I'm going to have to look into that. 
Horns went bad
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 9
From: Charlotte, NC
Horns went bad
Just an informative post about horns and replacement.
My High horn died a few months ago and it took me a while to replace it, even though the actual replacement process is pretty easy.
It is easiest to gain access to the horns by jacking the front passenger side and removing the front passenger wheel. From here you want to remove the 5 screws that hold the horizontal plastic piece in place just behind the corner air dam.
Now you have access to the horns which are mounted to a bracket. The bracket is mounted to the frame rail by only one bolt. The wiring only has one disconnect to allow the bracket to swing free. Each horn has one nut holding it to the bracket.
To test which horn is bad, just connect a couple of wires to your positive and negative battery terminals (the horns are 12 volts which is the same as your battery). Your horn should sound off once you've connected it, unless the horn is bad.
Autozone has direct replacements for about $19 to $21 each (so about $40 for both the Low and High horns). The part numbers are H10 and H11.
The first time they gave me an H10 it was not a direct replacement. I didn't understand why since the H11 was perfect. I ordered another H10 and this one was correct. I guess the first horn was accidentally placed in the wrong box?
Advanced Auto Parts tried selling me some Blaster horns that were supposed to be direct replacements but would actually require rewiring the horns…so I passed.
Let me know if there are any questions.
My High horn died a few months ago and it took me a while to replace it, even though the actual replacement process is pretty easy.
It is easiest to gain access to the horns by jacking the front passenger side and removing the front passenger wheel. From here you want to remove the 5 screws that hold the horizontal plastic piece in place just behind the corner air dam.
Now you have access to the horns which are mounted to a bracket. The bracket is mounted to the frame rail by only one bolt. The wiring only has one disconnect to allow the bracket to swing free. Each horn has one nut holding it to the bracket.
To test which horn is bad, just connect a couple of wires to your positive and negative battery terminals (the horns are 12 volts which is the same as your battery). Your horn should sound off once you've connected it, unless the horn is bad.
Autozone has direct replacements for about $19 to $21 each (so about $40 for both the Low and High horns). The part numbers are H10 and H11.
The first time they gave me an H10 it was not a direct replacement. I didn't understand why since the H11 was perfect. I ordered another H10 and this one was correct. I guess the first horn was accidentally placed in the wrong box?
Advanced Auto Parts tried selling me some Blaster horns that were supposed to be direct replacements but would actually require rewiring the horns…so I passed.
Let me know if there are any questions.
Last edited by FASST LN; Jul 17, 2009 at 09:39 PM.
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