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Well I have searched but yielded no real answer. I have a 2003 Z06 with a mild cam, TEA ported stock heads, and headers, yadda yadda. The car only has 11k miles on it and it didnt start slipping until recently. during hard acceleration the 2-3 and 3-4th shift slips when I get back full on the accelerator the rpms continue to fall a little until they finally car and begin to accelerate again. The car makes 435whp and 402ft-lb... I will be swapping out the stock manifold for a fast here soon and prob swap the heads for some AFR 205's or something like it. I figure an overall power range of about 450-460whp and 420 ft-lb.
What are your clutch suggestions at this power level I will not have to be able to squat 1100lbs in order to engage/dis-engage the pedal? Clutch chatter is a pain so minimal chatter as well as good daily driveability as a lot of my around town time is spent in stop and go.
Thanks in advance,
J
Last edited by iLLuZionZ; Jun 29, 2009 at 03:28 PM.
Look at the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch. I think the cost is less than say a Monster Clutch. I ran into a guy with a completely built Z (610rwhp) and that is what he is using and has no problems and no chatter. I have been researching myself. The built Z guy said it felt like stock and he does race the car. Has been at it for over a year.
I've got the centerforce in my c5 z doing duty behind a 427 making 540/530 to the wheels. I drive the snot out of it and no problems. stock like feel, no chatter!
I had to go with a dual disk clutch when producing 433 RWHP in a track-only car. Had the same symptoms you've observed but unfortunately I thought I had a hydraulic problem and replaced both the master and slave cylinders before I figured out it was the clutch/pressure plate flexing under pressure. Replaced the clutch and that problem went away. From my experience, the next 'weak link' in the C5 drivetrain is the differrential housing. I had 3.73 gears in a DTE Stage 2 diff and was running 335x17 Kumho V710s. When downshifting, the ring gear pushed thru the right side of the case. After installing a 4th diff (I'm a slow learner!) I realized you cannot engine-brake a C5 and expect the differential housing to survive under race conditions. NOTE: regardless of what the casting numbers and 8 digit part numbers say, the 2004 differential case IS DIFFERENT than other C5s. It was strengthened to reduce the right-side breakage.
If you want a light clutch pedal that can still take an *** beating, your best bet is gonna be a twin disc(spec, rps, mcleod). Stay away from textralia.
I ask why in the open? I have had no issues as of yet.10k m on spray and boost. Only issue I had was when I installed it. I was not aware that you could not use ARP bolts with them.
I ask why in the open? I have had no issues as of yet.10k m on spray and boost. Only issue I had was when I installed it. I was not aware that you could not use ARP bolts with them.
Inquiring minds want to know
First Exoskel, 500 miles, first upshifting WOT on street tires, on a private road, it slipped the first time going 3rd to 4th, the second time all the way up:
The second Exoskel slipped at the drag strip after 400 miles of brake-in, on the first pass...I did a secong one and it burned up:
With the clutch in my sig...only fast up****ing and complete drivability...no more concerns with the clutch...
Thanks for the pics. So far I have done well. Was going to send it out to upgrade to the triple but have no need to pull it yet. Sorry to hear you had crappy luck with them.
I'm having crappy luck with optima batteries at the present, but that's a different thread.
Sounds like you glazed the surface of the clutch disc. I was using a stock oem clutch for a long time with turbos while making about 540 rwhp and 520 tq, with no problems slipping and I even ran it on Drag radials and never a hint of slip. I swapped it out after 25,000 miles and it looked like new. I only swapped it out because of the notorious "sticking" clutch pedal issue many modded C-5s and C-6s have. KNowing what I know now, I would of first swapped out the master cylinder for a "Tick performance" master cylinder to see if it cures the dreaded sticking pedal issue.
If you drive the car around for a few hundred miles easily and not slip the clutch too much, it may wear the glaze off your clutch disc if its not too badly glazed.