I read almost every post on the headlight motor repair and reviewed the pictures a hundred times but now I am halfway into the removal of the motor and am stuck with no way I can see to finish the job or even get it back together.

I read where folks could get the motor off without removing the entire assembly which is the way I chose to go as I don't want to remove more then I need. But I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the nut on the top bolt (I can get it almost off but my socket runs out of room on the outside and I only have 1 10mm box wrench to use which I have somehow squeezed in that tiny space to hold the nut. Of course I can't get my hand in there (and I have small hands) to even attempt to hold the nut while I use the box wrench on the bolt from the outside.

Don't even get me started on how to reach the nut on the spindle. I can't even imagine how to reach it. And I've looked at removing the whole assemby but I can't see how I can even begin to reach the backside of all the bolts on that.

So now I have a half-removed headlight motor and I'm not sure I can even get it put back together. Even if I get it out just how am I going to get those two nuts back on the bolts. I can't even get the bottom bolt out even with the nut removed, it hits the hood hinge and there is no more room!!!

Super frustrated!!! I don't have the $1000+ it would take to take this to the dealer and have them fix everything I have screwed up to this point!!! UGH!!!!!

Someone please help me figure out how to proceed from here!!

Thanks!!

 

I just did this last night.

The manual says to remove the under the bumper pannel then move the brake calipers air duct. From there you can get to the 3 frame bolts and 3 wheel well nuts to get the assembly out. It is of course easy once the assembly is out.

I did not do that. But I was able to remove the assemby by just getting my arm under the light with the surround off of course.

I did both sides at once and replaced my gears with the brass kit from Rodney.

Hope this helps. The great thing about the manual - is that it gives you the sure way to get it done. Sounds like you need to follow the "for sure'" way to get it done.

I could not see my way to get the motor our with out removing the assembly much less get it back in which I think is even harder - especially to get the light arm back onto the motor shaft.

Focus on getting the assembly out.

 

Some of the steps from the manual might help.

Headlamp Replacement
Removal Procedure




Remove the passenger side front floor kick up panel to access the IP electrical center.



Remove the cover from the IP electrical center.



Remove the HDLP Maxi circuit breaker #54, from the IP electrical center.
Raise the hood.



Disconnect the headlamp wiring harness electrical connector from the forward lamp wiring harness.



Remove the headlamp actuator **** cover.
Raise the headlamp by turning the headlamp motor/actuator manual control **** counterclockwise.



Remove the headlamp bezel. Refer to Headlamp Bezel Replacement .

Notice
When removing body panels, apply tape to corners of panel and adjacent surfaces to help prevent paint damage.


Apply tape to the fender and hood edge to protect the paint.
Remove the front fascia lower closeout panel. Refer to Close Out Panel - Front Bumper Fascia Lower in Bumpers.
Remove the brake caliper cooling duct. Refer to Brake Caliper Cooling Duct Replacement - Front in Bumpers.
Disconnect the electrical connectors from the headlamp automatic control module, RH side only.




Important
Before removing the fasteners, support the headlamp assembly.


Remove the headlamp bracket to the frame rail bolts.




Important
The headlamp assembly will have to clear the studs extending from the headlamp stud plate.


Remove the headlamp bracket nuts from the headlamp stud plate.
Lift the headlamp assembly out of the vehicle.
Remove the headlamp intermediate bracket from the headlamp. Refer to Headlamp Intermediate Bracket Replacement .
Remove the headlamp motor/actuator from the headlamp. Refer to Headlamp Motor/Actuator Replacement .
Remove the headlamp capsule from the headlamp. Refer to Headlamp Capsule Replacement .
Installation Procedure
Install the headlamp capsule to the headlamp. Refer to Headlamp Capsule Replacement .
Install the headlamp motor/actuator to the headlamp. Refer to Headlamp Motor/Actuator Replacement .
Install the headlamp intermediate bracket to the headlamp. Refer to Headlamp Intermediate Bracket Replacement .



Position the headlamp assembly onto the studs extending from the headlamp stud plate.
Loosely install the headlamp bracket to the headlamp stud plate nuts.



Install the headlamp bracket to the frame rail bolts.

Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


Beginning with the upper location, tighten the headlamp bracket to the frame rail bolts. Tighten
Tighten the headlamp mounting bolts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).

Beginning with the upper inner location, tighten the headlamp to stud plate nuts. Tighten
Tighten the headlamp mounting nuts to 10 N·m (89 lb in).





Connect the electrical connectors to the headlamp automatic control module, RH side.
Install the brake caliper cooling duct. Refer to Brake Caliper Cooling Duct Replacement - Front in Bumpers.
Install the front fascia lower closeout panel. Refer to Close Out Panel - Front Bumper Fascia Lower in Bumpers.
Install the headlamp bezel. Refer to Headlamp Bezel Replacement .



Connect the headlamp wiring harness electrical connector to the forward lamp wiring harness.
Rotate the headlamp motor/actuator manual control **** clockwise to lower the headlamp.



Install the headlamp motor/actuator **** cover.
Remove the protective tape installed during removal of the headlamp.
Close the hood.



Install the HDLP Maxi circuit breaker #54 into the IP electrical center.



Install the cover to the IP electrical center.



Install the floor kick up panel.
Check the alignment of the headlamp opening door. Refer to Headlamp Opening Door Adjustment .
Check and adjust headlamp aim as necessary. Refer to Headlamp Aiming .

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Thanks guys. After taking a calm breathe I was able to get the bottom bolt off and get the top nut removed and bolt out. to get the spindle nut off I did jack the car up and go from underneath to do it. Had to do it by feel as you can see very well. So hopefully I should be able to put it all back together again in the morning. Now it's time to epoxy the cover back on, the old gear had about 3-4 teeth in a row just sheered off and gone.

Phew!!!!

 

I have seen the brass gears on ebay. for about $55.00 each shipped to me. Are they really the way to go? I do need to replace mine. 2000 C5 convert.

 

http://rodneydickman.com/retail_new.html $94 shipped to me for two sets.

His kit includes the glue, grease, brass gear, rubber insert, two different washers, and a brace - it is well engineered to improve the motor and should be a one time thing for the rest of the life of the car. Much better than a new motor assemble from the dealer or certainly better than another plastic gear which is guarenteed to break again.

 

Thanks for the link, I'm looking forward to picking these up, Getting tired of hearing dem headlights making all dat noise... Thanks again.

 

Well everything went back together easily afterwards. I do have one question for all the folks that have completed this repair before. The headlight comes up just fine after the gear change, but when closing it seems like it is trying to close to fast and "hops" as it closes compared to smoothly closing like the other headlight does. It opens smoothly just not when closing. Anyone else experience this after the gear change? Otherwise everything works just great!

 

I just rebuilt my passenger side headlight yesterday using the Rodney Dickman kit. The kit is great and the instructions are very detailed.

Not sure about the hopping issue. Mine now works smoothly in both directions. Did you check to see if there is any looseness between the metal motor housing and the plastic gear housing? If everything isn't snug, maybe it's causing the motor to mis-align with the gear? You can snug up the fit with a few taps on the metal tabs connecting the two housings. Odd that it's smooth in one direction and not the other.

 

This morning I noticed that there is a little play in the headlight I fixed. I think one of the bolts on something is not quit tight enough which might be the cause of the hopping on closing. Looks like I'll have to tighten up something this weekend. Oh yea! Probably the bolt from the spindle to the actuator arm.

 

Did mine the other day. Had no problems other than waiting for the glue to dry on the motor cover. I was able to remove the headlight suround and painted cover, them reach in with a 1/4" drive and a box end, remove the 3 bolts and the nut off the linkage. Popped the motor cover, changed the gear and glued it back on. Bolted right back up, no problems (and my hands aren't very small.) Glad I didn't read the write up about removing the whole headlight assm. or I probably would have put it off for as long as possible.

 

Do remember that the shaft coming out of the gear is slotted - and that the arm has to fit back on just so - it would be very hard to get this right with out removing the assembly - which is not any harder than doing just the motor nuts.

Notice that the arm hole whole is not round - but flattened on two sides - almost rectangular. Well the shaft below the threads is the same shape - and you are suposed to get the arm all the way onto the shaft so that those two "mating" parts form a solid connection. You can put the nut back on even if you only have the arm partially back on and it would seem fixed - but is not 100% correct and can lead to later problems.

An earlier post about non-normal movement could be from the shaft being held in place by the nut pressure and not because it fit exactly back together with the arm completely down over the shaft. This could also cause the "jump over the stop" issue someone else posted.

There are reasons that the manual has a "proven" method to do these repairs. And saving an hour getting it done is not always time best spent, if you end up having to go back over it - or even eventually having to do the removal anyway.

 

Well I found my problem. The epoxy I used must have been old or bad because the cover had completed come loose. This was causing the whole spindle to move about 1/4 - 1/2 inch and the actuator arm was actually slipping pass the rubber bumper stop. Without the bumper to stop the motor the headlight was now cycling open and close in one pass, what a pain! I had to do the repair all over again, take everything apart, take it all out and now I bought some new epoxy to try again. I hope this stuff works.

At least I know how to get everything apart now since this seems like the 3rd time in a week I've had to take it apart and put it back together. UGH! I'll be a certified expert on this repair by the end of this weekend!

 

One more quick question on the motor housing tabs. How did you guys get them pinched back down tight if these were loose? I have one that needs to be pinched back down but damn if it is as stiff as can be and I can't figure out the best way to get a grip on it to pinch it back down. Ideas?

 

Glue it on - there is no need for it ever to be able to come back off. I would glue both of them on - and again be sure that the arm fits back over the slot in the shaft so it sits down far enough.

 

Well I got it all figured out and installed Sunday morning. Just used a punch to tap the tabs down for the motor housing. Got it all reassembled with very little fuss, actuator arm installed nice and flush. Tested it and now the headlight works smoothly in both directions.

When the other side goes out I'll be all ready to fix it. Funny how confident you get doing a repair when you have to do it a few times.

Hopefully I'll be done with repairs on the car for a while though.

 

Why wait - the kit is cheap and you got the proceedure fresh in your mind.

The plastic gear will break - It is only a matter of when.

I did both mine at once although only one side went out. Now it is a non issue.

 

This is probably not what you want to hear, but the epoxy will probably not last long, and the motor torsion will most likely push it off over a short period of time. Consider the method in the following "How to permenently install the window motor cover". If you are half way competant at using a dremel tool and nylon wrap ties, you will never have to re-visit your head lamp motor :

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...tor-cover.html

 

Glad you got it figured out.

 

Tie wraps will last for even less time than the glue will. Again Rodney's kit includes a brace which fits over the end of the glued on cover and bolts in place to address your "cover come unglued" issue. It also has a couple of spacing washers to address the "over the stop" issue as well.

Get the kit - it is super well engineered - and I do not even know Rodney - I am just an old industrial engineer who can appreciate a nice design enhansement.