1214 Code and Battery Power
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,774
Likes: 361
From: Midland TX
1214 Code and Battery Power
I have been having some issues with getting the 1214 Code every few starts for almost a year now.
Something I recently noticed is that when I get the ABS/AH Dash lights (and accompanying 1214 code), my dash voltmeter has a hard time staying above 13 Volts during that driving session. While I know the dash meter is not always accurate, mine usually stays between 13.4 - 13.8. When I get the ABS/AH warnings it usually displays 11.2 - 12.8 during that start cycle.
I have seen this with both my old Optima Red Top and my newer Red Top replaced a few moths ago.
Here is what I have also noticed...
I started carrying a new Snap-On 1/4" drive digital torque wrench (very accurate) with me. Every time now when I get the ABS/AH dash lights, I turn the car off and check the torque on the battery terminals and re-tighten to 11-ftlbs and the problem goes away for a while. I have never checked the torque on the battery terminals yet (even after a couple days) that they did not need to be re-torqued (at least the positive terminal). So apparently they back off fairly quickly - not much - maybe only 1-2 ftlbs, but apparently enough to make a difference?
I was convinced that my EBCM needed to go to ABS-FIXER (which probably is a good idea anyway), but so far the battery terminal re-tightening seems to eliminate the problem. One thing for sure - the battery terminals DO NOT MAINTAIN their torque values for very long.
Maybe it is just that when the EBCM starts to fade it needs every bit of power it can get to pass the initialization test?
Just thought I would pass this observation along.
Something I recently noticed is that when I get the ABS/AH Dash lights (and accompanying 1214 code), my dash voltmeter has a hard time staying above 13 Volts during that driving session. While I know the dash meter is not always accurate, mine usually stays between 13.4 - 13.8. When I get the ABS/AH warnings it usually displays 11.2 - 12.8 during that start cycle.
I have seen this with both my old Optima Red Top and my newer Red Top replaced a few moths ago.
Here is what I have also noticed...
I started carrying a new Snap-On 1/4" drive digital torque wrench (very accurate) with me. Every time now when I get the ABS/AH dash lights, I turn the car off and check the torque on the battery terminals and re-tighten to 11-ftlbs and the problem goes away for a while. I have never checked the torque on the battery terminals yet (even after a couple days) that they did not need to be re-torqued (at least the positive terminal). So apparently they back off fairly quickly - not much - maybe only 1-2 ftlbs, but apparently enough to make a difference?
I was convinced that my EBCM needed to go to ABS-FIXER (which probably is a good idea anyway), but so far the battery terminal re-tightening seems to eliminate the problem. One thing for sure - the battery terminals DO NOT MAINTAIN their torque values for very long.
Maybe it is just that when the EBCM starts to fade it needs every bit of power it can get to pass the initialization test?
Just thought I would pass this observation along.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,526
Likes: 17
From: Santa Fe TX
That battery terminal torque thing is extremely interesting.
My Red Top (also second one) is giving me fits too!
It reads 12.4 volts when off, but about 3 out of 4 times when I crank the car, it barely starts and the DIC fuel mileage resets.
I was leaning towards the ign switch, but now I think it might be the battery.
I can roll the car with my foot and pop the clutch to start (that's now easy it is to start), yet the 800 CCA red top struggles to turn it over. Enough that the Voltage drops to the Instrument Cluster and resets it.
I wonder if you could use some blue loctite on the terminals?
BTW is it the ground or hot side that's "backing off" (or both)?
My Red Top (also second one) is giving me fits too!
It reads 12.4 volts when off, but about 3 out of 4 times when I crank the car, it barely starts and the DIC fuel mileage resets.
I was leaning towards the ign switch, but now I think it might be the battery.
I can roll the car with my foot and pop the clutch to start (that's now easy it is to start), yet the 800 CCA red top struggles to turn it over. Enough that the Voltage drops to the Instrument Cluster and resets it.
I wonder if you could use some blue loctite on the terminals?
BTW is it the ground or hot side that's "backing off" (or both)?
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 112
Likes: 38
From: Central Fl
I've been looking at the battery power/1214 code for a while now. I have not had a 1214 problem after turning the switch on and waiting for the dash and seat belt warnings to clear. Then and only then I start it.
I have had two Optima red tops that read anywhere from 11.6 to 11.8 when switched on. They will read 13.6 or better after a second or two. Autozone switched them out without an issue but they called Optima yesterday who said thay they only reccomend the D75/25, the yellow top. I have a 2001 vert.
My .02 /Ken
I have had two Optima red tops that read anywhere from 11.6 to 11.8 when switched on. They will read 13.6 or better after a second or two. Autozone switched them out without an issue but they called Optima yesterday who said thay they only reccomend the D75/25, the yellow top. I have a 2001 vert.
My .02 /Ken
