I am having some issues with my ac unit in this 00,first off I hav not charged this system in 8 yrs,so when it wasn't blowing as cold as it should be then my 1st reaction was it needs freon ,so this morning I put 3 bottles of freon in it,as it is getting colder & I go to unhhok the last bottle of freon I noticed that I am hearing a clicking noice every 7 sec & the ac light is coming off & on while the ac system was working fine yesterday other than the system not blowing cold air ,today after the freon install I am getting an ac light coming off & on & I can hear the compressor kicking off & on every 5 to 7 sec ,the crazy thing is there's no codes @ all on the hvac section on the dic diagnostic ,I am stumped on what to do , maybe someone hear has run across this & can help a brother out ,ps sweating my azz off in south alabama ,btw all the fuses. For the system are in perfect order,its like the compressor clutch is engaging & then disengaging,maybe I need a clutch coil replacement,I hate to start swapping parts unless I am positive this is what it is

 

3 cans is alot of freon. You might be overfilled plus have air in the system. I'd recommend you have the system evacuated and properly charged. Do you have any gauges to tell you what pressure the system is at on the low and hugh side?

 

I agree with Kens86.

 

The compressor is cut off when the high side pressure gets to a certain point. If the system is overcharged it doesn't take long for the high side pressure to reach the limit. Thus the compressor will cycle quicker.

Bill

 

What u say guys are saying is making perfect sense,so what I did was I went back & had the freon evacuated & recharged the system with the gauges that read proper readings within specified perimeter,everything is now working properly other than it still doesn't bow cold air @ idle, I can drive down the road with the thermometer temp reading in the Air duct the cab showed 103 deg when I left home,when icame back it was down to 85 within a 2 mile run ,when I let the car sit @ idle. For 30 min the the cab temp went up & hovered @ 95 ferin,so what I think I may have done is when I overcharged the system I may have damaged the orfice tube & there could be lots of moisture in the acumaltor,what is the purpose behind this acumulator ?I appreciate ur feed back guys , ireally do

 

If it was evacuated properly the shop should have pulled a vacuum on it for no less that 30 minutes. Unless the system was opened to the environment, that should pull trace moisture and air out of the system. If the Low and High pressures are within spec, run the AC at MAX Cold 60 degrees and let it equilibrate for 5-10 minutes. Then run the rpm to between 1500 to 2000 rpm and your thermometer should read between 40 to up to 50 degrees colder than the outside temp is depending on how hot is is out. This could take awhile depending on how hot is.

Here are some other things to check
Make sure you have airflow to the front of the car.
Don't do this parked in a garage nose up against a wall Not a fair test.
Make sure you hear the fans kick on to high RPM
Check for a dirty or blocked condensor (paper bag etc)
Check the low pressure pipe coming from the fire wall. It should be ice cold .

Check for condensation dripping from the evaporator under the car. If this is not happening, You might have weaken the compressor with the overfill. If this is happening your air flow actuator doors might need to be re-calibrated. You can find the procedure in this forum.

As a frame of reference, on the highway, with the AC set at MAX I read about 45 degrees at the vent with it 95+ outside after about 5 to 10 minutes of driving and nearer to 50 degrees in traffic.