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Spark Plug Change-All but #7

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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 06:54 PM
  #1  
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From: Woodforest
Default Spark Plug Change-All but #7

Ok, so I really would like to kick the guy in the @ss who designed the plug wire setup.....

Changed the plugs this weekend. Followed the advice and had a new set of plug wires handy. Good thing too, as I damaged 4 out of the 7 I changed. The plugs were easy, it was getting off the wires that sucked. I could not get to #7 (Brake Booster and company would not allow my big old hands down there or any tool I could find in my chest).

So, I'm driving on 7 new plugs and wires, and 1 that has 50K on it. Car runs great, better than prior to the changeout, seems more peppy and smooth. All 7 plugs looked good, nice tan, but all came out at around .050. Seems like a wide gap considering I went back in with Iridiums gapped at .040.

Anyone see a problem with this, or have any good suggestions on how to get #7 out of there shy of removing the booster?

Thanks.
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 06:59 PM
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Come at it from the front. Stand facing the motor in front of the drivers side tire, reach back with your right arm in the gap between the brake booster and manifold. I have a line lock hanging that takes up a little space and can get in there no problem.

And quit complaining until you've done plugs/wires on an LT1 f-body!!!!!
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 07:14 PM
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Yep, I've done an LT1-F body, had a Camaro. It was a real pain too. Had to get to some from below if I remember correctly.

I about tried standing on my head to get onto that plug wire. I was afraid that I would break it, and not be able to get it off. Would have been really screwed then.

Any of those plug boot puller tools work?
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 07:43 PM
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Remove the two screws the fasten the AIR tube to the exhaust manifold and move the tubing out of the way. Should give you decent access to #7. I used a flex head ratchet.
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 07:48 PM
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Take 3/4" conduit about 12" to 18" long, flated the end and cut out the end to fit the recess in the metal boot
I made one the get the wires off of a 3.8 liter Buick and it work like a charm and have used it on my C5
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 09:37 PM
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I changed my plugs 2 weeks ago. On number 7, I pushed the metal shield down toward the spark plug to expose as much of the silicone boot as possible (I did this with all the wires) and then used a pliers to rotate the boot clockwise and counterclockwise about 90 degrees. After doing this a few times, I reached in with the my left hand and crammed it under the exposed end of the boot and pushed it up with the tips of my index and middle fingers while reaching down with my right hand and grabbing the end of the boot with my index and middle fingers (like grabbing somebody's nose) and wiggle-pulling the freaking thing off. This took repeated attempts and about 15-20 minutes. Just keep working the b-tch.

When installing the new plug, be careful not to drop the extension-socket/plug. I placed the new plug in the sparkplug socket and then used two 1 inch extensions to hold and rotate the socket to thread the plug (thats all the tooling that will fit and still align with the hole in the working space - I could not fit the socket with a three inch extension). Not much tool to grip as the plug approaches the spark plug hole
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 09:40 PM
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Flexshaft FTW!!!!

Either that, or a whole lot of u-joints, extensions and cursing.
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