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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 10:08 PM
  #1  
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From: Tomball Texas
Default New Engine Blues

OK guys, here we go....I've searched the forums, tried all of the common fixes, but nothing seems to work, or even change the issue.

The engine will start, but not run. It doesn't die immediately, it'll run for a few seconds then the RPM starts dropping and will die within 5 seconds. Total run time is about 8 seconds. If at any time I touch the throttle it'll die instantly just like turning the key off.

This is a complete new LS2 shortblock, L92 heads, LS3 intake/TB and custom cam. I've got the TB adapter harness and the cam position sensor extension harness, all is connected properly. This combo replaced a LS6 with a similar cam so I'm pretty sure the tune is close enough to at least allow the engine to start and run.

I'm getting the following codes:

P0102
P0343
P1514
C1233
C1278
U1000
U1096

I can clear all of these via the DIC except the U1233, but I don't see that as causing the issue. Once I clear all of the codes and try to start the car it does the exact same thing as described above. When I go back to the DIC I get the same codes listed.

Obviously I'm frustrated and just want to drive my car again.

Any input would be appreciated.

Troy
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 10:31 PM
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If this engine was just installed, I would recommend checking that a ground was overlooked. I know i did that once and had a similar situation. Once i hooked up the ground, it started. Just a suggestion.
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 10:39 PM
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From: Tomball Texas
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That's the very first thing I looked for. Initially I had a no start issue, it would turn over all day long, but never start. Once I connected a missing ground it started, but has the problem as stated above.

Troy
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 10:40 PM
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I believe some of your problems are in your tune. I had some (not all) of the same codes and symptoms on my build startup. Maybe someone in the sacn/tune section can help.
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by TxBandit
OK guys, here we go....I've searched the forums, tried all of the common fixes, but nothing seems to work, or even change the issue.

The engine will start, but not run. It doesn't die immediately, it'll run for a few seconds then the RPM starts dropping and will die within 5 seconds. Total run time is about 8 seconds. If at any time I touch the throttle it'll die instantly just like turning the key off.

This is a complete new LS2 shortblock, L92 heads, LS3 intake/TB and custom cam. I've got the TB adapter harness and the cam position sensor extension harness, all is connected properly. This combo replaced a LS6 with a similar cam so I'm pretty sure the tune is close enough to at least allow the engine to start and run.

I'm getting the following codes:

P0102
P0343
P1514
C1233
C1278
U1000
U1096

I can clear all of these via the DIC except the U1233, but I don't see that as causing the issue. Once I clear all of the codes and try to start the car it does the exact same thing as described above. When I go back to the DIC I get the same codes listed.

Obviously I'm frustrated and just want to drive my car again.

Any input would be appreciated.

Troy
Good tip on the ground behind the head.....Was the whole drive train removed from the car? How is the fuel pressure?
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 10:52 PM
  #6  
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From: Tomball Texas
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I only removed the engine, nothing else.

I have not yet checked the feuel pressure. That's next on the list. It acts like the fuel pump isn't running after the engine starts. I do know that the pump is priming because I can hear it. And the fact that the engine actually starts. Not completely ruling out fuel at this point.

Troy
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 11:18 PM
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#1 you used the correct 2X reluctor cam gear for the conversion ?
#2 the extension harness is wired correct for the cam sensor(some came with crossed pins)
#3 MAF wires undamaged,MAF itself intact ?
#4 Tune is off,probably way off,will it start,maybe ? You should try to get some help in getting a base tune for your current combo,esp if you changed injectors.
#5 the 1514 code,did you move the MAF up next to the TB ? I have seen this twice,and both times,when you try to give the car some throttle,the blade hits the airfoil inside the MAF,resetting the TB to idle only and immed setting the code.At this point,if the tune is off,you cannot feed it enough air to make it run.
#6 double check,ground on Dr rear cyl head,ground above starter on pass side of block,no pinched wires between block and bellhousing.
Best of luck,work through each problem logically and completely and you will have it running in no time !
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 11:39 PM
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From: Tomball Texas
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Originally Posted by highpockets
#1 you used the correct 2X reluctor cam gear for the conversion ?
#2 the extension harness is wired correct for the cam sensor(some came with crossed pins)
#3 MAF wires undamaged,MAF itself intact ?
#4 Tune is off,probably way off,will it start,maybe ? You should try to get some help in getting a base tune for your current combo,esp if you changed injectors.
#5 the 1514 code,did you move the MAF up next to the TB ? I have seen this twice,and both times,when you try to give the car some throttle,the blade hits the airfoil inside the MAF,resetting the TB to idle only and immed setting the code.At this point,if the tune is off,you cannot feed it enough air to make it run.
#6 double check,ground on Dr rear cyl head,ground above starter on pass side of block,no pinched wires between block and bellhousing.
Best of luck,work through each problem logically and completely and you will have it running in no time !
#1 I'll check with the shop that built the engine
#2 I'll check this as well (I was unaware of this problem)
#3 All checks out good
#4 Previous combo was similar, but the tuner that I use is nearby. I'm planning to stop there tomorrow.
#5 I did not move the MAF. It's in the stock location. I did have to use a different tube to connect the MAF to the TB. I have confirmed early on that there are no mechanical interferences.
#6 All triple checked and confirmed good.

