Kooks Longtube Install
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 780
Likes: 0
From: Aquadale Speed Shop NC
Kooks Longtube Install
Everything came out fine, i have removed the steering shaft, alt, starter, valve covers, plugs, jacked up the motor and I honestly believe these header WILL NOT go in the provided space!!! Any one who has won this battle please tell me if there is something I'm missing, does the air conditioning ling need to come off the pass. side?? it seems to be all thats holding it, and the drivers side just seems impossible from either side.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
You my friend, from what i have heard, have the hardest long tubes to install. They must be the 1 7/8 "? From the posts that I've seen in the past, your going to have to loosen your motor mounts and shift the motor to one side to make room to install. I installed LG long tube Pro's. 1 3/4". I didn't have to shift the motor, but I did need to raise it a little. Good luck.
Last edited by bumble-z; Jun 6, 2010 at 10:32 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 780
Likes: 0
From: Aquadale Speed Shop NC
thats how its looking, they are the full 1 7/8 race header with 3'' o/f pipe, maybe instead of jacking up the entire motor ill try one side at a time, or try to get it up and moved over for them slip in.
when you talk of loosen up the motor mounts, i removed the nut from the top, but looks like that will be a b**** to get back on, i supposed there is a way to loosen them on the bottom?
when you talk of loosen up the motor mounts, i removed the nut from the top, but looks like that will be a b**** to get back on, i supposed there is a way to loosen them on the bottom?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 17
From: Near Jacksonville Fl.
Completely remove the bottom nut on the motor mount on the side your working on.
Just loosen the nut on the other side then jack the engine as high as you can without breaking the manifold on the firewall, then pry the engine to the opposite side and wiggle the header in from the top.
Just when you think that bas%&rd won't ever go in it'll just fall in!
Repeat on the other side. then grab a 12 pack cause you deserve it!
Does it sound like I put mine on?
Just loosen the nut on the other side then jack the engine as high as you can without breaking the manifold on the firewall, then pry the engine to the opposite side and wiggle the header in from the top.
Just when you think that bas%&rd won't ever go in it'll just fall in!
Repeat on the other side. then grab a 12 pack cause you deserve it!
Does it sound like I put mine on?
AMP Racing
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,753
Likes: 587
From: Washington TWP NJ
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2017 C5 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12
When I put mine on, I ran into the same problem.
We removed both engine mount bolts and jacked the engine up on the side we were putting the header into. Then we let it down and jacked up the other side.
We found jacking in the middle and lifting the whole motor would not work.
Once we did that, it all worked fine.
We removed both engine mount bolts and jacked the engine up on the side we were putting the header into. Then we let it down and jacked up the other side.
We found jacking in the middle and lifting the whole motor would not work.
Once we did that, it all worked fine.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 652
Likes: 16
From: Upton MA
as I recall when I installed my 1 7/8" Kooks, I have an LS3 in a 03 Z06.
I needed to remove the oil filter for the drivers side. Also loosened the motor mount bolt.
I was thinking about this a littlte more and I remember having these on my LS6 also, Tight fit to get them in, but they did go in with loosening the motor mount.
I needed to remove the oil filter for the drivers side. Also loosened the motor mount bolt.
I was thinking about this a littlte more and I remember having these on my LS6 also, Tight fit to get them in, but they did go in with loosening the motor mount.
Last edited by glennd; Aug 31, 2009 at 12:07 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 780
Likes: 0
From: Aquadale Speed Shop NC
I'll try raising one side at a time tonight, I had to walk away last night before the custom body work with a prybar began
I have a feeling when its done and i once agian wax my buddies notchback with his sbf 427 it will be worth it
I have a feeling when its done and i once agian wax my buddies notchback with his sbf 427 it will be worth it
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Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,871
Likes: 0
From: Arlington Texas, originally from San Angelo, TX
Yeah man just relax and take a deep breath. I have the 1 7/8" stepped to 2" version, so I feel your pain and then some. Jacking up the engine is a must.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 780
Likes: 0
From: Aquadale Speed Shop NC
well, the passenger side went in with little effort after jacking up that side, the drivers side.... not so much, i've pulled the oil filter, altenator, and jacked it up as far it will go, its actually lifting the car (probly bad), and still just want go from the bottom or top! its looking like if I took the brake booster or alt. bracket off it would slip in but I really just dont feel like going through all that if there is another way. ANY OTHER NEW IDEAS WOULD BE GREAT, I'M THINKING OF TORCHING MAYBE?
AMP Racing
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,753
Likes: 587
From: Washington TWP NJ
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2017 C5 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12
My driver's side went in from the top. Removed oil filter, altenator, stearing shaft, and valve cover. No need to remove alt. bracket though. Jacking up that side worked for me.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Canonsburg PA
Take off the alternator bracket if you can. It's a pain because there is that one bolt you can only get about 1/12 turn at a time. But it's easier than trying to shove the header in with the bracket on. The way they are shaped, the 1 7/8 hit the oil pan, frame, and alt bracket at the same time.
My brother did a set recently and found it was easier to drop the subframe and put them in from the bottom. lol.
My brother did a set recently and found it was easier to drop the subframe and put them in from the bottom. lol.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 780
Likes: 0
From: Aquadale Speed Shop NC
JUST AN UPDATE, I HAVE BEATEN THE DRIVER SIDE , talked to kooks, they told me to read the instruction which came with the headers, as you know it, when all else fails, RTFI! I got my persuasion bar back out and while having it jacked up rock it a few good time and she fell right in, I almost messed myself.
Now I've heat wrapped my starter and reinstalled it, put the front valence back on after the AIR pump delete and quit there until I get a new oil and water temp sending units which hopefully NAPA stocks.
Thanks for the all the advice, hopefully soon I'll hear it roar again, only with a slightly smaller pulley for the vortech and a tune in the near future!
, talked to kooks, they told me to read the instruction which came with the headers, as you know it, when all else fails, RTFI! I got my persuasion bar back out and while having it jacked up rock it a few good time and she fell right in, I almost messed myself.Now I've heat wrapped my starter and reinstalled it, put the front valence back on after the AIR pump delete and quit there until I get a new oil and water temp sending units which hopefully NAPA stocks.
Thanks for the all the advice, hopefully soon I'll hear it roar again, only with a slightly smaller pulley for the vortech and a tune in the near future!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 17
From: Near Jacksonville Fl.
JUST AN UPDATE, I HAVE BEATEN THE DRIVER SIDE , talked to kooks, they told me to read the instruction which came with the headers, as you know it, when all else fails, RTFI! I got my persuasion bar back out and while having it jacked up rock it a few good time and she fell right in, I almost messed myself.
Now I've heat wrapped my starter and reinstalled it, put the front valence back on after the AIR pump delete and quit there until I get a new oil and water temp sending units which hopefully NAPA stocks.
Thanks for the all the advice, hopefully soon I'll hear it roar again, only with a slightly smaller pulley for the vortech and a tune in the near future!
, talked to kooks, they told me to read the instruction which came with the headers, as you know it, when all else fails, RTFI! I got my persuasion bar back out and while having it jacked up rock it a few good time and she fell right in, I almost messed myself.Now I've heat wrapped my starter and reinstalled it, put the front valence back on after the AIR pump delete and quit there until I get a new oil and water temp sending units which hopefully NAPA stocks.
Thanks for the all the advice, hopefully soon I'll hear it roar again, only with a slightly smaller pulley for the vortech and a tune in the near future!
Now "I told you so!"