Always used the correct gaskets for the task. Only use RTV if the service manual calls for it specifically, or there is a TSB for it's use.
Intake gasket or permatex?
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Burning Brakes
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From: Andreas Pennsylvania
Intake gasket or permatex?
I am doing the oil pressure switch swap, and was wondering what you were using. I see some permatex are safe for fuel now....are you using this or staying with stock gaskets? My car currently has no gasket. Someone used grey RTV on it. Let me know what you think. Thanks.
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
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Burning Brakes
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From: Andreas Pennsylvania
Thanks guys. That is what I was thinking. I ordered a gasket set and it should be in tomorrow morning. I am dying to get this car back on the road. The weather has been perfect. 
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From: Dyer, IN
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Burning Brakes
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From: Andreas Pennsylvania
Let me ask you guys this. Do you put in the gaskets dry, or do you use a little RTV to get them to stick in the manifold. I've got the manifold pretty clean but there are little traces here and there. I have no idea how to get it perfectly clean. Also do you need any RTV any where else, or is this as simple as put them in and put back together. I hope this oil pressure switch lasts, what a pain in the butt.
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From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
Why would someone use Silicone on the manifold? There is "NO" need ever to use silicone on our manifolds!
Use the stock O-Ring style gaskets and nothing else! Snap some pics if you could od the RTV - please!
we can use it a a "NOT TO DO!" - be carefult not to bung the slots up when you are removing the RTV Silicone
Thanks,Matt
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
A little dielectric grease on them won't hurt, but definitely don't use any RTV.
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let me ask you guys this. Do you put in the gaskets dry, or do you use a little rtv to get them to stick in the manifold. I've got the manifold pretty clean but there are little traces here and there. I have no idea how to get it perfectly clean. Also do you need any rtv any where else, or is this as simple as put them in and put back together. I hope this oil pressure switch lasts, what a pain in the butt.
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Burning Brakes
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From: Andreas Pennsylvania
Ok guys, put the new gaskets in and yes no RTV required. The gaskets stay in fine by themselves. I was wondering something though. How the HELL do you get that little straw in the boot on the back of the manifold. I can barely see it, and I sure as hell can't reach back there. Is it really important, and what does it do? It's bad enough hooking the line for the brake booster, but that thing is impossible! Thanks for all the help. Sorry I didn't take shots of the RTV before removing. I only have little piles around the car I could take pics of.
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Ok guys, put the new gaskets in and yes no RTV required. The gaskets stay in fine by themselves. I was wondering something though. How the HELL do you get that little straw in the boot on the back of the manifold. I can barely see it, and I sure as hell can't reach back there. Is it really important, and what does it do? It's bad enough hooking the line for the brake booster, but that thing is impossible! Thanks for all the help. Sorry I didn't take shots of the RTV before removing. I only have little piles around the car I could take pics of.
Go to the auto parts store, buy a package of the 1/8" nylon vacuum tubing (which is what it is) and also buy the rubber tubing splice. The rubber splice can be either a straight splice or a 90 degree splice, your choice. They are usually on or near the same display and are sold under the "Motormite" or "Dorman" (same company) brand name and the packages are purple and black and say: "Vacu-Tite". Note: when cutting off a piece of tubing, cut slowly, using a razor blade or Xacto knife, so as not to collapse or "smush" (technical term) the tubing. No glue is necessary, but if you want to use a drop or two of contact cement before inserting the tubing into the splice, it probably wouldn't hurt. Just be careful to NOT get any glue into the tubing itself.
HTH
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From: Official Dirty Dozen Member
If you want your HVAC to work normally, you WILL connect that little "straw" as you call it. Simply make an extension. Three or four inches should be sufficient.
Go to the auto parts store, buy a package of the 1/8" nylon vacuum tubing (which is what it is) and also buy the rubber tubing splice. The rubber splice can be either a straight splice or a 90 degree splice, your choice. They are usually on or near the same display and are sold under the "Motormite" or "Dorman" (same company) brand name and the packages are purple and black and say: "Vacu-Tite". Note: when cutting off a piece of tubing, cut slowly, using a razor blade or Xacto knife, so as not to collapse or "smush" (technical term) the tubing. No glue is necessary, but if you want to use a drop or two of contact cement before inserting the tubing into the splice, it probably wouldn't hurt. Just be careful to NOT get any glue into the tubing itself.
HTH
Go to the auto parts store, buy a package of the 1/8" nylon vacuum tubing (which is what it is) and also buy the rubber tubing splice. The rubber splice can be either a straight splice or a 90 degree splice, your choice. They are usually on or near the same display and are sold under the "Motormite" or "Dorman" (same company) brand name and the packages are purple and black and say: "Vacu-Tite". Note: when cutting off a piece of tubing, cut slowly, using a razor blade or Xacto knife, so as not to collapse or "smush" (technical term) the tubing. No glue is necessary, but if you want to use a drop or two of contact cement before inserting the tubing into the splice, it probably wouldn't hurt. Just be careful to NOT get any glue into the tubing itself.
HTH
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I used 1/4" vacuum line hose (about 4" long) and a 1/4"x1/4" straight barbed tubing connector.
Connect the vacuum hose to the manifold, and plug the barbed connector into the existing rubber boot.
The brake booster hose connection is made easy if you disconnect the vacuum hose right at the brake booster, before you connect it to the manifold. This will give you the needed slack to make the manifold connection.
Connect the vacuum hose to the manifold, and plug the barbed connector into the existing rubber boot.
The brake booster hose connection is made easy if you disconnect the vacuum hose right at the brake booster, before you connect it to the manifold. This will give you the needed slack to make the manifold connection.
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Burning Brakes
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From: Andreas Pennsylvania
Thanks for everything guys. I got everything back together and running. It seems to be running well, I have to take it out for a quick run, though.
Luckily, my wife has small hands and she was able to get the HVAC tube in the rubber boot and then I slid the manifold all the way back. Hopefully it stayed in place. What would I notice if it did not stay in place? One more question for you guys. I have my EBCM (abs controller) out for repair. Would that throw a reduced engine power message up? I am getting that info on the screen now, but like I said I don't have the EBCM hooked up. Thanks for everything, this sight ROCKS!
Luckily, my wife has small hands and she was able to get the HVAC tube in the rubber boot and then I slid the manifold all the way back. Hopefully it stayed in place. What would I notice if it did not stay in place? One more question for you guys. I have my EBCM (abs controller) out for repair. Would that throw a reduced engine power message up? I am getting that info on the screen now, but like I said I don't have the EBCM hooked up. Thanks for everything, this sight ROCKS!