Thanks for the responses....any little bit helps.

Troy
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 11:51 PM
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Troy,did you switch from a 78mm to a LS2 90mm TB with the corresponding extension harness ? Have seen pins pushed out of TPS sensor wire or bent pin in TPS sensor in TB as well.(sorry,I reread the initial post after I asked)

Last edited by highpockets; Jul 19, 2009 at 11:53 PM. Reason: reread post !
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 11:52 PM
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From: Tomball Texas
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Yes I did.

I believe it's either an L76 or LS3 TB. I bought the entire intake "kit".

Troy
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 11:57 PM
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Ok, the fuel pump relay gets a ground through the splice pack(under the battery tray, which in turn is ground ..on the lower left side of the block. Do you have the ground on the block reconnected? (should also have a ground (woven stainless strap)that goes to the frame rail below the master cylinder. One way to veryify quickly is to pull the fuel pump relay, and jumper the contacts so the pump runs continuously, and try to start the car. I'll PM you my number if you need clarification.
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 11:58 PM
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So you got the LS3 injectors as well ?
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 12:42 AM
  #13  
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From: Tomball Texas
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Which two pins do I need to jumper on the FP relay? I'm also assuming that this would happen in the fuse box which is located in the engine compartment?

I'll double check the pins on all of the TB connections.

I do have the LS3 injectors also. I had to get the adapters so that the LS6 harness would plug into the LS3 injectors.

Troy
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by TxBandit
Which two pins do I need to jumper on the FP relay? I'm also assuming that this would happen in the fuse box which is located in the engine compartment?
If you pull out the fuel pump relay, look underneath the relay itself, and you'll see numbers next to the pins. You need to jumper the socket contacts in the fuse box that correspond to pins 30 and 87.

I'm working late if you need to call.
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 01:16 AM
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Jump 30 and 87. You should have a ground at 85(as pictured), and 12 volts at 86 for two seconds when you first turn the key to on(not start), and constant while the engine is running.
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 11:03 AM
  #16  
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From: Tomball Texas
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Thanks for the info. I'll try this when I get home this evening.

Troy
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 11:20 AM
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If you got the L76 kit then the map sensor moved from the back to the front so you would have needed a harness for the map sensor as well.


May sound odd but make sure the plug for the coil pack harness is not plugged in upside down I wouldn't think you could get it to run for 8 seconds but perhaps only one side is plugged in upside down...


As mentioned before the plug on the cam sensor is a well known issue, just switch the wires around and try again...
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 12:18 PM
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From: Tomball Texas
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You are correct, rather than getting the extension harness I extended the wires myself, using the same wire size and with all soldered connections.

I'm sure that the coil packs are plugged in correctly. When it does start it's hittin' on all 8, no doubt about that.

The cam position sensor harness is already on my list of items to check.

Thanks,

Troy
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by TxBandit
Which two pins do I need to jumper on the FP relay? I'm also assuming that this would happen in the fuse box which is located in the engine compartment?

I'll double check the pins on all of the TB connections.

I do have the LS3 injectors also. I had to get the adapters so that the LS6 harness would plug into the LS3 injectors.

Troy
LS3 Injectors are bigger than LS6. You need to stop trying to start it. You are fuel washing your cylinders. Get you tune updated for the bigger injectors.
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by TxBandit
OK guys, here we go....I've searched the forums, tried all of the common fixes, but nothing seems to work, or even change the issue.

The engine will start, but not run. It doesn't die immediately, it'll run for a few seconds then the RPM starts dropping and will die within 5 seconds. Total run time is about 8 seconds. If at any time I touch the throttle it'll die instantly just like turning the key off.

This is a complete new LS2 shortblock, L92 heads, LS3 intake/TB and custom cam. I've got the TB adapter harness and the cam position sensor extension harness, all is connected properly. This combo replaced a LS6 with a similar cam so I'm pretty sure the tune is close enough to at least allow the engine to start and run.

I'm getting the following codes:

P0102
P0343
P1514
C1233
C1278
U1000
U1096

I can clear all of these via the DIC except the U1233, but I don't see that as causing the issue. Once I clear all of the codes and try to start the car it does the exact same thing as described above. When I go back to the DIC I get the same codes listed.

Obviously I'm frustrated and just want to drive my car again.

Any input would be appreciated.

Troy

Swap pins A and C on the camshaft position sensor harness at the end that connects to the CPS. This is a necessary thing when moving to a LS2/3 CPS on a LS1 car. We found it out the hard way when my LS3 shortblock went it, and I was throwing the exact same P-Codes as you. My car went from initially running the first time to cranking only, and as soon as those pins got swapped it fired, idled, and acted normal.
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