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Visually, how can you tell the difference between "heavy-duty" output shafts and "standard" output shafts (i.e dimensional difference, stamping, etc., or just material difference)? I will likely be getting a set and I want to know if there is a way to make sure I get what I paid for.
Also, I have heard that only one of the shafts is typically a problem (the right one I believe). Does anyone have any experience with this? Do I only need one shaft?
The factory part has a machined groove right at the splined end of the left (long) shaft. The replacement shafts that have been produced thus far have not had that nd are larger diameter as well. Do a search and you should find some recent posts with pictures of both. You always break at the weakest link... Do you really want to replace just one? ;)
The factory part has a machined groove right at the splined end of the left (long) shaft. The replacement shafts that have been produced thus far have not had that nd are larger diameter as well. Do a search and you should find some recent posts with pictures of both. You always break at the weakest link... Do you really want to replace just one? ;)
Slight clarification: according to a previously posted pic of the VetteDr's hardened shaft, the center "tapering" of the shaft is still there. It's just a hardened material. (Topless, please correct me if I'm wrong!) The BPP shaft, on the other hand, is the same diameter the complete length of the shaft. Looks like a stronger piece to me. ;)
Joe, you are correct about the diameter differences. Ernie clearly feels it's necessary. Frankly I would be more worried about the groove though. The shafts do not appear to be breaking in the tapered region (i.e. the middle of the shaft.) I can't find your pic of the BPP shafts... Was the groove (not the groove for the c-clip at the extreme ends of the shaft) reproduced on their part or not?
Slight clarification: according to a previously posted pic of the VetteDr's hardened shaft, the center "tapering" of the shaft is still there. It's just a hardened material. (Topless, please correct me if I'm wrong!) The BPP shaft, on the other hand, is the same diameter the complete length of the shaft. Looks like a stronger piece to me. ;)
JC[/QUOTE]
I concur, for my money looks like the BPP is the stronger looking and proven unbreakable to date. :seeya
If we all start getting over 400RWHP, I wonder if this discussion won't come up a lot more. What is the hp rating for the stock shafts? With or without good traction?
... Was the groove (not the groove for the c-clip at the extreme ends of the shaft) reproduced on their part or not?
The BPP shaft does not taper AT ALL! The stock one (and VetteDoc's) tapers out/in at each end.
JC
When I broke my shaft :bb it broke in the same place as the one in the photo :eek: From what I have heard, everyone has broken the left shaft and not the right. Why is that? Is it important to change both shafts? or just the left one?
I have not heard of the left shaft breaking. I thought it was the right. I bought one from Ernie and have not installed it yet. I will check with him now to see if I am right.
Randy Goss :cheers:
I have not heard of the left shaft breaking. I thought it was the right. I bought one from Ernie and have not installed it yet. I will check with him now to see if I am right.
Item 22 is the left output shaft, 17 is the right. Every one that I have seen or heard about has broken in the same place as in the pic The One posted above, outboard of the center tapering. The factory shafts are not twisting in half in the middle, I don't know how big a selling point I think the larger diameter is.
Take another look at that pic. The BPP shaft IS in fact a larger diameter at the break point in question. ;)
Okay, I'll try one more time. :) There is a machined groove between the splined area and the *beginning* of the taper, the little collar looking area. I view the absence of this groove (is that what you're calling thicker?) to be a plus but not so much the thicker center part of the shaft. Said another way, I think the machining more than small diameter is the source of the problem.
To answer the original question, the BPP shaft is visibly distinguishable from the stock unit. The Vette Doctors' part may not be so east to spot.
If the cause of failure is not due just to the diameter of the shafts (and material yield strength), perhaps a better surface finish (15 RMS or better) or shot peening / bead blasting the shafts would help.
If someone could tell me what the diameter of the shafts are and the material they are made from (i.e. AISI 4140 etc. - preferably the minimum yield strength) it would be easy to calculate the maximum rear wheel torque and HP that the shafts could handle.
Torque (ft-lbs) = ((Shear Min Yield Strength (psi) * Polar Moment of Inertia (in^4)) / Shaft Radius (in)) / 12 (in/ft)
Ours is thicker at the break point and we do not taper down at the middle. Maybe it is a overkill but we to this date have not broken another shaft and do not wish to do so. You can find the pics of our shafts on our website. Go to online catalog then rear ends.
... There is a machined groove between the splined area and the *beginning* of the taper, the little collar looking area.
Topless, I think we are indeed speaking the same language here. :D But, I'm looking at my broken shaft, and after it tapers down (towards the outer end,) it is smooth and then the splines begin. I see no groove there. It is smooth where the break is. :confused:
Next time we meet up I'll have it with me for inspection. :crazy: