record of that part number.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,383
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From: Kinston North Carolina
LoneStarFRC, the TABS (#5 in the picture) needed to be a little longer, so when the arm comes around to hit the stops (TABS), it hit too close to the end, putting the stress on the tip of the plastic insulators. When the insulators got worn, or beat up, the arm would pass on by the stops. Hope that makes sense, it' just my theory, and I'm sticking to it.
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Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
LoneStarFRC, the TABS (#5 in the picture) needed to be a little longer, so when the arm comes around to hit the stops (TABS), it hit too close to the end, putting the stress on the tip of the plastic insulators. When the insulators got worn, or beat up, the arm would pass on by the stops. Hope that makes sense, it' just my theory, and I'm sticking to it.
I've removed, disassembled and checked/cleaned the contacts on my headlight switch and no help. I'm thinking there is an electrical load component to this "bug" that the very low power consumption of the HIDs is contributing to.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: South Western Ontario
Makes sense, I see what you mean. I've been inside my headlights a lot lately what with my (phase 2) HID conversion. The problem I'm having now, is that most (not all) of the time when I first turn on my headlights, the doors will not come up. If I turn the lights back off, turn on the high beams (which illuminates all 4 lights on my car) and then try again, they come up normally. I can then go back to low beams or high beams as necessary and the lights function normally. THEN, come time to turn them off, many times (again not every time) the lights will not go back down, and I have to repeat the process: turn on high beams, turn off lights, and buckets retract. FWIW, I have HIDs in both Highs and Lows. I like my light.
I've removed, disassembled and checked/cleaned the contacts on my headlight switch and no help. I'm thinking there is an electrical load component to this "bug" that the very low power consumption of the HIDs is contributing to.
I've removed, disassembled and checked/cleaned the contacts on my headlight switch and no help. I'm thinking there is an electrical load component to this "bug" that the very low power consumption of the HIDs is contributing to.
Peter
Team Owner
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I wish you wouldn't hijack an origional post like this. Byronhunter posted the fix to the origional posted problem. You have something else wrong and you should start your own thread. I'll give you a suggestion though. Try connecting a side clearance light to the original low beam power wire where the low beam headlight was connected. Heck, use any small 12V bulb just to see if your lights begin to work on low beam. If this does not help you should start a new thread.
Peter
Peter
Thank you for caring though.
Team Owner
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Kinston North Carolina
Wasn't trying to hijack anything. I thought perhaps that some of the symptoms to a headlight door acting up may be related in some manner. Since the "fix" had been posted, the rest of this is just additional info that may or may not related.
Thank you for caring though.
Thank you for caring though.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
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From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: South Western Ontario
Wasn't trying to hijack anything. I thought perhaps that some of the symptoms to a headlight door acting up may be related in some manner. Since the "fix" had been posted, the rest of this is just additional info that may or may not related.
Thank you for caring though.
Thank you for caring though.
But then posted a whole blurb about your lights not going up or down at all when the low beam is selected. Sorry, but this is a different problem. It's not just confusing to mix problems together in a thread but you might have got more help if you'd started a new thread for your problem. That's all.
OK, your problem is that there is no load on the low beam power wire. The headlight controller needs to see a load to activate the motors. You can buy the HID inline resistor or you can connect your own load. A small light bulb works just as well and can be wired in for a few $$.
Peter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Well, the origional question was that one of the headlights was going down and then popping back up again. You posted questioning the washer (shim) fix which was the fix for the origional question so all was good.
But then posted a whole blurb about your lights not going up or down at all when the low beam is selected. Sorry, but this is a different problem. It's not just confusing to mix problems together in a thread but you might have got more help if you'd started a new thread for your problem. That's all.
OK, your problem is that there is no load on the low beam power wire. The headlight controller needs to see a load to activate the motors. You can buy the HID inline resistor or you can connect your own load. A small light bulb works just as well and can be wired in for a few $$.
Peter
But then posted a whole blurb about your lights not going up or down at all when the low beam is selected. Sorry, but this is a different problem. It's not just confusing to mix problems together in a thread but you might have got more help if you'd started a new thread for your problem. That's all.
OK, your problem is that there is no load on the low beam power wire. The headlight controller needs to see a load to activate the motors. You can buy the HID inline resistor or you can connect your own load. A small light bulb works just as well and can be wired in for a few $$.
Peter
You already posted your tip for me, but thanks for coming back and repeating it.
You have a good Memorial Day.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: South Western Ontario
I don't celebrate Memorial Day. I hope yours was good though.
Peter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,383
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From: Kinston North Carolina
"Geeze, Byron didn't even post the part number of the insulator. He posted a link to a thread detailing the fix, where that part number was posted as well."
And who posted the #3 post in the "thread detailing the fix" in the above link?
And who posted the #3 post in the "thread detailing the fix" in the above link?
Last edited by byronhunter; May 25, 2009 at 09:01 PM.