My A/C has started blowing hot on the drivers side and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions.

Here's the info on my car:
2000 coupe w/ 84,000 miles
Manual HVAC unit

Here's what I've looked at so far:
- Checked for codes and found none.
- Pulled and checked fuses 18 and 27 in the passenger's footwell
- Checked the pressures - 30 psi low side and 250 psi high side @ 2000 rpm (92 degrees w/ 20% humidity)

Everything looks OK to me. Could it still be the drivers side actuator even if I get no codes?

Any help would be appreciated.

 

I have had this problem twice. In 2006 I replaced the control head in the dash and it worked well. Two weeks ago I got check engine light and cleared all codes and the warm air returned to drivers side. I disconnected battery for 5 minutes and when I reconnected it, I could hear the actuators recalibrating. Cold air came thru drivers side.
I have the dual zone air feature.

 

I disconnected the battery, connected it back up and still no luck. Anyone have any other ideas?

Will the manual HVAC unit still throw the codes? When scrolling through the DIC, I don't see the 99-HVAC option that I've seen referenced here before.

 

Check to see if the Accumulator is ICEY cold. If not, it's low on Refrigerant.

 

Hi, If you have the manual unit, you do not have dual actuators, or dual zone cooling, therefore you can not throw codes for that problem. And doing the battery disconnect would be a total waste of time for the manual units, as there are no dual actuators to resync. There is one temp door and an actuator which is controlled by the control head by means of varying voltage signals. The temp will be consistant at all vents if the system is charged properly. The most likely cause of your problem is an undercharged refrigerant level. To properly check it, you need to get a set of guages, and check the pressures, which I see you did. Your pressures are low as you can read in the below info. It may not seem like a big difference in your pressures at 90 and the below values, but it makes a big difference. The refrigerant enters the evaporator on the passenger side and expands across the coil inside the tubes to exit the drivers side, if the refrigerant level is not sufficient, there is not enough in the evaporator to absorb the heat at the end of it's run in the coil, hence less cold air at the drivers side vent. Below is an excerpt from another thread with good info on charging the system. Charge it up properly and it should be ok, if it has a leak, that should be fixed, if it is a bad leak it could be down again fairly quick, if it is very small seepage it could last years before needing another recharge. One thing I would add is, if your low pressures are in line, but the high pressures are higher than optimum, you may have a clogged or impeded condenser. On most vettes that have some miles and years on them it would be a good idea to wash out the radiator and condenser fins and coils with a hose from the motor side and in between the two, as they pick up a lot of dirt and debris. It can do wonders to help marginal operation become very good again, and help the longevity of the system.
SEE BELOW...
Good Luck

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1, It is best to charge and check levels on the vette at 2000 rpm's, it can be done at 1000, or 1500 accurately, but you have to compensate for the lower rpms, with higher pressures. As the rpm's increase the low side will go lower, and the high side higher.
2, At 2000 rpm's with an 80% relative humidity, and ambient temp at 80 degrees, the low side should be 34psig, and the high side right around 250psig, this should yield at least 50 degrees or lower at the center duct with a thermometer.
If the temp is 90 degrees and the humidity is 80% the low side is 39psig, and the high around 310psig, this should yield 67 or lower at the center duct.
Humidity levels do make slight differences in the optimum read levels, as do temps. But if you get close to those numbers you will have an optimum system.
3, The proper way to make sure you have optimum levels is to evacuate the system, as you don't really know who worked on it before you, and might have let air or moisture, or even the wrong refrigerant in it. Then pull a vacumn of at least 29inches, for a few hours to dry it out, then recharge it being sure to add some proper oil. If it hasn't been disassembled, usually about 4 to 6 ounces of oil will be enough to protect the system. If you suspect a leak, which you should, because refrigerant doesn't wear out it leaks out, a bit of dye added will help you find it.