questions about shock installation
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
From: Avon Ohio
questions about shock installation
I'm installing a set of these shocks on my '02 z51 coupe.
||--Genuine GM 2008 C6 Z06 Shocks--||
10313647 – Z06 Front Shocks
25819268 – Z06 Rear Shocks
On the front shocks I am using the old nut, cupped washer and upper rubber bushing.
Should the upper bushing be replaced with a new one?
Should I use the old lower rubber bushing or the new one that comes with the new shock?
Anything to worry about on the rear shocks?
thanks
||--Genuine GM 2008 C6 Z06 Shocks--||
10313647 – Z06 Front Shocks
25819268 – Z06 Rear Shocks
On the front shocks I am using the old nut, cupped washer and upper rubber bushing.
Should the upper bushing be replaced with a new one?
Should I use the old lower rubber bushing or the new one that comes with the new shock?
Anything to worry about on the rear shocks?
thanks
Last edited by ST-rider; Aug 25, 2009 at 11:27 PM. Reason: figured out the lock nut problem
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 5
From: Holly, Michigan
Maybe these will help:
http://www.corvettedreams.com/bilstein-i.pdf
http://fuzzydiceracing.com/test.htm
http://www.corvettedreams.com/bilstein-i.pdf
http://fuzzydiceracing.com/test.htm
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,983
Likes: 393
From: Stoney Creek Ontario
Maybe these will help:
http://www.corvettedreams.com/bilstein-i.pdf
http://fuzzydiceracing.com/test.htm
http://www.corvettedreams.com/bilstein-i.pdf
http://fuzzydiceracing.com/test.htm
try the fuzzy dice racing thread - real good...
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 5
From: Holly, Michigan
I just remembered: Remove the washer tank, and the overflow tank for better access to the top of the shaft...The tank hoses do not need to be removed, just be careful when you set them aside as they may drip/leak if tilted too much...
Racer
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
From: Tampa FL
I followed the fuzzydice instructions. Worked great. Don't use cheap zip ties!
Only problem I had - when putting on the new rears, I snapped the lower shock bolt on one side! I ended up having to run around town to find a replacement. It's supposed to be torqued to 162ft/lbs - Mine snapped at about 150ft/lbs of pressure. Not pleasant, so be careful.
Including the time spent driving around town, this took me about 3.5 hours from gathering tools to completely done.
Huh? I didn't remove any tanks. Granted it's been a couple of years, but I don't remember thinking anything was in the way while I was doing it.
Only problem I had - when putting on the new rears, I snapped the lower shock bolt on one side! I ended up having to run around town to find a replacement. It's supposed to be torqued to 162ft/lbs - Mine snapped at about 150ft/lbs of pressure. Not pleasant, so be careful.
Including the time spent driving around town, this took me about 3.5 hours from gathering tools to completely done.
Huh? I didn't remove any tanks. Granted it's been a couple of years, but I don't remember thinking anything was in the way while I was doing it.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,333
Likes: 32
From: cruising between USA and Canada... SAVE THE WAVE!
...
just did my fronts.
Put '04 z06 shock to replace the OEM '98 base shocks.
2hrs, all in, on the ramps, off the ramps.
Not sure what the whole zip-tie situation is, but I didn't use any.
If you simply push the shock up, right after you've removed the rubber sleeve on the upper mount hole, it'll slide out one side.
Takes a bit of muscle but it works and was pleased in the end how easy it is to work on these cars.
Put '04 z06 shock to replace the OEM '98 base shocks.
2hrs, all in, on the ramps, off the ramps.
Not sure what the whole zip-tie situation is, but I didn't use any.
If you simply push the shock up, right after you've removed the rubber sleeve on the upper mount hole, it'll slide out one side.
Takes a bit of muscle but it works and was pleased in the end how easy it is to work on these cars.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 587
Likes: 18
From: Tampa FL
shocks
Ok, I'm testing some prototype bushings on the upper shock mounts, 01 Z06. I have pulled mine several times and can do it quickly. Fronts are easiest if you remove the upper A-arm bolts (4 alignment washer are captured). Just remember to support the lower A-arm with a jack and then lower slowly. Upper shock nut can be reached in the wheel well. No tanks to move or deal with.
For the rears I remove the tie-rod to allow the wheel to pivot more and rear shocks come out easy. Be careful with the wire to the wheel speed sensors front and rear. Safety first so jack stands and good jacks are considered mandatory!!!
Joel
For the rears I remove the tie-rod to allow the wheel to pivot more and rear shocks come out easy. Be careful with the wire to the wheel speed sensors front and rear. Safety first so jack stands and good jacks are considered mandatory!!!
Joel
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 5
From: Holly, Michigan
I mentioned removing the tanks because the Bilstein shocks require an Allen key to hold the shaft while tightening the top nut...
Removing the tanks takes (literally) a minute, and makes accessing the top of the shock's shaft very easy...
I agree that it's not necessary, but it makes it easier. Also the OP was having trouble holding the shaft, so I remembered pulling the tanks, and thought it may make a difference...
Removing the tanks takes (literally) a minute, and makes accessing the top of the shock's shaft very easy...
I agree that it's not necessary, but it makes it easier. Also the OP was having trouble holding the shaft, so I remembered pulling the tanks, and thought it may make a difference...
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Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 21
From: Orlando Florida
Maybe these will help:
http://fuzzydiceracing.com/test.htm
http://fuzzydiceracing.com/test.htm
Going to go with the C6 Z06 shocks. I read that those might raise the ride height some so I might lower the car on stock bolts just a little bit to compensate.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 193
Likes: 4
From: Houston TX
If the lower shock bolt broke at 150 ft-lbs I would suspect that the bolt was already damaged. I would hate to be driving and have a bolt like that let loose. Maybe you were lucky that it broke when it did??
Moving the coolant overflow bottle and window washer bottle out of the way (no need to disconnect anything) provides clear access to the top of the shock. As my father always told me, if it is in your way - remove it. The window washer bottle will leak some fluid if you move it above the cowling (you see some liquid coming out of those nipples) so it must be flowing back thru the wipers(??)
Moving the coolant overflow bottle and window washer bottle out of the way (no need to disconnect anything) provides clear access to the top of the shock. As my father always told me, if it is in your way - remove it. The window washer bottle will leak some fluid if you move it above the cowling (you see some liquid coming out of those nipples) so it must be flowing back thru the wipers(??)
Pro
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 578
Likes: 1
From: Dallas TX
It is easy, I used a web clamp (Pony web furniture clamp) to hold the fronts shorter and put them in. I also did not bother to break loose the rear control arm, it really isn't that hard to just manuever the shock out once it is completely loose.
On torque, there seems to be some discussion in another thread about what the proper torque is, complete with scanned service manual pages, etc, blah blah... Long story short is that 165 might be too much and might have been superceded by 107(?) Long story short, check either online (try autozone's website) in a service manual, etc before performing this operation
You might also search for McRats replacement write-up, and enjoy watching the beers as the jobs goes on....
-Ed
