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I am returning my car back to stock and since I have the exhaust, heads, intake, etc. off already, I figured I would pull the block and have it freshed up.
Questions:
Can I pull the motor from the top without dropping the rear, torque tube, trans etc.?
I am also wanting to replace the clutch while the motor is out. Once again, can I do this without actually dropping trans and all the other things attached.?
I am returning my car back to stock and since I have the exhaust, heads, intake, etc. off already, I figured I would pull the block and have it freshed up.
Questions:
Can I pull the motor from the top without dropping the rear, torque tube, trans etc.?
I am also wanting to replace the clutch while the motor is out. Once again, can I do this without actually dropping trans and all the other things attached.?
Thank you for your time and help.!
J.R.
Yes you can pull the motor from the top. Either way, you have to pull the drivetrain back to get to the clutch, which will facilitate the engine removal. You really need to get a service manual so you know exactly what you are doing.
So far I don't see what problems I going to run into. I have the bell housing bolts off, motor mounts unbolted etc.. The only thing I am really concerned with is getting the fly wheel bolts off.
Anything else I should be affraid of.? Are getting the fly wheels bolts of going to be impossible.?
Out the top, no problem. Depending on how much you're dismantling it, you can lower the engine and cradle a little to get at the bellhousing bolts. You can leave the bellhousing/torque tube where it is, and wiggle the engine fwd. and up. I wonder how many home mechanics actually have the equipment to pull it out from the bottom?
You have to drop the cradle. The further you drop it the better. To drop the cradle you will have to disconnect the upper a arms and lower shock mount. Also disconnect the brake lines from the frame. If you drop the cradle far enough you don't even need to remove the steering rack from the cradle. I've done it twice. Second time was easier. With two people working we had the motor out within three hours. That included jacking it up.
I've never pulled the motor out through the bottom, but having done it recently out the top, I can't imagine how it could be easier out the bottom. This is by far the easiest car to pull the motor from that I've worked on (probably because you know from the start that you have to remove a bunch of stuff and drop the cradle, so you don't even screw around with trying to "make it work" some other way).
I pulled the entire drivetrain, rear first, so it was super easy to yank the motor. I plan on reinstalling in reverse order (engine, then drivetrain).
I pulled my engine out of the top 1 month ago. Put the car on jack stands all the way around with the front ones under the factory jacking location behind the front wheels. Remove the front wheels. Unbolt the upper control arms and lower bolts on the shocks. remove the brake line retainer bolt in the wheel well but leave the brake line connected. Put a floor jack under the cross member on the cradle and remove the 4 nuts. Lower the cradle to about the bottom of the studs but not beyond. Remove the torque tube bolts from the bell housing. (a lot easier than removing the bellhousing bolts from the engine) Disconnect the quick release from the hydraulic clutch and remove the motor mount bolts. Remove the intake and coil pack assemblies, wiring plugs, and fuel line, and pull it right out. It is very easy this way.
Last edited by Blown427conv; Jul 29, 2009 at 01:40 PM.