remote clutch bleeder install questions.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 333
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remote clutch bleeder install questions.
I want to put this remote bleeder on without having to drop the drivetrain. If i remove the exhaust and tq tube shield, is it possible? I have read that it's a PITA but doable. Any hints from you guys that have attempted/ done it?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,798
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From: It's true money can't buy happiness, but it is more comfortable crying in a Corvette than on a bicyc
St. Jude Donor '13
Personally I'd wait until you replace the clutch. Use the Ranger method to swap the fluid in the mean time.
I know this isn't what you asked but what you wish to attempt will be difficult, if not impossible.
I know this isn't what you asked but what you wish to attempt will be difficult, if not impossible.
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Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 10,649
Likes: 31
From: Central Florida
I've installed a remote bleeder on my Z06s the first time a clutch replacement was done. Once installed, I never have used the remote. Easier and quicker to swap from the reservoir. And if you keep the fluid clean, there's no advantage to the remote.
Ranger
Ranger
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Vancouver Washington
AAAARRRRGGGG! RANGER, I've been using your method since I first heard of it and so far I've only had minor clutch problems on the track car. But I always figured a remote bleeder along with your method would be the way to go when the time came for a new clutch. Don't you think there is a least a small benefit of bleeding/exchanging the slave fluid along with the reservoir fluid? Especially for cars that are tracked heavily. If not, I'll save my money.
:
Race Director
Joined: May 2004
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From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
I've never really understood how swapping fluid in the resevoir is ever going to make a difference at the slave cylinder. Just seems like you need to bleed it from the end before you're really going to get clean fluid throughout. I'm sure it helps a lot to do it that way and is def better than nothing, though.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 10,649
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From: Central Florida
I've never really understood how swapping fluid in the resevoir is ever going to make a difference at the slave cylinder. Just seems like you need to bleed it from the end before you're really going to get clean fluid throughout. I'm sure it helps a lot to do it that way and is def better than nothing, though.
----------------------------------------
How the Clutch Hydraulics Work
----------------------------------------
It’s always a good idea to go to the source document for a definitive description of the operation of the clutch hydraulics. In this case the Corvette Service Manual, Volume 3, page 7-360, and I quote:
The clutch hydraulic system consists of a master cylinder and an actuator cylinder.
When pressure is applied to the clutch pedal (pedal depressed), the pushrod contacts the plunger and pushes it down the bore of the master cylinder.
In the first 0.8 mm (0.031 in) of movement, the recuperation seal closes the port to the fluid reservoir tank, and as the plunger continues to move down the bore of the cylinder, the fluid is forced through the outlet line to the actuator cylinder mounted to the driveline support assembly.
As fluid is pushed down the pipe from the master cylinder, this in turn forces the piston in the actuator cylinder outward.
As the actuator cylinder moves forward, it forces the release bearing to disengage the clutch pressure plate from the clutch disc.
On the return stroke (pedal released), the plunger moves back as a result of the return pressure of the clutch.
Fluid returns to the master cylinder and the final movement of the plunger opens the port to the fluid reservoir, allowing an unrestricted flow between system and reservoir….
Close Quote. There you have if from the source.
There is free flow of fluid between the reservoir, master cylinder and clutch actuator (so-called slave). The flow distributes the bad component (clutch dust) throughout the system. Every time you swap the fluid in the reservoir, you replace 33-40 precent of the corrupt fluid. Do that ten times with pedal pumps and driving in between and you'll clean even the nastiest fluid. Once the fluid is clean, repeat one-three swaps each time clutch dust is infused (color change).
In addition, you want the agitation to bring accumulated crud into suspension and distribute it throughout the fluid. That doesn't happen with a simple bleed.
Ranger
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 10,649
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From: Central Florida
AAAARRRRGGGG! RANGER, I've been using your method since I first heard of it and so far I've only had minor clutch problems on the track car. But I always figured a remote bleeder along with your method would be the way to go when the time came for a new clutch. Don't you think there is a least a small benefit of bleeding/exchanging the slave fluid along with the reservoir fluid? Especially for cars that are tracked heavily. If not, I'll save my money.
:I was starting each day with pristine clutch fluid. The between-session refreshes via the reservoir kept the pedal normal and obviated the need to bleed. I'm not against a bleeders; have put them on my cars for the next owner. I just don't use them. I use the reservoir method instead.
Ranger
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,904
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From: Vancouver Washington
I've only got about 150 laps on a road course in a C5Z and C6Z. But I was driving pretty hard 2-3-4 gears in play up and down. My clutch remained normal so long as I swapped the reservoir with fresh fluid between sessions. Using that approach I stayed ahead of the infusion of clutch dust that naturally occurs on high-rpm up- and down-shifts.
I was starting each day with pristine clutch fluid. The between-session refreshes via the reservoir kept the pedal normal and obviated the need to bleed. I'm not against a bleeders; have put them on my cars for the next owner. I just don't use them. I use the reservoir method instead.
Ranger
I was starting each day with pristine clutch fluid. The between-session refreshes via the reservoir kept the pedal normal and obviated the need to bleed. I'm not against a bleeders; have put them on my cars for the next owner. I just don't use them. I use the reservoir method instead.
Ranger
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 333
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my lil rubber boot thingy looks different from the one in the video, it doesn't collapse like that one does either. Anywho, i pumped new fluid through the system and the clutch pedal hasn't been sticking lately.. so kudos.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 10,649
Likes: 31
From: Central Florida
You know the fluid is clean when it remains clear (not cloudy) when you check it immediately after a drive.
Ranger
